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  1. #1
    ed
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    If it ain't broken, don't fix it...an OEM project.

    I wasn't going to start a new thread about this, but it's been so long since I've purchased a complete bike versus building it with my own bike-snobbery in mind...I thought I do a little project. Since I've been kinda hard on bikes in the past, I've decided to buy a stock ride and only replace things as they break or fail.


    The style:
    -Urban AllMountain: I won't be hucking huge building drops, but probably avg stair gaps and walls, loading docks, parking lot berms, etc. There aren't any nearby trails in my new city.

    I'm generally so picky about every little component on my bike, it will be interesting to see what a stock ride can handle.

    The ride:
    -2010 Jamis Parker 1: I had thought about bumping up to the Parker 2 due to the Lyrik over Domain, Ext BB over splined, Chain guide...but when it's all said and done, I loved my last Domain, the wheelset is the same, the BB is arguably more durable than the FSA ext, and I still prefer Shimano over SRAM. The value of the Parker 1 at $1250 is really great.

    Frame:

    7005 aluminum all tubes, over-sized cartridge bearing pivots, fully-active mp2 platform design
    100mm travel float R shock with 10mm hardware
    Replaceable derailleur hanger
    Fork:

    Rock Shox Domain 302 U-Turn, 35mm stanchions, external rebound damping adjustor
    Maxle 20mm axle
    115-160mm travel
    Components:

    Headset: Zero-Stack internal cup, threadless, 20mm shim stack, 1 1/8”
    Derailleurs: Shimano Deore XT Shadow mid-cage rear and SLX 34.9mm top pull front
    Shifters: Shimano SLX Rapidfire-SL, 18-speed
    Chain: KMC z9000
    Cassette: SRAM Powerglide 950, 9-speed, 11-32
    Crankset: FSA Step Up, 32/22T heat-treated cromo chainrings, 170mm, with e.13 Turbo Charger bash guard
    BB: FSA ISIS, sealed cartridge, 73 x 118mm
    Pedals: Flatbed alloy platform with pedal spikes
    Brakes: Hayes Stroker Ryde hydraulic disc brakes with V8 front & V7 rear rotors
    Handlebar: Syncros AM 20 riser, double-butted 6061, 31.8 x 9/4 sweep x 40mm rise x 670mm
    Stem: Syncros FR 50, 3D forged 6061, 31.8 bar bore x 15 rise x 50mm
    Grips: WTB Weirwolf, dual DNA compound
    Seatpost: Syncros Derived 2-piece OS, 31.6 x 350mm with alloy QR clamp
    Saddle: WTB Pure V Race with black diamond cover & corners
    Wheelset:

    Alex Sx-44 eyeletted rims
    Formula 20mm thru-axle front & formula DC32 sealed rear disc hub
    WTB 14g stainless steel spokes
    Kenda Nevegal, 26 x 2.35”
    Weight: 35.50 lbs Actual weight - 36.3lbs
    Last edited by ed; 07-14-11 at 10:22 PM.

  2. #2
    In search of moar cowbell dminor's Avatar
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    Gonna be an urban bomb beast, congrats!

    Hopefully, the FSA BB is the quad-bearing Platinum Pro; otherwise I give it a year .

  3. #3
    ed
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    Generic pic for now. The red is really rich...I'll get real pics up tonight.
    Last edited by dminor; 07-13-11 at 01:47 PM.

  4. #4
    I'm band already? lubes17319's Avatar
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    Looks like a steal for $1250.
    Bombs away!
    Who cares what your bike weighs, just ride it!

  5. #5
    In search of moar cowbell dminor's Avatar
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    Wait a minute . . . .

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    next graphix; unpimp your ride!

  7. #7
    Fool O' crap sscyco's Avatar
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    I have the Domain - I really like it - much better than I expected

    I'm a little jealous of the weight -of your bike

  8. #8
    ed
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    Here's pics I snapped tonight...




    Got the extra firm spring overnighted and installed. Works perfectly...


    Only thing I can't deal with is the handlebar. I've been rolling with an Easton EA70 HiRise since 2006. I just can't get used to a low rise bar. I found a Syncros Bulk DH HiRise bar at Bikewagon for $26!! Great buy! So I guess I'm breaking my own rule here with the bar, but the thing has to fit me at least.

    (generic pic of the bar...)


    Other than that, the bike is really plush for a 4-banger. The 2:1 ratio is pretty PIMP. Still getting used to a slightly shorter cockpit. Also getting comfy with the shorter seat tube. It's a size 18"...but the seat tube is really only 15-15.5".

    I was worried that the rear tri was just an XLT tri that was adapted to the frame, but it's definitely a whole lot beefier than my XLT was. I'm impressed with the size of the tubes, linkage, and especially the pivot bearings. The rocker bearings are the same size as sk8 bearings, I believe. Wicked bigger than the XLT.

    Hayes brakes feel really good. It's a bit trickier to get a 7 & 8" rotor to keep from making that "SHIIIIIIIING" noise when it doinks the pads. The rotors also seem a bit easier to bend due to the larger size. I've got the same rotors on the Komodo, but they're 6"f and 5"r.

    Had to true up the front wheel a bit, but other than that...everything seems kosher.

    Bunnyhopping a dually is coming back to me quick. I preload the suspension to get a little more pop with a dually than I usually do on a hardtail. Should be fun for urban stuff.

    Dig it so far.
    Last edited by ed; 07-13-11 at 09:34 PM.

  9. #9
    ed
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    (btw...Doug, that was just a low blow)


    Let it ride

  10. #10
    use your best eye kenhill3's Avatar
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    Ed, when you hang it up in the garage, don't let Parker see your sawzall.

    Nice ride, BTW.
    "I tell you, We are here on earth to fart around, and don't let anybody tell you any different." - Kurt Vonnegut jr.

  11. #11
    ed
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    ! I forgot about that.

    Last edited by ed; 07-14-11 at 10:27 PM.

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    That is a sweet looking bike! I have a Jamis commuter 4.0 for my primary source of transportation, and I love it. Jamis is a hell of a company.. I really wish they sold more bikes here in Europe. Someday I'll be able to afford such a beauty.

  13. #13
    In search of moar cowbell dminor's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by ed View Post
    (btw...Doug, that was just a low blow)


    Let it ride
    It was so darn purdy, the urge to spray some graffiti was too much

    Nice rig! Don't worry about the big rotors - - they're tough. Trust me.

  14. #14
    ed
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  15. #15
    ed
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    Night and day! It's been so long since I've ridden low rise, narrow (ish) bars...I just can't believe how much I hate them

    The wider/taller bar gives the compact frame a more open and natural feeling. It transformed the bike from something I was going to have to get used to...to a bike that feels like I've been riding for a year.

    Very happy with the $26 price tag a well.
    Last edited by ed; 07-15-11 at 08:50 PM.

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    In search of moar cowbell dminor's Avatar
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    ^^

  17. #17
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    Quote Originally Posted by dminor View Post
    It was so darn purdy, the urge to spray some graffiti was too much

    Nice rig! Don't worry about the big rotors - - they're tough. Trust me.
    You really do have a nasty streak dont you!

    By the way Ed, that's a very nice bike, the color is awesome.

  18. #18
    ed
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    Few things:

    Hayes Stroker Ryde's lack in power. The 8" Ryde is not as powerful as my 6" Elixir. They do however modulate very well in comparison. Obvious trade-off, but it's a little too far past the sweet spot of good modulation / good power.

    2.35" Nevegal as a front tire at 45-50psi isn't a terribly inspiring tire. It's okay on the rear, but I'd rather have an Excavator. Dropping it down to 38psi for singletrack is very nice, but running it urban at 50 isn't confidence inspiring.

    Stock grips (non-lock-on) rotate when you try to hop or bring the bike up during a jump (rotating bars forward). When I changed out the bars, I put some Tioga lock-on grips in place. I'm not a big fan of these either b/c if they get too wet, the center of the grip between the locking rings wiggles around. The rings are connected to eachother via a plastic core. The grip is wrapped around the plastic core. The sides of the grip stay in place, but the squishy center portion will move a bit when wet. Probably get another set of Peaty's at some point.

    Seatpost is slightly too short for a dude my size if you're going to do any XC trails widdit. I took it out to a technical climby trail out at Landahl...I ended up walking alot of it b/c of my lack of fitness this year, short seatpost, 7.5 extra pounds of bike, and less efficient design over my HT. That said...it's alot of fun on the trail as long as things are fairly level or pointing DH. This thing really screams on techy DH stuff. Really digging the 2:1 rear end.

    New Syncros Bulk HiRise is still the PIMP!

    These wheels are daggum tough! I half way expected to need a good afternoon with a spoke wrench after this week, but the rear wheel is straight as an arrow. The front wheel was slightly out of true when I got it...I trued it up a bit already and it hasn't moved. Very unexpectedly surprised and impressed.

    When I'm on pavement and turn the handlebar one way or the other...the extra grip from the front tire causes this "Shiiiiiiiing" noise from the front rotor rubbing the pads. It's just a minor annoyance that I attribute to the Formula front hub possibly not being quite as tight of tolerance as the Hope Pro 2 that I'm used to. I have never heard this before on any of my bikes...not a deal breaker at all...but minor annoyance.

    I would say so far...that this thing out of the box is impressing me. It's plush and comfortable with the new bars. If I were going to do more climbing with it, I'd get a 400mm Gravity Dropper and 175mm crankset for it. I can't say that it's in my near future though. The combo of shorter post and 170mm crankset makes it noticeably extra work when there's a slight uphill grade...but as soon as it levels out or points downhill...the thing just wants to take-off.
    Last edited by ed; 07-18-11 at 07:03 AM.

  19. #19
    ed
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    Finally got sick of the grips. Gotta say...initially, these feel pretty good, D. The clamp has always scared me away, but having them in my hot little hands for inspection...I'm not worried a bit.



    So to recap...the stock wheelset is dang tough. More so than I had expected fer sure. Stock bars (though of good quality) were too low to be comfy. Everything is holding up...'cept the grips.
    Last edited by ed; 08-16-11 at 08:43 PM.

  20. #20
    In search of moar cowbell dminor's Avatar
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    My only wish is that the end caps had two set screws. Not because they need it for normal riding but would make them more secure in the event of a crash (something I'm too familiar with of late ). Which gives me an idea: my drill, a tap and a trip to the hardware store. Hmmmm . . . .

  21. #21
    Senior Member JonathanGennick's Avatar
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    Ed, your new bike looks fantastic. I just wanted to say that.

    Quote Originally Posted by ed View Post
    Hayes Stroker Ryde's lack in power. The 8" Ryde is not as powerful as my 6" Elixir. They do however modulate very well in comparison. Obvious trade-off, but it's a little too far past the sweet spot of good modulation / good power.
    Same experience here. I put Hayes Stroker Grams on my Big Mama. They don't really "stop" the bike per se. Mostly they give me something to grab in a panic as I vainly hope that the trees will move out of my way. So if you're riding in front of me on the trail it's a good idea to stay well out ahead of me.

  22. #22
    ed
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    As much as I really wanna pimp D's SugarDaddies, I can't recommend Sunline Lock-On Grips.

    I was out bonking around and saw a 4' loading dock. (no ed, don't drop to flat...it's bad) I don't recommend dropping 4' to flat unless you have a big bike or good trials skeelz. Both of which fall slightly short for myself, but I can hold my own.

    So after I landed, I noticed my the lateral end of my right grip had moved a little. I moved it back, and went on my way. The grip moved around a little on bunnyhops, so I popped in to O'Reilly and borrowed a 2.5mm allen wrench to tighten it. 1/2 way home, the whole end cap popped off. Glad I was on pavement so I could hear it land and roll to a stop.

    Got home and drilled / tapped the opposing end of the set screw for a second set screw on both grips.




    I was afraid that the Sunline set screws would be this style, but you can't tell unless you shop has one you can hold, or you have friends that own them. IMO, it's a crime to screw a set screw directly into your handlebar. The ODI system has never spun on me. If I were installing these on a carbon bar, I'm afraid I would damage the bar b/c the lateral set screw can't be tightened enough to "not move" w/o penetrating the plastic core and piercing the bar.

    Seeing as I'm using a Syncros Bulk with walls thicker than my skull...I will be fine with them after my mod.

    I didn't have a 5mm drill and tap, so I had to invest another 8 bucks in proper tooling. I "chose" to invest a couple more in stainless set screws.

    Moral of the story?

    1. Don't buy Sunline? Not necessarily...I think they would be fine for most people and the "S" patter is excellent.
    2. Don't drop 4' to flat? Probably...but whatev's. I'm not gonna stop.
    3. If it ain't broken, don't fix it? Yup. Go with what works. If you get bored with something...paint it pink or some ghey crap

  23. #23
    ed
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    Now that it's done...I have less faith in the system. When you tighten the set screws down just a bit, the grips move around...if you tighten them down more, the plastic underneath deforms and pushes the cap off the end.


    Bleh.

    Edit: I swapped them for the Yeti's on the crapper.
    Last edited by ed; 08-21-11 at 07:53 PM.

  24. #24
    In search of moar cowbell dminor's Avatar
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    Sorry you had trouble with them, Ed. The end caps are a bit futzy sometimes. I wasn't going to say anything before, not because I wanted to hide anything - - I just didn't want to cause trouble where maybe there wouldn't be any for you. The 'trick,' if there is one, is to do the cap with a light touch. The set screw is more to just keep the cap on, not to clamp the grip (the inboard screws do that job). Yes it helps remove the possibility of the inner plastic barrel twisting I suppose, but mainly it keeps the cap on. That means just snugging the screw into it's divot in the plastic (that HAS to be lined up dead on to work right). Over-tightening deforms the plastic, can strip the set-screw thread (yeah, I've done it - - there are, what three or four threads in that cap?) and sets the cap cockeyed on the end.

    I like your idea of the opposing set-screw. A divot on the other side and that would be golden. Should be stock from Sunline IMO. For the record, I've salvaged a savagely-ripped-off cap with a small sheet metal screw through everything, bar wall and all. And no I can't believe it can hurt the bar in any way. Shucks it's way out at the end beyond any stresses.

    You shouldn't be experiencing any twist though, no matter what. 4 foot to flat? Pffft! I've gapped jumps, cased gap jumps, completely blown gap jumps, augered jumps, gone ass-over-teakettle off stuff and even the crashes haven't loosened the grips. Ripped caps off yes, but the grips themselves have stayed solid.

    I feel bad that they haven't delivered as promised though, Ed. PM me and let's see what we can work out.

  25. #25
    ed
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    Quote Originally Posted by dminor View Post

    I feel bad that they haven't delivered as promised though, Ed. PM me and let's see what we can work out.
    No way, homie...they're being put to good use. No worries.

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