Advertise on Bikeforums.net



User Tag List

Results 1 to 14 of 14
  1. #1
    Fred at large
    Join Date
    Aug 2008
    Location
    Roads of Ventura County Ca
    Posts
    640
    Mentioned
    0 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)

    Disk replacement time

    I need to replace my XT brake disks as they are at minimum thickness. Currently I'm running the "resin only" disks with resin pads but I'm thinking about changing to something else.

    Any recommendations? Mostly I'm only climbing with descending the same hill/trail on the return at moderate speeds.
    I am Fred, hear me slurp my Grande Mocha.

    ***
    2006 60cm Orbea Orca with 2009 Rival
    1985 55cm Nishiki lugged steel with Shimano parts and Rigida wheels (C&V for sale)

    1987 Haro Extreme (undermount rear brake) mtn bike with Shimano LX and Rock Shox fork
    2009 Kona Hei-Hei 2-9

  2. #2
    ed
    ed is offline
    . ed's Avatar
    Join Date
    Oct 2005
    Location
    The Summit of Lee
    My Bikes
    Hecklah
    Posts
    10,932
    Mentioned
    1 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)
    1. What's "minimum thickness"?
    2. What don't you like about them that you want to change them...change for the sake of change?
    3. What size? How bout trying the next size up so you don't grind them to "minimum thickness" so quickly?


    I don't think there's anything wrong with what ya got...my size suggestion sounds good, if I say so myself.

  3. #3
    Fool O' crap sscyco's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jul 2002
    Location
    spokane
    My Bikes
    Specialized Tricross, Allez steel, Transition, 2009 Bighit 3, Lightspeed Owl Hollow and Kitsuma - and a couple others
    Posts
    1,217
    Mentioned
    0 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)
    Quote Originally Posted by chelboed View Post
    3. What size? How bout trying the next size up
    Do you really think SIZE matters?

  4. #4
    Fred at large
    Join Date
    Aug 2008
    Location
    Roads of Ventura County Ca
    Posts
    640
    Mentioned
    0 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)
    Quote Originally Posted by chelboed View Post
    1. What's "minimum thickness"?
    2. What don't you like about them that you want to change them...change for the sake of change?
    3. What size? How bout trying the next size up so you don't grind them to "minimum thickness" so quickly?


    I don't think there's anything wrong with what ya got...my size suggestion sounds good, if I say so myself.
    There is no "next size up" in this context. That would relate to rotor diameter (ie: going from 160 to 180) and not thickness of the braking surface.

    As to that, the minimum cross-sectional thickness of the rotor brake swept area is .15" If the rotor is thinner than that it should be replaced (just like on your car. Too thin = worn out). At this point I'm just wondering if there is a benefit to be had from going to metal pads and a different rotor. Shimano has several different types. Perhaps an aftermarket rotor/pad setup would give better erformance on those long downhills where the brake heats up a bit after a few miles.

    Plus, I have a slightly warped rear rotor which should be replaced anyway. And, it's time to change the pads.

    So, are there other options I should be thinking about other than just staying with the resin pads?
    I am Fred, hear me slurp my Grande Mocha.

    ***
    2006 60cm Orbea Orca with 2009 Rival
    1985 55cm Nishiki lugged steel with Shimano parts and Rigida wheels (C&V for sale)

    1987 Haro Extreme (undermount rear brake) mtn bike with Shimano LX and Rock Shox fork
    2009 Kona Hei-Hei 2-9

  5. #5
    ed
    ed is offline
    . ed's Avatar
    Join Date
    Oct 2005
    Location
    The Summit of Lee
    My Bikes
    Hecklah
    Posts
    10,932
    Mentioned
    1 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)
    Well no shizzle, numbnutz.

    The larger diameter will help you stop equally well (better actually) with less rotor wear because the friction is spread over a longer brake path before it overlaps itself. If you're wearing out 160's with normal trail riding...buy some 185's and they'll last you longer.


    Good lord.



    I like EBC green pads with normal old steel rotors.

  6. #6
    Fred at large
    Join Date
    Aug 2008
    Location
    Roads of Ventura County Ca
    Posts
    640
    Mentioned
    0 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)
    OK, fine. You win whatever internet macho contest you're playing here. All I wanted were ideas on what might be better than what I have now.

    Thanks for the steel rotor / organic pad recommendation.
    I am Fred, hear me slurp my Grande Mocha.

    ***
    2006 60cm Orbea Orca with 2009 Rival
    1985 55cm Nishiki lugged steel with Shimano parts and Rigida wheels (C&V for sale)

    1987 Haro Extreme (undermount rear brake) mtn bike with Shimano LX and Rock Shox fork
    2009 Kona Hei-Hei 2-9

  7. #7
    ed
    ed is offline
    . ed's Avatar
    Join Date
    Oct 2005
    Location
    The Summit of Lee
    My Bikes
    Hecklah
    Posts
    10,932
    Mentioned
    1 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)
    If you don't want me to throw obvious in your face...don't do the same to me.

  8. #8
    Gravity hunter dminor's Avatar
    Join Date
    Oct 2004
    Location
    The 509
    My Bikes
    1971 Suzuki TS125/ factory race kit/AHRMA-legal; 1969 Suzuki TS250/factory race kit; 1967 Suzuki K-15 Hillbilly Trail 80; 1977 Yamaha IT175; 1964 VanTech Scrambler racing frame
    Posts
    12,186
    Mentioned
    0 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)
    What I really want to know is: Why do people list their bikes as a sig, as if it is some sort of resume? Is that a road thing? Does a windy description after the year, make and model add points? Are others impressed/rebuffed/intimidated/nonplussed when they read them? Should we list our cars, trucks, houses, marital status, no. of kids too? Or should we just do it with stick-figure decals like soccer moms do on the back windows of their SUVs?

  9. #9
    Fool O' crap sscyco's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jul 2002
    Location
    spokane
    My Bikes
    Specialized Tricross, Allez steel, Transition, 2009 Bighit 3, Lightspeed Owl Hollow and Kitsuma - and a couple others
    Posts
    1,217
    Mentioned
    0 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)
    Na - stick with sponsors

  10. #10
    Senior Member
    Join Date
    Dec 2010
    Posts
    126
    Mentioned
    0 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)
    Quote Originally Posted by dminor View Post
    What I really want to know is: Why do people list their bikes as a sig, as if it is some sort of resume? Is that a road thing? Does a windy description after the year, make and model add points? Are others impressed/rebuffed/intimidated/nonplussed when they read them? Should we list our cars, trucks, houses, marital status, no. of kids too? Or should we just do it with stick-figure decals like soccer moms do on the back windows of their SUVs?
    LOL I often wonder about that to, seems a trend in all kinds of forums. cars, firearms, cameras, I bet if you went to a forum of Pez dispensers you would find it there. I was thinking something simple and to the point like "More S#$! than I know what to do with"

  11. #11
    ed
    ed is offline
    . ed's Avatar
    Join Date
    Oct 2005
    Location
    The Summit of Lee
    My Bikes
    Hecklah
    Posts
    10,932
    Mentioned
    1 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)
    Quote Originally Posted by sscyco View Post
    Do you really think SIZE matters?
    To tell ya honestly sscyco...it think it would be minimal at best, but worth a try. I have a 140 on the rear of my Komodo and it's def. wearing faster than my old 7" rotors. It's a little more drastic though.

  12. #12
    Fool O' crap sscyco's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jul 2002
    Location
    spokane
    My Bikes
    Specialized Tricross, Allez steel, Transition, 2009 Bighit 3, Lightspeed Owl Hollow and Kitsuma - and a couple others
    Posts
    1,217
    Mentioned
    0 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)
    ^^ I run 8" on the front of all my bikes - no reason not to - pads wear better and more control.

  13. #13
    Gravity hunter dminor's Avatar
    Join Date
    Oct 2004
    Location
    The 509
    My Bikes
    1971 Suzuki TS125/ factory race kit/AHRMA-legal; 1969 Suzuki TS250/factory race kit; 1967 Suzuki K-15 Hillbilly Trail 80; 1977 Yamaha IT175; 1964 VanTech Scrambler racing frame
    Posts
    12,186
    Mentioned
    0 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)
    Quote Originally Posted by sscyco View Post
    ^^ I run 8" on the front of all my bikes - no reason not to - pads wear better and more control.
    Liar!


  14. #14
    Fool O' crap sscyco's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jul 2002
    Location
    spokane
    My Bikes
    Specialized Tricross, Allez steel, Transition, 2009 Bighit 3, Lightspeed Owl Hollow and Kitsuma - and a couple others
    Posts
    1,217
    Mentioned
    0 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)
    ^^Ok, Ok - just the ones that need to slow down.....

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •