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Old 11-30-04, 09:08 PM   #1
pacu1
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Mech disc brakes vs hyrdo

Hi
What is the difference between mech. disc brakes and hydro disc brakes? and what are the pros and cons of each?

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Old 11-30-04, 09:12 PM   #2
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mech work by wire, kinda like your regular rim brakes except with a rotor and caliper
hydro work more along the lines of a car brake, with fluid and pistons instead of the wire
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Old 11-30-04, 11:22 PM   #3
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cable:

pro: easy ot get a replacement cable, quick to setup, light weight.

cons: not as good of performance as fluid, cable stretch


fluid:

pro: best and most consistant stopping power, has no significant issues that are comparable to cable stretch.

cons: uses special tube instead of a cable housing so if it breaks in the middle of whereami, you might have a hard time finding a replacement part. Also takes more time to set-up, since you have to bleed the lines, etc. Also for field service fluid has to be handy. Not all disc use the same fuild, so carrying some is highly reccomended since the bike shop in that area might not carry the fluid you use.

I've been very tempted to go fluid, however I'll stick to my mechanicals. Just knowing all i need is a regular brake cable is a very comforting thought.
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Old 11-30-04, 11:29 PM   #4
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You forgot to mention the Pros and Cons associated with costs.

Mechanicals are cheaper, especially when upgrading. Why? Usually you can use the same brake lever as your vee (linear pull) brakes.

Also, Pro for Hydros is Modulation. The "feel" at the lever. Instead of a on or off feel, you can have a "barely on yet not enough to really slow me down stay in control for that next big turn" feel at the lever.
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Old 11-30-04, 11:32 PM   #5
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True, the feel of my mechs are not that great around turns, but i do have the modulation down...you just dont get that nice personal feedback that you get with a firmer brake system, most of it is just knowing how far on the lever to go, since the feedback is kind of sloppy on my set.

My set are deore mechanicals with LX levers. I'm seriously thinking of going to another brand, maybe Avid.
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Old 11-30-04, 11:53 PM   #6
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i find the pro that relates to "easy to fix in the middle of whereami" is not really much of a pro for mechs. unless you carry spare cable and a wire cutter - but my wire cutter is way too huge to bring along on rides.

not that i'm dissing mechs or anything
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Old 12-01-04, 12:05 AM   #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Funkychicken
unless you carry spare cable and a wire cutter
Like I do? A lot can be said for having pre cut cables on hand
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Old 12-01-04, 12:08 AM   #8
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Be core, ride without brakes. They are overrated at times anyways
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Old 12-01-04, 01:02 AM   #9
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Avid Mechanical discs, with Avid levers that have the Speed Dial feature, (go check on the Avid part of the www.sram.com site) and full housing runs over good stainless cables feel sooooooo buttery. Excellent modulation, plenty of power. 185mm up front, 160mm rear rotor.

It's an easy/no brainer setup to install and maintain. And yep, I carry a spare brake cable, precut in my toolbag part of my pack. I've not had to use it yet, though I've been on several rides where people have developed problems with their hydros........

Catatonic, if you want to get better performance for minimal $$$, hop on E-bay and pick up some Avids. You can normally find a full set of calipers and lever going for $100 or less.

They will feel WORLDS above the Sh#tmano Deore/LX combo you have. Really.
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Old 12-01-04, 01:12 AM   #10
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i always ride with a leatherman...while not a perfect wire cutter, it will do for a field repair...plus it does so much more that it's like having nearly an entire toolbox in your seat bag.

I also have a multitool that is a socket wrench/ closed end wrench/screwdriver set/hammer but it's too big to carry.
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Old 12-01-04, 01:16 AM   #11
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Quote:
Originally Posted by catatonic
i always ride with a leatherman...while not a perfect wire cutter, it will do for a field repair...plus it does so much more that it's like having nearly an entire toolbox in your seat bag.

I also have a multitool that is a socket wrench/ closed end wrench/screwdriver set/hammer but it's too big to carry.
I normally walk around with a Leatherman and / or a Swiss Army Knife, I always find a need for having them.
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Old 12-01-04, 02:11 AM   #12
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hmm, can you use the avids with the LX levers? Only reason I ask is they are those blasted integrated shifter types...so if I have to replace the levers it's going to get costly.
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Old 12-01-04, 03:42 AM   #13
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Quote:
Originally Posted by catatonic
hmm, can you use the avids with the LX levers? Only reason I ask is they are those blasted integrated shifter types...so if I have to replace the levers it's going to get costly.
yep, you can. even just using the avid calipers instead of the deores will make a huge improvement.

i'd not reccomend buying any other mechanical than Avid.
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Old 12-01-04, 06:13 AM   #14
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I've ridden on both mech and hydro brakes and I can vouch for the stopping power it's alot stronger on the hydros and it's so much smoother. That is just my opinion and that is comparing the avid mech bb7 to hayes nines
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Old 12-01-04, 08:06 AM   #15
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I have never had issues with stopping power using Avic BB7. I hear some people complain how their hand gets tired with them, i wont comment on that. But i dont see myself going to hydro i think its more than most people need anyways.
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Old 12-01-04, 01:23 PM   #16
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i'm 400lbs, I find the hydros w/ 6" rotors to be inadequate sometimes
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Old 12-01-04, 02:41 PM   #17
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Quote:
Originally Posted by PWRDbyTRD
i'm 400lbs, I find the hydros w/ 6" rotors to be inadequate sometimes
Well, you weight more than most high performance motorcycles do, maybe you should try some 12" motorcycle rotors. Or lose 200lbs.
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Old 12-01-04, 02:57 PM   #18
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Quote:
Originally Posted by notfred
Well, you weight more than most high performance motorcycles do, maybe you should try some 12" motorcycle rotors. Or lose 200lbs.
Hmm lose 200 pounds, thatīs kind of rude eh? But itīs comforting to know that there are brakes that can take that sort of abuse
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Old 12-01-04, 06:22 PM   #19
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doh - precut cables didnt think of that. tell me you guys dont carry precut derailleur cables too?
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Old 12-01-04, 06:46 PM   #20
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Funkychicken
doh - precut cables didnt think of that. tell me you guys dont carry precut derailleur cables too?

yep. only the cable, no housing. one brake and one shift cable, long length, with the end cut. a spare chainring bolt, crank bolt, a couple rotor bolts, some standard size m5 and m6 bolts, spare disc pads, sip ties, duct tape.

and at one time or another, i've ended up using it all. either on my bike, or someone elses.
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Old 12-01-04, 06:53 PM   #21
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I just carry an uncut cable...cut it when i need it...that way it can be used on any part that fubars. If the rear cable fubars, I might keep it to use for front brakes or front deraileur, etc.
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Old 12-01-04, 07:50 PM   #22
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Quote:
Originally Posted by scrublover
yep. only the cable, no housing. one brake and one shift cable, long length, with the end cut. a spare chainring bolt, crank bolt, a couple rotor bolts, some standard size m5 and m6 bolts, spare disc pads, sip ties, duct tape.
Sounds like somebody rides WAY out in the middle of nowhere!

I bet you don't leave the house without a whole pack of condoms in your pocket either...

Back to the brake subject...

Anyone use the Avid BB7's with their Full Metal Jacket Cables or Flak Jacket Cables and can compare them to Hydro's? Or compare to standard cables?

I bought Flak Jackets but I'm thinking of reselling them and getting the Full Metal Jackets... I had thought that they were the same thing, saw the cheaper price and leaped on it but then realized they were different and said screw it I'll just use the Flak Jackets... Hmmm, what to do?

Last edited by incipit; 12-01-04 at 08:08 PM.
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Old 12-01-04, 08:43 PM   #23
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never leave the house without condoms, 2.00 in quarters, 40c in nickels, 40c in dimes, a quality wind-resistant lighter, and a pocket flask of your favorite spirits.

For these are the items that might just keep you form having a crappy night

BTW change is good for san jose's public cans, which cost 25c to use...exact change only.


edit: ok...sometimes it's good to leave the liquor at home....sometimes
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Old 12-01-04, 11:52 PM   #24
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i've used both, and of the two, i prefer the flak jackets. full housing runs all the way to the front and rear - this leaves no open housing sections for crud to get into, other than at both ends. and if you have those sealed up well, you'll have no problems.

the FMJ work great, depending on your frame. if you have long straight runs of housing, they are good. the more bends/joins you have, the worse they are, as you will have more junctions withthe metal sleeves/housing to junk things up/introduce more friction into the system.


three bikes in the house setup with avid discs and flak jacket housing. butter smooth feel at the lever, great power, and great modulation.

all that is assuming you take the time to do a really good setup. once set and dialed though, they are great. i've seen some crappy setups; guess what? then you have crappy braking.

and for PWRDbyTRD, at your size dude, you need larger rotors, no matter what brake system you are using. at least move up to whatever the next size up for your brakes is. new rotors+new adapters won't run too much $$$, and you'll have much better power/feel/modulation.

Last edited by scrublover; 12-02-04 at 12:11 AM.
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Old 12-02-04, 12:09 AM   #25
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Personally I like my Gore Ride On brake cables for use with my Avid's, but that's me.
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