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Old 09-26-11, 06:07 AM   #1
dremspider
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Cassette on Trek Maxle rear wheel came loose?

I have a Trek Rumblefish one and recently someone pointed out that my rear wheel was a bit wobbly. I also noticed that I heard the disk brake occassionally. I pulled off the rear wheel and was really surprised when my Cassette just fell off. The bolt that holds it in completely came undone. I was also surprised that this cassette design looks like nothing that I am used to as the lockring is not involved with holding the cassette on the wheel at all. So.. Does this happen to a lot of people? How do I properly screw it down? The bolt is reverse threaded and all I could do was hand tighten it, because the axle would begin to spin when I started to screw it in. I was later thinking that a chain whip would do the trick, but didn't try that (This is something also odd to me, usually you use the chain whip to get if off, not put it on). Is there a proper torgue value for this? Did anyone else have this problem?
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Old 09-26-11, 06:55 AM   #2
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Pics?
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Old 09-26-11, 07:08 PM   #3
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For your enjoyment.....
https://picasaweb.google.com/1009298...eat=directlink

I now realize what is going on... the bolt that holds the freehub came off. I got it all back together, but I can't figure out how to properly tighten it. The side with the cassette I can easily hold with a cone wrench, but the other side is a perfect cylinder. The best I can do is use a pair of pliers and a rag to hold it while tightening. As I said before, it is reverse threaded. Is there any documentation for this freehub? Is there a recommended torque value?

I pulled it all apart and put a bunch of grease in the freehub, cleaned the cassette and put it back together, but I am still not sure if it is tight enough. Will the happen again?
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Old 09-26-11, 09:18 PM   #4
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Make sure you have those pawls in the hub, because it will be a short ride to failure if they aren't.

To tighten it, the axle and bearings might need to be pulled from the hub, then going from the non-drive side you tighten the freehub with the appropriate sized hex wrench, then you have to get the axle and bearings back in. If you don't feel comfortable doing this, take it to your lbs and they will be able snug it down for you.
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Old 09-27-11, 04:03 AM   #5
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On the non-drive side there is nothing to "grab it with" there is no slots to stick a wrench on. If you look at the picture with the disk crake you will see what I mean. The best I could do was use a rag and a pair of pliers to hold it down. I have rebuilt hubs before and usually I am used to there being two nuts on either side that you need a cone wrench and regular wrench to tighten against one another. This design has one nut on the drive side. Does anyone know who makes this where I can get a service manual? I wonder what will happen if I even need to service the bearings.
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Old 09-27-11, 05:07 AM   #6
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Dannihilator meant to pass the hex wrench through the NDS(inside, not outside)....just like you would tighten most freehub bodies.

Jam nuts on the axle have nothing to do with keeping the freehub on the hub shell.
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Old 09-27-11, 06:04 AM   #7
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Originally Posted by ncfisherman View Post
Dannihilator meant to pass the hex wrench through the NDS(inside, not outside)....just like you would tighten most freehub bodies.

Jam nuts on the axle have nothing to do with keeping the freehub on the hub shell.
With the thru axle I can see clear through where the axle goes and it is totally cylindrical. How can I keep it from spinning when I am trying to tighten it?
If it isn't responsible for holding the freehub on, maybe it being hand tight is sufficient?
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Old 09-27-11, 06:11 AM   #8
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Should have checked Sheldons first!!!

"Although you can screw the freewheel on by hand, just by turning the sprockets clockwise, when you want to remove it, the sprockets don't help, because the freewheel's ratchet mechanism lets it spin freely counterclockwise. To remove a freewheel requires a special tool, commonly called a "freewheel puller" or "freewheel extractor", to grab hold of the core of the freewheel."

Then it goes on to say that "Freehubs" are essentially the same....

So... Why did it come off in the first place.
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Old 09-27-11, 06:20 AM   #9
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I also would like to know how to service this hub for the future, as I saw no way to get inside it... (maybe that is be design). The one nut is all there is.. There is nothing else. Maybe if I take off the disk brake I will see something?
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Old 09-27-11, 02:45 PM   #10
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How about an allen wrench in one of the disk brake bolts?
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Old 09-28-11, 07:52 AM   #11
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Thought about that, the disk brake bolts are part of the wheel, not the axle. I need to hold down the axle. Doing this will allow the wheel to just spin.
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Old 09-28-11, 09:31 AM   #12
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Rag + some sort of pliers/wrench to grab the non-drive side, then go to town.

Or, you could also file some flats onto the ND side bits. Gl slowly and carefully, make it look nice and pro.

IMO, I'd do the latter. You'd then always have a way to work on it, without possibly marring up things with a wrench. Assuming it's the stock cheapy wheel?

With the cassette off the way you had it, you'd then likely push/pound the axle out through the ND side to get access to the bearings. Getting the cassette off the carrier will help getting access to those bearings, I'd guess.

Looks somewhat similar to Hope ProII and bulb hubs - mainly held together by friction, and tightening the rear axle up keeps things pre-loaded.
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