29er top end speed
#1
Newbie
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jun 2011
Posts: 4
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 0 Times
in
0 Posts
29er top end speed
Newbie question I have a specialized 29er. I have been riding a lot on the road and would like to get more top end speed. Can I change the chainring to a higher tooth count without changing the chain size and will that get me the top end sped I need to keep up to a road bike.
#3
Senior Member
Join Date: Dec 2005
Location: Atlanta, GA
Posts: 1,223
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 0 Times
in
0 Posts
Adding a large chainring with more teeth might exceed the capacity of the front derailleur. Complete drivetrain info would help.
#4
Pint-Sized Gnar Shredder
Join Date: Nov 2007
Location: Somewhere between heaven and hell
Posts: 3,549
Bikes: '09 Jamis Komodo, '09 Mirraco Blend One, '08 Cervelo P2C, '08 Specialized Ruby Elite, '07 Yeti AS-R SL, '07 DMR Drone
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 0 Times
in
0 Posts
#5
Newbie
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jun 2011
Posts: 4
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 0 Times
in
0 Posts
29er top end speed
front der. shimano atlus 34.9mm, chaing ring 42 x 32 x 22, crankset shimano fc-m36108, cassette sram pg-830 11-32t Hope that helps.
#6
Newbie
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jun 2011
Posts: 4
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 0 Times
in
0 Posts
#7
Gone.
Join Date: May 2011
Posts: 509
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 0 Times
in
0 Posts
#8
Senior Member
Join Date: Jun 2011
Location: Buffalo, NY
Posts: 2,401
Bikes: 2012 Surly LHT, 1995 GT Outpost Trail
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 2 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 1 Time
in
1 Post
I kept going
#9
Gone.
Join Date: May 2011
Posts: 509
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 0 Times
in
0 Posts
Good for you, really, but the real roadies aren't toodling along at 20mph on the Amherst bike path. And it may be just me, but I find it very irritating when some random person latches onto my rear wheel and tries to get all competitive with me. If I don't feel like trying to drop them, I usually just slow down.
#10
Ninny
Join Date: Jan 2010
Location: The Gunks
Posts: 5,295
Mentioned: 53 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 686 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 1 Time
in
1 Post
As it is, you have about 110 gear-inches, which is similar to a typical road bike in the 2nd or 3rd highest gear (53/13). You could probably change your big chainring to a 44 and end up similar to a road bike in one gear higher (53/12), but you will probably need a new chain and you need to verify that your derailleur has the capacity. Your LBS should be able to answer those questions pretty easily.
Of course, the same rider with the same gears has to work a lot harder to push a mountain bike tire than a road bike tire, so all else being equal, giving yourself another gear is not going to let you keep up with a road bike, unless the road cyclist is doing a lot less work than you are.
Of course, the same rider with the same gears has to work a lot harder to push a mountain bike tire than a road bike tire, so all else being equal, giving yourself another gear is not going to let you keep up with a road bike, unless the road cyclist is doing a lot less work than you are.
#11
Newbie
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jun 2011
Posts: 4
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 0 Times
in
0 Posts
Thank You for the information, it is exactly what was I was looking for. Even though a newbie I ride 100 miles a week. A long ride on the weekend and short 10 mile sprints during the week. While new to the sport, I do know that a road bike is designed more for speed then a mountain bike. 700 tires versus 2.0 tires alone is a big deal. I ride on a combination of roads, bike paths, dirt and gravel during my travels. A road bike would not work for me. I don't want to commit to just roads either. I though more people would feel the same way but I am getting the feeling you must either be a dedicated road bike person or dedicated mountain bike person. I don't want to buy two bikes. Thanks.
#12
Ninny
Join Date: Jan 2010
Location: The Gunks
Posts: 5,295
Mentioned: 53 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 686 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 1 Time
in
1 Post
There's nothing wrong with riding a mountain bike on the road. You get to the same destination, and you get the same, or more, fitness benefit as on a road bike. You just won't go as fast.
I bet that you have 2 bikes by the end of the year, though.
I bet that you have 2 bikes by the end of the year, though.
#13
Senior Member
Thank You for the information, it is exactly what was I was looking for. Even though a newbie I ride 100 miles a week. A long ride on the weekend and short 10 mile sprints during the week. While new to the sport, I do know that a road bike is designed more for speed then a mountain bike. 700 tires versus 2.0 tires alone is a big deal. I ride on a combination of roads, bike paths, dirt and gravel during my travels. A road bike would not work for me. I don't want to commit to just roads either. I though more people would feel the same way but I am getting the feeling you must either be a dedicated road bike person or dedicated mountain bike person. I don't want to buy two bikes. Thanks.
#14
Got Hills, I do!
Join Date: Aug 2006
Location: Northern Michigan
Posts: 765
Bikes: Trek Domane SLR 9.9 - Trek Supercaliber 9.9.
Mentioned: 1 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 4 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 9 Times
in
8 Posts
I have those same gears and have done a few MTB races that have long road leadouts (1-2 miles). I can hit 25mph+ with those gears but not for a sustained ride. The gears are not your problem. I would guess it is your cadence.
The big problem will be in the rolling resistance of the tires and the wind resistance from the frame and position it puts you in.
You can put money switching those things around but then you get a bike that will do both trails and road but will do neither very well. Your best bet is two bikes or find what you like best and have the bike built for that and just deal with the other aspect with what you have.
The big problem will be in the rolling resistance of the tires and the wind resistance from the frame and position it puts you in.
You can put money switching those things around but then you get a bike that will do both trails and road but will do neither very well. Your best bet is two bikes or find what you like best and have the bike built for that and just deal with the other aspect with what you have.
#15
Frozen in carbonite
Join Date: Oct 2004
Location: Ottawa
Posts: 805
Bikes: '85 Full Cycle Cycle.
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 0 Times
in
0 Posts
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
jambon
Bicycle Mechanics
11
08-01-16 11:48 PM
mooty
Bicycle Mechanics
3
05-07-15 12:15 AM