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Old 06-04-11, 10:02 PM   #1
crazyotte
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Lets talk rotors

What rotors are people oogling over nowadays? I want somethin beefy (I liked to look of Hope Moto V2 and XTRs are pretty thick). I really don't know what all else constitutes a decent disc. Don't care about weight.

I'm just tired of truing my badly bent 160, and the new fork's mounts only allow for a 185 anyways. I have BB7s, so the thickest that'll still fit between the pads is the goal. Stopping quick would be nice too, but I imagine most of that is dictated by the rest of the brake system.
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Old 06-04-11, 11:35 PM   #2
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Hayes v_cut get the job done for me.
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Old 06-05-11, 12:30 AM   #3
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Brake Authority rotors, hands down.

http://www.brake-authority.com/index_gb.html

I have 7 & 6 ('Aggressive' / 'Burly') on my DJ and am putting an 8" 'Aggressive' on the front of my 303R.

Carried by South Shore Bicycles (Jason Schippers - - Royal Racing) out of Colorado.
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Old 06-05-11, 12:52 AM   #4
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I've always used the rotors that come with the brakeset. The only exception was Avid wave rotors before they stopped making them and Magura Storm SLs since rotors don't come with the calipers.

I thought about getting Hope floating rotors but the cost/benefit ratio didn't do it for me. Other than bling, not much between the stock rotors.
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Old 06-05-11, 04:31 AM   #5
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Rotor thickness has very little to do with rigidity. Some rotors are sandwiches with a SS exterior bonded to an aluminum core. It gives slightly better heat disapation and is lighter. Combine that with a titanium rotor mount as on the XTR and you have something designed to shave weight more than resist bending.

It might make more sense to start with why and how you`re bending what you have now and what pad / rotor combination you have.
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Old 06-05-11, 08:07 AM   #6
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Ed and Doug - Reasons? Honestly, I just want something that will NOT bend. Bling is fine, I don't mind shellin out extra cash, if it performs at its pricepoint!

Burton - Very interesting rotor anatomy lesson, thanks. I have BB7 calipers / Clean Sweep rotors, and I honestly don't know about pads, I was hoping nobody'd ask. They're the ones that came stock, and as I've not had to replace them, I haven't researched pads beyond some confusing stuff about metallic/semi-metalic/resin pads.
I've been happy with the rotors, they perform well, but I, uh... fall over alot. I know nothing's indestructible, but I know theres stronger stuff out there.
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Old 06-05-11, 04:05 PM   #7
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Ed and Doug - Reasons? Honestly, I just want something that will NOT bend. Bling is fine, I don't mind shellin out extra cash, if it performs at its pricepoint!

Burton - Very interesting rotor anatomy lesson, thanks. I have BB7 calipers / Clean Sweep rotors, and I honestly don't know about pads, I was hoping nobody'd ask. They're the ones that came stock, and as I've not had to replace them, I haven't researched pads beyond some confusing stuff about metallic/semi-metalic/resin pads.
I've been happy with the rotors, they perform well, but I, uh... fall over alot. I know nothing's indestructible, but I know theres stronger stuff out there.
Those Avid (SRAM) BB-7`s are probably the best mechanical disk brake on the market and since you have a stock set-up that eliminates any compatability issues. The pads for those brakes are also used on Avid Jucy 5 and 7 hydraulic brakes too. All the components are strong and reasonably priced.

Hate to tell you, but any disk brake can be bent - easily if falling down is the cause. Suggest you pick up a tool for straightening rotors and maybe bring a spare rotor with you. Buying a more expensive rotor will just mean you`ll be straightening a more expensive rotor instead.

Work on form and maybe look up some lessons on what you`re tackling thats giving you issues - and resulting in bent rotors.
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Old 06-05-11, 10:53 PM   #8
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Another thing i'd imagine is worth considering is the fact that BB7 brakes are a single piston system, meaning they rely on the outboard actuating piston pushing (flexing) the rotor into the fixed inboard pad. So, if you get a thicker and/or stiffer rotor, it will require more force (squeeze of the lever) to get that rotor to flex and ultimately stop.... someone correct me if im wrong.
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Old 06-05-11, 11:06 PM   #9
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Reasons tomorrow, c. Late, long weekend. For the record, though, straightening is usually jus a matter of patience, a body hammer and a dead-flat machined surface like your table saw.
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Old 06-06-11, 07:07 AM   #10
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Ed and Rip Vanwinkle- Reasons? Honestly, I just want something that will NOT bend. Bling is fine, I don't mind shellin out extra cash, if it performs at its pricepoint!
The V-cut is the "anti-bling" rotor. The only reason I suggest it is b/c I haven't bent one. I don't view them as excessivley thick or tough...but I've never warped one. There is something to the BB's single sided pressure though. When setting them up, make sure you have the rotor as close to the dummy-side as possible w/o rubbing. When the acitive pad pushes the rotor against the dummy-pad, it won't bend it over quite so far.
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Old 06-06-11, 07:38 AM   #11
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I don't recall ever hearing of any rotor being marketed as tougher or more bend resistant. I've clanged some off rocks hard at speed and seen no deformation whatsoever, and I've tipped over at 2 mph and folded them like a lawn chair. Rotors are like tires or chains - they're wear items, so feel free to spend as much as you'd like, but realize that they're not going to last forever.
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Old 06-06-11, 10:28 AM   #12
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I think there'd be a market for a thicker rotor if it will kill some of the howl that one encounters with adverse conditions. You can only go "so thick" though before it won't clear the caliper. Though...my wife's Mazda makes a howling noise from the rear discs when they're damp...and those are 10 times thicker than you would be able to manage on a bike...so maybe it would be moot.

FFT
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Old 06-06-11, 11:54 AM   #13
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Rip VanWinkle indeed I had two acres of grass to mow and a yard of black dirt still in the pickup that was not going to unload itself. Had to pay the dues for playing other weekends.

OK, crazyotte, here we go: I will be entirely honest and say that I've never had an issue with the stock Hayes V rotors. As long as I've stuck religiously to Hayes' recommended bed-in procedure, them and the stock pads have always played nicely together and have rarely if ever given me any of that 'Hayes howl.'

I'll also admit that, since you asked, I took the opportunity to shill a new brand that I'm trying out (Brake Authority). So far I haven't had any negative issues with them. The 6" fixed and 7" semi-floating that I put on my DJ are doing what they're suppposed to. The pads bedded in to them quickly, despite the fact that I did NOT do a proper bed-in on them that time; and I like the concept of the semi-floating design, which is supposed to make them less susceptible to warp and pulsing and give more consistent pad contact.

As cryptid said, there's probably no rotor that is going to survive a direct strike; but I've kicked up my share of rocks in probably some of the most rock-strewn environments rideable and haven't bent one from doing it.

For comparison:

Stock Hayes rotors:

1.52mm thick
V6 = 114g
V8 = 204g

Brake Authority rotors:
1.8mm thick
6" 'Burly' = 95.5g
8" 'Agressive' = 159g
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Old 06-07-11, 08:04 AM   #14
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195# rider running Avid cleansweep G2's 160/160 Elixir CR's on my dual suspension and Ashima Origin8 160/160 with Juicy 7's on my hardtail. Ashima's are definitely light and haven't munched the pads as some claim they do...

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