cryptid01

Covered earlier in the thread. The dude's a scarecrow already. Please try and keep up.

roccobike

mattm0805, I looked on the Specialized website, they don't list a 2010 Rockhopper Sport Disk. Do you have a Hardrock SPort Disc? That lines up with the price you paid. I went down the path you're looking at on an 05 Rockhopper. I trimmed around 3.5 lbs off the bike for a total investment of around $300, but I did all the work myself and I have no problem buying used parts. The four items I addressed are, tires, wheels (rims), fork and crank. The biggest bang was also the most expensive. I changed out the heavy Manitou Axle fork for a used Fox F-100 at a cost of around $230. I picked up a Shimano Hollowtech crank locally really cheap and changed out the Truvativ crank. I noticed your bike has a Suntour SR crank, I'd certainly look at something in a lightweigt, stiffer crank for your bike. I swapped out the heavy Alex rims on my bike for some lighter, stronger Mavic rims. Keep in mind, my bike is a V brake bike, not disc (but that will change soon). Finally, I replaced the Specialized tires with folding tires, Panaracer on the rear and an oversized Michelin on the front.
Hope some of this helps. If you do your own work, and if you buy good, used equipment, you can lower the weight of the bike and improve the quality of the components for not a lot of $$$.

mattm0805

hahaha!


I know I'm on the lower end of bikes and for $1000-1500 range the bikes get lighter/better. I think I'll rock this bike for a good while, but I know I need to just purchase a new bike eventually.

bradtx

mattm0805, I think that's how it usually works. The first couple of bikes (regardless of type) can be great bikes, but just not quite what one is looking for. It took three mountain bikes (and a new fork) for me to get what I wanted. I just regret selling the second one as it would've been handy to have around a few times.

Brad

ghettocruiser

RaceKing SuperSonics set up tubeless.

Plus, you can rest a bit while changing all your resultant flat tires, so when you are riding you will feel faster.

mtb_man_14

Mainly tires. Im putting a rigid carbon fork on my bike in the spring. That saves me 3 pounds haha. I'm not dogging your bike but... it may be wiser to save up for a lighter bike with better components. Trust me. Its cheaper. Not nearly as fun though. I love buying stuff from my lbs and they love me for buying it so it works out. Back on topic... Tires and can save a pound while upgrading for about $100. The tires should last a while as long as you dont do just pavment and skid on them. I plan on getting some xc monkeylite riser bars to save some weight and help with some shock. They are about 80.

kh777

If you use 25.4 diameter, they are onsale $46 at Jenson
https://www.jensonusa.com/store/produ...r+Bar+254.aspx

mattm0805

Just picked up a Manitou 2:00 Minute air fork for $100. I rode on it today and freaking loved like. Its literally half the weight of the previous fork. great deal!

roccobike

Way to go. Good used parts are a great, cost effective way to upgrade.

fuji86

After getting smoked the other day on my road bike by a trio of riders, I found I'd need to lose a considerable amount of rider weight. Riding a mid 80's bike, I might lose a little on the bike by swapping out a 30T on the inner most gear and putting a 12T on it to get more GI. Since it has a 2.5 lb u-lock on it, I can leave that at home. I know I'm talking about a road bike, but the same could apply to an atb/mtb. Is the bike the 24 speed ? Rear cassette could be changed out to a 7 gear cassette or fewer. I know the initial cost might be higher, but sell the items you replace and depending upon the bargains you find, that could be a lower cost method. I have gears I never use on the road and atb that I have. Sometimes, a downgrade turns out as an upgrade ?

phoebeisis

I used to have weight weenie tendencies- have Ohaus triple beam scale-weighed everything-bikes and motorcycles.
Like others said
1) Tires- Kenda Kozmik lite 395 grams- yes the weight is correct- 390-400 grams actual weight( companies used to lie about weights-now claimed weights are generally correct)
An average wire bead tire is 600+ grams-some wider downhill ones are extremely heavy-avoid wire beads.A set of light tires save roughly a lb-(454 grams)-cost on ebay maybe $40 or so-best bang for buck.
2)Tubes-"lite' versions save maybe 50 grams each-cost maybe $12 for 2 on ebay.
3) Cranksets-my older Shimano 572 crankset is 620 grams-cheapo cranksets with steel rings are 800- 900 grams-cost maybe $50 ebay.
4) XTR hub wheels with "good rims" will save about 400 grams(for wheelset) over "average" wheels-cost $300+ on ebay-same story for Hugi 240 hub wheels-cost slightly higher-Hugi 240 are no better than XTR
5)Seats- depends on what you like-can save a fair amount if you have a heavy seat, but I doubt your OEM saddle is really heavy- besides comfort is worth plenty of weight.
6)CF seatpost-save 50-70 grams-maybe $60 used on Ebay.
7)XRT rear derailleur-saves maybe 60 grams over "standard" derailleur(say an LX)- $70+ on ebay.
8) Forks- generally a light "air sprung" suspension fork is 1 lb less than a "good" steel spring fork(3 lbs vs 4 lbs)-like you found out-good deals on ebay.

Tires, wheels, tubes crankset, fork, are most cost effective. You can always get your $$ out of used good quality wheels, so they are worth the $$.
You can always put good wheels on a "new" bike, so it makes sense to get good ,light wheels.If you get a fork with a too long steerer-leave it too long and put in spacers.This way it will transfer to a new bike- or be easier to sell.

mattm0805

Thanks for the info Phoebeisis...very helpful! How is the performance of the Kenda Kozmik lites on the trails?? The tread looks a little less aggressive, have you noticed any unnecessary slippage??

Johnny Law

now your speakin my language!

samburger

I'll take out the ricer & the muscle with my buddy's 140hp gixxer 600. Hell, I could probably take 'em with an SV650.

Johnny Law

bleehhhh.... mucsle gets chicks. And there is nothing that beats the sound of a 40+ year old v8.

crazzywolfie

any modified v8 usually sounds good. i like the modified v8 in my 91 dodge d150. it might make its way into my 81 dodge d150.

Johnny Law

but see thats the thing about old schools, they dont need to be modified.

i have a 72 Cutlass Supreme that my grandpa gave me for my graduation present from high school (i cried), that is completely stock (100%), and has 42k original miles on it. That thing roars louder and stronger (with it stock single exhaust) then any moded car, and EXPECIALY any rice wagon!

samburger

There are sounds in this world that far surpass the sound of any vehicle. Unfortunately, your religion prohibits hearing any of them in person before marriage

Johnny Law

you got that right ma main main! proud of it! i put the Abs in Abstinace!

samburger

But does it never bother you that the wonderful sound has nothing to back it up when compared to the smooth buzz of a gixxer, or the loud rumble of a Sportster 1200? You know me, & you know that I love muscle cars. Give me a '72 Nova with a 383 stroker with a blower poppin' out of the hood & I'll probably faint. But the discovery of motorcycles is on a-whole-'nother level. It's a better ride, faster, easier to work on, & just a mind-blowing experience for me. Not to mention WAY cheaper. If I can have a vehicle that competes easily with a Ferrari for $10k new & that Ienjoy driving more than any car, or have to spend well into the $100k's for the same specs on four wheels, it's an easy pick for me.

samburger

They should make a religious commercial & have a clip of you saying that in it. That would be awesome.

Johnny Law

with big old drawn on abs (not that i would need drawn on abs)

that would be funny

Johnny Law

i agree with you 100% they are an awesome thing, and i definatly know it doesnt take much motorcycle to whip up most cars, i just love old cars! they are beautiful! and i never really say that word unless directed towards my main ho.

mudtread

Hi, Matt. Every part that is moving will make the most drastic effect, starting with the biggest ones: wheels and tires: the cheapest being the tires alone. then, you can try to convert to tubeless using your current wheels. There are many ways, but I found one easy and most of all... cheap! homemade conversion method in a Mountain Bike Action issue from 2010. Sorry, can`t recall which issue but it involves using Stan`s sealant and 20" inner tube + new tires. Conversion should cost around $100 w. tires. This conversion will greatly reduce the weight of your bike but will improve the ride sooooooooooooo much!!! Same if you go for a new set of wheel. A new wheelset costing around $400-$600 should bring weight down drastically, too and you can still make them tubeless. Next thing to look at would be the crankarms and rings. Then pedals, then saddle. But if you reach that point, I think you should consider selling your bike and buy a new, lighter one.

Noobtastic

Single speed conversion?