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  1. #1
    Riding like its 1990 thenomad's Avatar
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    holy crappy mechanic work! BB stuck and threads slammed, hope to fix it

    I picked up an '03 Hardrock Pro Disc and took it down to the frame today.
    Rear wheel out of true, left shifter not working and split cable housing are the knowns.

    Get to the bottom bracket and its stuck.
    Try all the usual tricks:
    Soak in PB blaster
    big wrench
    bigger wrench
    wrench in steel post and use frame to leverage it out
    Nothing yet. Busted a tooth off the Park tool.

    Time to get the 1/2" impact ***:
    Wail away on it and the non drive side finally loosens up!
    The drive side is worse. I had that impact on full for 30 seconds or more, then forward, reverse, it finally gives in after nearly hammering away the teeth on the BB. I used a 36" breaker bar to finish off the job!

    Holy crap, worst BB ever. Now the threads look worn and not sure if cross threading was the cause, if t were crossed that bad it would have taken incredible force to get it in. Could that be the factory?
    The threads feel "lower" than the leftover threads that were not in contact with the BB. Would a non-greased install and galvanic corrosion be the culprit?

    I'm going to have the LBS chase the threads and hopefully that will clean it up enough to give it a long life when "cared for".

    Any other suggestions?

    Grease those threads people!!!
    My blog about rides, bikes and builds: ridesgoneby.blogspot.com

  2. #2
    Whistler-bound dminor's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by thenomad View Post
    Would a non-greased install and galvanic corrosion be the culprit?
    That would be my guess - - coupled with probably left outside too much and no weep-hole in the bottom of the BB shell?

  3. #3
    Riding like its 1990 thenomad's Avatar
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    there is a weep hole in the shell and most of it looks in good shape, no real fading of parts due to sun bake. But it does have what looks like wear from a lock carried around the seatpost so it may have lived outside.

    Will be stripping the frame to a raw aluminum just for kicks, and then building it up shortly.
    My blog about rides, bikes and builds: ridesgoneby.blogspot.com

  4. #4
    Senior Member mechBgon's Avatar
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    Congrats on getting it out in the end Yeah, it's time well spent to pull those babies during assembly and plaster every available contact surface with grease. Some bike shop owners will let the assembler take those preventive extra steps, some will not. I bet your frame will be OK after the threads are chased, though.

  5. #5
    one less horse cryptid01's Avatar
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    Glad to hear I'm not the only one who uses impact tools on bikes!

  6. #6
    Custom User never's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by cryptid01 View Post
    Glad to hear I'm not the only one who uses impact tools on bikes!
    It's because you're too little and can't tighten/loosen anything with your own strength.

  7. #7
    Senior Member
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    When I was stripping a low end k2 frame, it took two people, and a 6 foot hockey stick taped to a breaker bar to get the bb off. So yes, it happens.

  8. #8
    Whistler-bound dminor's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by cryptid01 View Post
    Glad to hear I'm not the only one who uses impact tools on bikes!
    That's why BB tools are " drive, right?

  9. #9
    one less horse cryptid01's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by never View Post
    It's because you're too little and can't tighten/loosen anything with your own strength.
    My beard alone can generate over 100 ft/lbs of torque.

    Quote Originally Posted by dminor View Post
    That's why BB tools are " drive, right?
    True, although my favorite helper is an old ibis ti handlebar I have - fits perfectly over my 3/8 snappy ratchet handle.

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