low end starter bikes
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low end starter bikes
I just made it out MBing for the 1st time last weekend and i'm semi hooked. I dig the adrenaline rush of "am I gonna fall there?" and then "am I gonna fall there?". anyways, I have a bunch of other hobbies and like to travel, so I'm looking a getting a bike as cheap as possible, with the possibility of upgrading in the future. I'm really looking to buy at the 250-350 price range. some of the bikes i've looked at so far are m40 and hardrock, but i would be interested in Giant, Trek, Fisher as well. i'm gonna ride mostly cross-country with a few jumps. any advice to weight and components and future upgrading that wouldn't be polishing a turd would be greatly appreciated.
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Originally Posted by 808rstar
I just made it out MBing for the 1st time last weekend and i'm semi hooked. I dig the adrenaline rush of "am I gonna fall there?" and then "am I gonna fall there?". anyways, I have a bunch of other hobbies and like to travel, so I'm looking a getting a bike as cheap as possible, with the possibility of upgrading in the future. I'm really looking to buy at the 250-350 price range. some of the bikes i've looked at so far are m40 and hardrock, but i would be interested in Giant, Trek, Fisher as well. i'm gonna ride mostly cross-country with a few jumps. any advice to weight and components and future upgrading that wouldn't be polishing a turd would be greatly appreciated.
FWIW, I have two Trek 4300's that i have put thousands of miles on in the last year. These bikes are very reliable and comptetitive with other bikes in the price range. They work fine for me. I i were to get into racing someone with an equal engine, they would beat me if they had a lighter, more expensive bike.
I don't have any intentions on doing that however.
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Ranger,
thanks for your advice. and you're most likely right, i'm probably comparing apples to apples here. i guess what i'm looking for is something i can get a good amount of use from. i should also maybe be a little more specific. i think the key thing i need to focus on is frame weight. i guess the next two important things to me would be derailers and shocks. not sure which order. ranger, you recommend the trek 4300, which is one i would definetly consider, how do you think the weight and components compare to other bikes in that price range. thanks again.
thanks for your advice. and you're most likely right, i'm probably comparing apples to apples here. i guess what i'm looking for is something i can get a good amount of use from. i should also maybe be a little more specific. i think the key thing i need to focus on is frame weight. i guess the next two important things to me would be derailers and shocks. not sure which order. ranger, you recommend the trek 4300, which is one i would definetly consider, how do you think the weight and components compare to other bikes in that price range. thanks again.
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i think the most important thing for you to do is focus on finding a Local Bike Shop LBS you can trust. For that price you may want to see if you can score a good deal on upcoming year end blowout sales that happen late winter/early spring. But going back to my original point, getting knowledgable TRUSTWORTHY people to help get you a frame that's going to fit you (super important), and giving the best bike for you for how much you want to spend.
Like you say you don't want to polish a turd well hard tail frames are pretty sturdy and can last quite a while if you don't get too crazy. So i wouldn't overly worry too much about the upgrading choices you make, because you can most likely swap those upgrades over to the next bike you buy. That is unless the new bike has better components....
You were talking about importance of wieght... Well in mt. biking you have to factor in as just if not more important the importance of strength and durability. As an example i'll use XTR cassettes vs. LX cassettes... with one you have lightwieght but bends when you sneeze on em with the other you have tough useful will handle mud sticks rocks dependable.... All the component knowledge will come with time, and your perception will adapt to where you want to save the wieght instead of strength where you want a compromise of both or whatever depending on where your leaning as far as what and where you ride.
But ultimately get out and have a blast. Buying a lower end intro bike will give you small problems and headaches for sure, but by getting out and riding it and breaking stuff, you should learn better what you want in a bike. If you find your still stoked in a year or two that means your hopelessly hooked like all of us losers that browse these forums.
Like you say you don't want to polish a turd well hard tail frames are pretty sturdy and can last quite a while if you don't get too crazy. So i wouldn't overly worry too much about the upgrading choices you make, because you can most likely swap those upgrades over to the next bike you buy. That is unless the new bike has better components....
You were talking about importance of wieght... Well in mt. biking you have to factor in as just if not more important the importance of strength and durability. As an example i'll use XTR cassettes vs. LX cassettes... with one you have lightwieght but bends when you sneeze on em with the other you have tough useful will handle mud sticks rocks dependable.... All the component knowledge will come with time, and your perception will adapt to where you want to save the wieght instead of strength where you want a compromise of both or whatever depending on where your leaning as far as what and where you ride.
But ultimately get out and have a blast. Buying a lower end intro bike will give you small problems and headaches for sure, but by getting out and riding it and breaking stuff, you should learn better what you want in a bike. If you find your still stoked in a year or two that means your hopelessly hooked like all of us losers that browse these forums.