Would a non-ramped chainring help?
07-07-10, 08:10 PM
#1
Senior Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Oct 2007
Location: Waterloo, ONT
Posts: 1,417
Bikes: Road: Trek 1.5 (2007). Mountain: Santa Cruz Chameleon (2008). Beater: Peugeot Recorde du Monde (1850)
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 2 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 0 Times
in
0 Posts
Would a non-ramped chainring help?
Hey guys. Gonna bother you with another question.
I run a 1x9 setup. It used to be 3x9. I have the 32 ring up front that came with the bike (granny and titan gear removed). I have a bashring on it now, and use my FD as a chain guide.
When I'm in the 34 or other large cog at the back, I sometimes drop the chain, always inside.
Ideally, I'd like to removed the FD and just run a nice and tidy 1x9 setup. I am wondering if a non-ramped ring would help me out here. I was reading up on Sheldon Brown's 2 cents on ramped rings, and I came across this:
"Ramped/pinned chainrings generally give improved shifting when moving from smaller to larger chainrings. The ramps and pins are always located on the side that faces the next smaller chainring. Ramps and pins are useless on the smallest chainring of a crankset, so they are normally found only on the outer rings."
Source: https://www.sheldonbrown.com/gloss_ra-e.html
It's interesting that it improves shifting up the gears, and yet ramps are not found on the smallest ring, but are on the largest?
Anyways, what do you think?
Thanks!
I run a 1x9 setup. It used to be 3x9. I have the 32 ring up front that came with the bike (granny and titan gear removed). I have a bashring on it now, and use my FD as a chain guide.
When I'm in the 34 or other large cog at the back, I sometimes drop the chain, always inside.
Ideally, I'd like to removed the FD and just run a nice and tidy 1x9 setup. I am wondering if a non-ramped ring would help me out here. I was reading up on Sheldon Brown's 2 cents on ramped rings, and I came across this:
"Ramped/pinned chainrings generally give improved shifting when moving from smaller to larger chainrings. The ramps and pins are always located on the side that faces the next smaller chainring. Ramps and pins are useless on the smallest chainring of a crankset, so they are normally found only on the outer rings."
Source: https://www.sheldonbrown.com/gloss_ra-e.html
It's interesting that it improves shifting up the gears, and yet ramps are not found on the smallest ring, but are on the largest?
Anyways, what do you think?
Thanks!
07-07-10, 09:50 PM
#2
Senior Member
Join Date: Sep 2006
Posts: 1,195
Bikes: Kona Cinder Cone, Sun EZ-3 AX
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 0 Times
in
0 Posts
It's interesting that it improves shifting up the gears, and yet ramps are not found on the smallest ring, but are on the largest?
07-07-10, 10:05 PM
#3
Senior Member
Join Date: Sep 2005
Posts: 1,959
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 2 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 2 Times
in
2 Posts
Hey guys. Gonna bother you with another question.
I run a 1x9 setup. It used to be 3x9. I have the 32 ring up front that came with the bike (granny and titan gear removed). I have a bashring on it now, and use my FD as a chain guide.
When I'm in the 34 or other large cog at the back, I sometimes drop the chain, always inside.
Ideally, I'd like to removed the FD and just run a nice and tidy 1x9 setup. I am wondering if a non-ramped ring would help me out here. I was reading up on Sheldon Brown's 2 cents on ramped rings, and I came across this:
"Ramped/pinned chainrings generally give improved shifting when moving from smaller to larger chainrings. The ramps and pins are always located on the side that faces the next smaller chainring. Ramps and pins are useless on the smallest chainring of a crankset, so they are normally found only on the outer rings."
Source: https://www.sheldonbrown.com/gloss_ra-e.html
It's interesting that it improves shifting up the gears, and yet ramps are not found on the smallest ring, but are on the largest?
Anyways, what do you think?
Thanks!
I run a 1x9 setup. It used to be 3x9. I have the 32 ring up front that came with the bike (granny and titan gear removed). I have a bashring on it now, and use my FD as a chain guide.
When I'm in the 34 or other large cog at the back, I sometimes drop the chain, always inside.
Ideally, I'd like to removed the FD and just run a nice and tidy 1x9 setup. I am wondering if a non-ramped ring would help me out here. I was reading up on Sheldon Brown's 2 cents on ramped rings, and I came across this:
"Ramped/pinned chainrings generally give improved shifting when moving from smaller to larger chainrings. The ramps and pins are always located on the side that faces the next smaller chainring. Ramps and pins are useless on the smallest chainring of a crankset, so they are normally found only on the outer rings."
Source: https://www.sheldonbrown.com/gloss_ra-e.html
It's interesting that it improves shifting up the gears, and yet ramps are not found on the smallest ring, but are on the largest?
Anyways, what do you think?
Thanks!
__________________
fun facts: Psychopaths have trouble understanding abstract concepts.
"Incompetent individuals, compared with their more competent peers, will dramatically overestimate their ability and performance relative to objective criteria."
fun facts: Psychopaths have trouble understanding abstract concepts.
"Incompetent individuals, compared with their more competent peers, will dramatically overestimate their ability and performance relative to objective criteria."
07-08-10, 08:20 AM
#4
Senior Member
How's your chain length? See if you can move your chain ring to the left. They make downhill guides that are like a bashguard on both sides of the chainring to keep it from faling off.
07-09-10, 10:26 AM
#5
all-weather commuter
Join Date: Mar 2009
Location: Rochester, NY
Posts: 315
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 2 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 0 Times
in
0 Posts
Put the granny ring back on to catch the chain when it falls off, then you can put it back at your convenience. (:
07-09-10, 11:27 AM
#6
Te mortuo heres tibi sim?
Join Date: Aug 2004
Location: East coast
Posts: 3,486
Bikes: hardtail, squishy, fixed roadie, fixed crosser
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 0 Times
in
0 Posts
Yes. Even better, is this.
https://www.gvtc.com/~ngear/whatis.html
Ditch the front mech for one of those. Replace your ramped ring with an unramped when it dies.
https://www.gvtc.com/~ngear/whatis.html
Ditch the front mech for one of those. Replace your ramped ring with an unramped when it dies.
07-09-10, 12:00 PM
#7
Senior Member
Join Date: Apr 2007
Location: Munising, Michigan, USA
Posts: 4,131
Bikes: Priority 600, Priority Continuum, Devinci Dexter
Mentioned: 14 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 685 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 55 Times
in
37 Posts
I run 1x9 on one of my bikes. I run a Race Face downhill ring, which has no shaping of the teeth. It's just a plain old ring.
I also run an MRP 1.x chainguide. I would have just locked down a front derailleur, but the bike was not designed for one, and did not have clearance for one.
I briefly experimented running without a guide, but even with a plain old ring it is too easy for me to nudge the chain off with just a small bit of finger pressure. So I put on the guide and have been happy ever since.
I also run an MRP 1.x chainguide. I would have just locked down a front derailleur, but the bike was not designed for one, and did not have clearance for one.
I briefly experimented running without a guide, but even with a plain old ring it is too easy for me to nudge the chain off with just a small bit of finger pressure. So I put on the guide and have been happy ever since.
