I call it tactical because I used some PIMP Weaver ***** scope rings and a schwiggitty Weaver base. I'm only estimating the 700lm b/c Mfgr's always over rate these...yet I'm running this at a full 2.8amps instead of the crappy amperage that the orig. MTE was spitting out.
I've learned alot since November when I decided to replace the Nitehawk Raptor.
-Incandescent lights requre 3x the current to achieve similar lighting.
-Direct drive is okay for LED's...but has its pitfalls
-You can't be lazy if you want to build a decent one.
-I have an illness...this crap if fun!!
I decided to hack the MTE SSC P7 flashlight up for this project so I'd have a good compliment to the MagicShine on my helmet. I don't have a mill or a lathe...so I needed a good host for the emitter that looked decent and fit my needs. I also...just like to tinker.
I learned "the hard way" that high output LED's are low voltage / high amperage. (but not too high) With the Seoul Semiconductor P7 emitter, you need to try to keep a constant voltage around 3.7v. You can run low amperage for good run time and low light / high amperage for the opposite. (with my incandescent's...I'd +/- voltage to give it more/less output.
Someone told me that I could "direct drive" the P7 with 4 lithium ion cells in parallel w/o hurting it. WRONG!!! I burned one up. You either need to drive it off one lithium ion cell, or use a circuit board to limit the voltage and current that you're sending the emitter. You can do it several ways, but I found some super-cheap boards ($3ea) that are 3.7-4.2v input / output, so I decided to do a 4x 18650 lithium ion cell pack in parallel wired through a decent switch to the boards. I got the boards from Hoffman Amplifiers.
Here's a wiring diagram:
I decided to just do a straight 2.8amp setup instead of a 2-stage setup. I don't see any reason to run it on 1.4amps if I have a 4-cell pack.
Here's an example of the wiring...I didn't use the white switch pictured. We'll get to that:
1x 1.4amp board:
Adding the second board to give it a full 2.8amps:
Here's the P7 on the other side of the heatsink:
I hacked the MTE SSC P7 light about 4-5mm behind the lamp head. I bought a "cable gland", connectors, and trailtech switch from Battery Space.