How do you bunny hop?
#1
Senior Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Sep 2004
Posts: 105
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 0 Times
in
0 Posts
Any tips on bunny hopping. Seriously, I have a 28 inch vertical jump but I can't even get an inch off the ground on my bike. And yes I know they're two different things, it's just frustrating
#4
Work hard, Play hard
Join Date: Dec 2003
Location: San Diego, California
Posts: 2,596
Bikes: Cannondale super V 500, Bianchi Piaggio(hopefully getting a new road bike when I get some money)
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 0 Times
in
0 Posts
well I use clipless so I can "cheat" as far as bunny hopping goes. All I do is pull up on the handlebars and then pull up with my legs and my bike comes off the ground.
From what I read from other members with platforms you pull up on the handlebars and then push off really hard with your legs and your bike should pop up. Thats what i understand anyway, might not be correct.
oh and BTW, when I started out doing bunnyhops I practiced by putting a cup in the grass(I practiced at a local park) and then would ride back and forth, hopping over the cup. As you get better you can use bigger stuff like shoeboxes, stacks of bricks whatever.
From what I read from other members with platforms you pull up on the handlebars and then push off really hard with your legs and your bike should pop up. Thats what i understand anyway, might not be correct.
oh and BTW, when I started out doing bunnyhops I practiced by putting a cup in the grass(I practiced at a local park) and then would ride back and forth, hopping over the cup. As you get better you can use bigger stuff like shoeboxes, stacks of bricks whatever.
#5
mmm... chicken!
Join Date: Aug 2004
Posts: 668
Bikes: 04 Kona Blast
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 0 Times
in
0 Posts
do the search, you'll find a reference to the infamous site with the step-by-step video of these guys b-hopping on bmxs, learn on flats if possible - i cheat with toeclips myself but would prefer not to rely on them.
#7
Eschew Obfuscation!
Join Date: Oct 2004
Location: over here!
Posts: 591
Bikes: 2005 Rocky Mountain ETSX, Surly Crosscheck, 2000 Enduro Expert (sold), 1999 Rockhopper, 1984 Trek 520 (STOLEN-but recovered!), $7 rigid MTB from a police auction (broken, then stolen)
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 0 Times
in
0 Posts
https://www.biketrials.com/how-to/index.shtml#bunnyhop
This page has a lot of good information on how to do things the "correct" way...ie no toeclips or clipless pedals!
This page has a lot of good information on how to do things the "correct" way...ie no toeclips or clipless pedals!
#8
Wood Licker
Join Date: Apr 2002
Location: Whistler,BC
Posts: 16,966
Bikes: Trek Fuel EX 8 27.5 +, 2002 Transition Dirtbag, Kona Roast 2002
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 23 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 2 Times
in
2 Posts
with a 28" natural vert (in my bbal days I was around 32") once you get proper technique down you bunny hop should be huge....
I still can't do a technically perfect bunny hop...so I still can't jump much higher than 10 to 12"
I still can't do a technically perfect bunny hop...so I still can't jump much higher than 10 to 12"
#9
snow
Join Date: Sep 2004
Location: Henniker, USA
Posts: 794
Bikes: Rootbeer Bullit, stock......soon to be a transgold V10 w/shivers
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 0 Times
in
0 Posts
I can only j-hop like 6'' on my Bullit, if that.....on a BMX its easy to hop 2' +. Worst feeling ever........pulling the front up too high on a J-hop, taking youre feet of the pedals, getting your nuts caught, then smashing them on the ground.....and managing to only hop about 6'' while your nuts are being suspended
#10
Wood Licker
Join Date: Apr 2002
Location: Whistler,BC
Posts: 16,966
Bikes: Trek Fuel EX 8 27.5 +, 2002 Transition Dirtbag, Kona Roast 2002
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 23 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 2 Times
in
2 Posts
Thanks for the memories...I hjate that feeling. But now I have to learn how to bunny hop on a ht again. Got so used to a little cush...
#11
Holy o-o
Join Date: May 2004
Location: CT
Posts: 83
Bikes: FSRXC 04', Lemond Reno 05'
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 0 Times
in
0 Posts
Wear shin guards for the love of god, my shin is still pockmarked from a particularly nasty crash into my plastic wellgo's. Thank god there are no steel pins on it
#14
Work hard, Play hard
Join Date: Dec 2003
Location: San Diego, California
Posts: 2,596
Bikes: Cannondale super V 500, Bianchi Piaggio(hopefully getting a new road bike when I get some money)
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 0 Times
in
0 Posts
easiest is clipless or cages.
To learn how to do it properly use any platform pedal.
To learn how to do it properly use any platform pedal.
#15
la vache fantôme
Join Date: Aug 2004
Location: NH
Posts: 6,266
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 2 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 1 Time
in
1 Post
platform pedal, thast what i have. ALright thanks, if i want to jump like more then a foot do i need another kind? Im a fan of platform pedals, i have to ride this thing to school and back every day so all these things that need cleats and all are out of hte question
#16
Wood Licker
Join Date: Apr 2002
Location: Whistler,BC
Posts: 16,966
Bikes: Trek Fuel EX 8 27.5 +, 2002 Transition Dirtbag, Kona Roast 2002
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 23 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 2 Times
in
2 Posts
No....highest bunnyhops are by far held by flat riders...clipless for bunnyhops take away from technique...not help the height.
#18
mmm... chicken!
Join Date: Aug 2004
Posts: 668
Bikes: 04 Kona Blast
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 0 Times
in
0 Posts
flats are best for learning any kind of bike handling skill. any problems, just hop off the bike so it doesnt land on top of you. imo clips only really help you cheat only in the sense that you dont have to concentrate on jumping up while pointing your toes down (for grip) and maybe also for added strength in pulling up your rear wheel.
Mael's trying to say that ultimately technique is what gives you height. you can still have proper technique with clips, just that the tendency to "cheat" means you're less likely to learn proper technique.
Mael's trying to say that ultimately technique is what gives you height. you can still have proper technique with clips, just that the tendency to "cheat" means you're less likely to learn proper technique.
#20
mmm babaghanouj.
Join Date: Aug 2003
Location: toronto, canada.
Posts: 848
Bikes: 2003 norco fluid 3.0, 2016 Intense Tracer 275C Expert
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 8 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 0 Times
in
0 Posts
Originally Posted by roughrider
to bunny hop you put as much force into the pedals as u can and then when you pull up the front you should beable to lift the back with a bit of leaverage
#21
Senior Member
Join Date: Mar 2003
Location: Pittsburgh, PA
Posts: 315
Bikes: Moots CX, Redline CX
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 0 Times
in
0 Posts
Any tips on doing a manual? I've gotten to the point where I can lift my front tire, but can't seem to stay up there. Should I lower my seat? Push the bike under me more?
#22
mmm... chicken!
Join Date: Aug 2004
Posts: 668
Bikes: 04 Kona Blast
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 0 Times
in
0 Posts
Originally Posted by rasheed
than all you gotta do after is land .
#23
Devinci Rider
Join Date: Oct 2004
Location: B.C, Canada
Posts: 15
Bikes: Devinci Hucker
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 0 Times
in
0 Posts
Originally Posted by younghistorians
Any tips on doing a manual? I've gotten to the point where I can lift my front tire, but can't seem to stay up there. Should I lower my seat? Push the bike under me more?
the rest is just balance.
#24
Wood Licker
Join Date: Apr 2002
Location: Whistler,BC
Posts: 16,966
Bikes: Trek Fuel EX 8 27.5 +, 2002 Transition Dirtbag, Kona Roast 2002
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 23 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 2 Times
in
2 Posts
Pedal? Thats a wheelie not a manual.
LEarn your rear balance point. Lift the front end till you feel like you will loop out and tap the brake to bring the front down. Eventually with time you will learn to hump the bike to maintain the balance point without using the brakes.
LEarn your rear balance point. Lift the front end till you feel like you will loop out and tap the brake to bring the front down. Eventually with time you will learn to hump the bike to maintain the balance point without using the brakes.
#25
Wood Licker
Join Date: Apr 2002
Location: Whistler,BC
Posts: 16,966
Bikes: Trek Fuel EX 8 27.5 +, 2002 Transition Dirtbag, Kona Roast 2002
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 23 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 2 Times
in
2 Posts
DISCLAIMER: I'm not telling you this is the ONLY way to manual. It's MY way. If you don't like it, fine, but this is how I learned and improved. End of Disclaimer.
The key with the manual is leaning back AND down. When I learned manuals I used to do them standing pretty much straight. It both looked ugly and they didn't work very well.
Start by rolling along on the ground (flat and nice makes it easier). Roll along calmly with the pedals in lever with choco-foot first and set yourself up. Now you can choose do to one of the three things:
1. Pull the bars up
2. Pedal up into the manual (I do this most of the time)
3. Roll along and do the practice later (not recommended)
If you picked 1, you are simply going to roll along and pull hard on the bars and lean back. This is the hardest way, at least I think so. If you picked 2, like me, pedal back until your chocolate foot is on the highest point of the pedal revolution (12 o'clock). Now pedal hard until the front comes up. By the time the pedals are level (with choco-foot forward) you should be up. If you are not, add another pedal revolution.
When you have found your balance point, crouch down quite low and have your arms straight. Your legs should be slightly bent. Now pump the bike with the knees. This helps you to balance, and gives the bike a little bit of extra speed. It's easier if you over exaggerate the pumping.
The first thing you should learn is to manual WITHOUT the rear brake. Just practice and practice. You will have to jump off the bike a couple of times, but that is not a problem. Once you can manual a few yards, you can proceed to the more advanced technique.
Now it's time to learn how to use the rear brake in a manual. You pedal/pull up into the manual as usual, but now crouch down even more. You can lean back a little bit more too, if you think you were too high up when not using the brake. When you feel you are going to tip over backwards, stop pumping the bike with your legs instead of braking. If that doesn't help and you are REALLY falling backwards, feather the rear brake VERY LIGHTLY, and start pumping the bike underneath you again.
If you need more speed, try doing the manual in a small downhill piece of road. Too much and you will fall down, at least I did.
The manual is a hard trick, but very cool and nice to know. There are millions of things you can do with a manual. For example, manualing before a drop, or even after it if you are brave and trust your rear brake.
Falling is not an option, it's a fact. I've fallen over plenty of times when manualing. The thing is that if you bail a couple of times and get out of the crash unhurt, you are certainly boosting your confidence...
Manual Manual written by & © 2003 Robert Janson - www.CykelTrial.Net
Keep in mind that rear brake has this effect of suddenly working perfectly when you're wheelieing or manualing. That's because complete weight is on the rear wheel and the brake then BITES, so you have to feather it twice as gentle.
When you're rolling on two wheels, front brake matters more because centre of your balance moves forward while you brakes (due to intertia), and more weight on a wheel equals more braking efficiency
The key with the manual is leaning back AND down. When I learned manuals I used to do them standing pretty much straight. It both looked ugly and they didn't work very well.
Start by rolling along on the ground (flat and nice makes it easier). Roll along calmly with the pedals in lever with choco-foot first and set yourself up. Now you can choose do to one of the three things:
1. Pull the bars up
2. Pedal up into the manual (I do this most of the time)
3. Roll along and do the practice later (not recommended)
If you picked 1, you are simply going to roll along and pull hard on the bars and lean back. This is the hardest way, at least I think so. If you picked 2, like me, pedal back until your chocolate foot is on the highest point of the pedal revolution (12 o'clock). Now pedal hard until the front comes up. By the time the pedals are level (with choco-foot forward) you should be up. If you are not, add another pedal revolution.
When you have found your balance point, crouch down quite low and have your arms straight. Your legs should be slightly bent. Now pump the bike with the knees. This helps you to balance, and gives the bike a little bit of extra speed. It's easier if you over exaggerate the pumping.
The first thing you should learn is to manual WITHOUT the rear brake. Just practice and practice. You will have to jump off the bike a couple of times, but that is not a problem. Once you can manual a few yards, you can proceed to the more advanced technique.
Now it's time to learn how to use the rear brake in a manual. You pedal/pull up into the manual as usual, but now crouch down even more. You can lean back a little bit more too, if you think you were too high up when not using the brake. When you feel you are going to tip over backwards, stop pumping the bike with your legs instead of braking. If that doesn't help and you are REALLY falling backwards, feather the rear brake VERY LIGHTLY, and start pumping the bike underneath you again.
If you need more speed, try doing the manual in a small downhill piece of road. Too much and you will fall down, at least I did.
The manual is a hard trick, but very cool and nice to know. There are millions of things you can do with a manual. For example, manualing before a drop, or even after it if you are brave and trust your rear brake.
Falling is not an option, it's a fact. I've fallen over plenty of times when manualing. The thing is that if you bail a couple of times and get out of the crash unhurt, you are certainly boosting your confidence...
Manual Manual written by & © 2003 Robert Janson - www.CykelTrial.Net
Keep in mind that rear brake has this effect of suddenly working perfectly when you're wheelieing or manualing. That's because complete weight is on the rear wheel and the brake then BITES, so you have to feather it twice as gentle.
When you're rolling on two wheels, front brake matters more because centre of your balance moves forward while you brakes (due to intertia), and more weight on a wheel equals more braking efficiency
.