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Old 06-04-11, 04:46 PM   #1
bawolf88
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Crossing Logs

I've been mountain biking for a few years and road bmx a little when I was a kid. I can bunny hop, stoppie, wheelie and such (not to brag, just an attempt to explain my skill level). I do alright in most technical stuff. But, I still haven't quite figured out crossing some logs.

A lot of the trails I regular ride have logs anywhere from 6" to 1 1/2 feet in diameter. I ride off road motorcycles and normally loft the front wheel over logs and the skid plate will help the bike just glide over logs (even 2 feet in diameter). But thats not working so hot on my MTB. The teeth in my chainring always grab logs that are thicker than 6". That's sent me over the bars a few times or really jarred me.

Sometimes, I'd stall the front wheel on top of the log and put one foot on top of the log and pull the bike over, leaving one foot on the pedal. But, that's not working so well with clipless pedals.

So, what's the deal? How we approaching this stuff? Do I have to get off my bike and lift it over?
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Old 06-04-11, 05:26 PM   #2
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http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ZHDgrE7LCpE

lol ^^^ how not to cross a log

I usually try and bunny hop the smaller ones and just dismount for the big ones. Most trails around here have the section of the log you would be crossing cut out though(thank you trail maintainers).
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Old 06-06-11, 08:25 AM   #3
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Here in New England many of us run 2 rings and a bashguard. That helps a lot. Front wheel up and over with speed, pedal when bashguard/ rear wheel makes contact.
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Old 06-06-11, 10:25 AM   #4
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You can do a kind-of "rocking bunnyhop" type of thing. Say you can't clear the whole log with both wheels...bunnyhop up and follow the contour of the log with your motion. As you get over the log, push the bars forward/down and raise the rear end up. You'll land nose first, but that's fine for cleaning logs.
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Old 06-06-11, 11:33 AM   #5
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^^ kind of what Ed said..
If it is a low speed situation and i don't have enough speed to bunny hop - I wheelie, setting the front wheel on top of the log, then thrust the bike forward while bunny hopping (bending my legs to pick the rear wheel up), this puts the front tire past the log and the rear on top of it. I can get over most logs/rocks with this method.
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Old 06-06-11, 12:16 PM   #6
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If you can wheelie and bunny hop then you can clear big logs. Get your front wheel above the logs elevation, then hop off your back wheel to bring it up and over. If its a big log, my rear wheel will often hit it or land on it on the way down. Not a big deal with enough forward mo.
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Old 06-06-11, 01:05 PM   #7
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Sweet. Pretty sure I could pull that off if i put in some effort. Just didn't know if I was missing something.

The bash guard I'd love to know more about. I've seen people who have some sort of plastic guard that sticks out just past the chain rings that would seem to help them glide over logs a bit better. Is that what you mean? Is there one that you recommend? Or a place to buy them?
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Old 06-06-11, 02:58 PM   #8
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You'll land nose first, but that's fine for cleaning logs.
A gas pressure washer works well for that too.
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Old 06-06-11, 03:25 PM   #9
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^ haha... got 'em
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Old 06-06-11, 03:44 PM   #10
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A gas pressure washer works well for that too.
Can it peel bark? I have to build a log shed this year and your comment gave me an idea.
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Old 06-06-11, 03:45 PM   #11
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If you can wheelie and bunny hop then you can clear big logs. Get your front wheel above the logs elevation, then hop off your back wheel to bring it up and over. If its a big log, my rear wheel will often hit it or land on it on the way down. Not a big deal with enough forward mo.
Yep. To expand on this, for big logs or when going uphill, I wheelie or manual and try to place my front wheel as close to the top of the log as possible. If wheelieing into it, I like to give a quick ratchet backward to level my pedals. Then using this as a base, I hop/lunge forward and try and place the rear wheel in the same place the front wheel just left. Shift weight back, roll out, and ride away. Much faster and smoother this way as opposed to slamming your bash/chainring and grinding over. It's all in the timing. Happy practicing!

edit: I totally missed sscyco's post - just do what he said.

Last edited by cryptid01; 06-06-11 at 05:00 PM.
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Old 06-06-11, 03:48 PM   #12
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The bash guard I'd love to know more about. I've seen people who have some sort of plastic guard that sticks out just past the chain rings that would seem to help them glide over logs a bit better. Is that what you mean? Is there one that you recommend? Or a place to buy them?
The plastic thing you see is for people who wear long pants on a bike. A bash guard is metal - usually aluminum.
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Old 06-06-11, 03:54 PM   #13
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A bash guard is metal - usually aluminum.
err...except for what's likely the most popular bashring of all time, the e13 supercharger. Not to mention polycarbonate bashrings by MRP, gamut, et al.



Lately the bashring is less popular, as more folks use what's known as a taco.

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Old 06-06-11, 03:54 PM   #14
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Can it peel bark? I have to build a log shed this year and your comment gave me an idea.
This oughta do it - 5000psi, @5gpm


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Old 06-06-11, 04:00 PM   #15
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err...except for what's likely the most popular bashring of all time, the e13 supercharger. Not to mention polycarbonate bashrings by MRP, gamut, et al.
I stand corrected - or in this case sit corrected. I'm guessing that what you're talking about isn't what bawolf is seeing though.
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Old 06-06-11, 05:03 PM   #16
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Yeah, those aren't even close to what I was thinking of. Are a lot of people running those bash guards or tacos? Pros/Cons? Opinions on whether its worth it? Any that people particularly like or dislike?

I really like dealing with log obstacles and think I can be fairly successful with some good hopping and maneuvering, but could the guard still have some use? Perhaps when I inevitable come up short on some monster log while showing off in front of my buddies?
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Old 06-06-11, 05:10 PM   #17
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I just run Oregon chain instead of regular bicycle chain; makes short work of logs. Full-chisel doesn't have guard links, so kickback can be problematic. Wear your shin guards.
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Old 06-06-11, 07:54 PM   #18
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Old 06-06-11, 08:23 PM   #19
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Hey bawolf88, are you using Clipless pedals and Shoes? I assume that you are, but if you aren't...Clipless gives you a huge advantage to getting over logs just by pulling up the rear end of the bike once you bunny hop over.
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Old 06-07-11, 11:59 AM   #20
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Yeah, I'm using clipless. Just a little bit concerned about some of the bigger logs.
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Old 06-07-11, 03:23 PM   #21
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If you can't bunny-hop it, here is something smoother(learn this and you'll love it)...

Zap-tap to rear-wheel only(you just roll the rear-wheel off the opposite side of the log).

Failure means smashy of the cranks and this is probably not for the clipless types.
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Old 06-07-11, 07:30 PM   #22
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If you can't bunny-hop it, here is something smoother(learn this and you'll love it)...

Zap-tap to rear-wheel only(you just roll the rear-wheel off the opposite side of the log).

Failure means smashy of the cranks and this is probably not for the clipless types.
Didn't 01 already suggest this?
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Old 06-07-11, 07:32 PM   #23
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Didn't 01 already suggest this?
Not really, plus video > 01.
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Old 06-07-11, 07:41 PM   #24
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dang, I've actually utilized the zap tap on a lot of urban obstacles and never thought to apply it to logs. Easy enough.
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Old 06-07-11, 07:49 PM   #25
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Huh. Zap Tap is pretty natural I suppose, I've done it many a time without knowing it had a name. I thought it was just called "getting up there".
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