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Old 03-17-12, 07:21 PM   #1
MadMechanic
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Brakes. Yeah I know.

So I spilled a large amount of WD40 on to my rear caliper by accident. Now my friction coefficient is extremely less. I had forgotten that I spilled the WD and I went out to ride and was like WTF oh yeah.....so I rode hard and locked down the rear caliper more than normal to try and "burn" the WD off the pads....no luck...so then I even grabbed a handful of fine dirt and rubbed it all over the disc hoping it would work like kitty litter at a molecular level. No luck. Anyone done this? and if so other than driving my ass to the bike shop and buying new pads what will kill WD40! ?
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Old 03-17-12, 07:40 PM   #2
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Fire. Put it on the burner on your stove and burn the stuff off. It will never work like new again, but close. Might as well buy new pads.
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Old 03-17-12, 10:33 PM   #3
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laquer thinner or mineral spirits possibly
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Old 03-17-12, 10:40 PM   #4
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I wouldn't use an indoor stove. smells like hell. I used the asian portable gas burner, $20 at ranch 99.
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Old 03-18-12, 05:11 AM   #5
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Might be an idea to find out what pads the OP has before recommending the stove/burn method, I don't think that it'd be a good idea to put resin/organic pads on the stove or to burn them.

Alcohol is the most commonly used solvent for cleaning pads and rotors.

If the pads have been badly contaminated the only solution to the problem is to buy new pads.
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Old 03-19-12, 09:30 AM   #6
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Roger that, I think I will try some solvent, if not... then I even thought about getting some pine sap from one of the many pine trees and slightly blow-torch melting a small amount onto the pad. something is bound to work.
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Old 03-19-12, 10:32 AM   #7
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Call me lazy, but all that seems like a lot of work for a $15 replacement part.
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Old 03-19-12, 10:39 AM   #8
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Use fingernail polish remover. Let it soak for about ten minutes. Done!
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Old 03-19-12, 10:48 AM   #9
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Call me lazy, but all that seems like a lot of work for a $15 replacement part.
Yup, time to buy new pads.
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Old 03-19-12, 05:33 PM   #10
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Save yourself alot of time and get new pads. Clean the rotor with alcohol or brake cleaner before using.
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Old 03-20-12, 12:09 PM   #11
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Quote Originally Posted by samburger View Post
-Call me lazy, but all that seems like a lot of work for a $15 replacement part.

-Yup, time to buy new pads.


I'm too self-sufficient for that if its not neccerry. I enjoy a lot of work.
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Old 03-20-12, 01:28 PM   #12
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I enjoy working on my bike, but I enjoy knowing everything is performing as well as it can be more. Not criticizing, just different strokes for different folks.

Let us know if you find a solution
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Old 03-20-12, 01:31 PM   #13
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who cares; it's your back brake.
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Old 03-20-12, 02:57 PM   #14
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^^I still prefer my back brake. I know its wrong, I also eat ice cream right before I go to bed, I am a rebel.
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Old 03-21-12, 07:01 AM   #15
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The only way to fix is spring for some new pads and take some isopropyl alchohol on a clean rag to clean the WD40 off the disc. With the disc clean and new pads, you will have to re-burnish the disk, so you won't have full brake power for maybe 20 stops.
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Old 03-21-12, 07:02 AM   #16
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New pads. You have to clean the rotor with alcohol or the like as well.
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Old 03-21-12, 07:09 AM   #17
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Until you do the right thing about that back brake, you won't ride with me.

But since I don't know where you live and ride, you probably won't ride with me ANYWAY.

Oops; so much for peer pressure.
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Old 03-21-12, 07:12 AM   #18
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WD 40 is not a lubricant. It has zero lubricating qualities. It was originally created for the job of water displacement. Hence the name WD-40. It will help keep your stuff from rusting because it does a good job of getting rid of water. A mild detergent and hot water should clean it up. Then if you want to, use some acetone (or nail polish remover) on the brakes.
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Old 03-21-12, 09:46 AM   #19
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^So use water to get rid of something used to get rid of water?
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Old 03-21-12, 01:22 PM   #20
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^So use water to get rid of something used to get rid of water?
lol
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Old 03-21-12, 01:24 PM   #21
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Until you do the right thing about that back brake, you won't ride with me.

But since I don't know where you live and ride, you probably won't ride with me ANYWAY.

Oops; so much for peer pressure.
It's okay. Im use to this type of thing ->



doubt you could keep up
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Old 03-21-12, 02:06 PM   #22
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WD 40 is not a lubricant. It has zero lubricating qualities.
Well, that's not entirely true. It may have poor lubricating qualities for specific purposes but it does have them. A quick peek at the WD-40 MSDS reveals the following:



Aliphatic Hydrocarbon:
Animal-fat based oil or solvent (often fish oil)

Petroleum Base Oil
Hmmm . . . another lubricant

LVP Aliphatic Hydrocarbon
another one.

. . . so, ya see, it's got a fair amount of oils, which I daresay likely have lubricating qualities. It displaces water because it contains a surfactant - - which 'wets' the water, or breaks down its surface tension, so that it will run off of whatever it's on and not just stick there.

In fact, it's not a very good water-displacer for a lot of things (like electrical parts) because it DOES leave an oily residue - - unlike better water displacers like LPS-1.
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Old 03-21-12, 03:54 PM   #23
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It's okay. Im use to this type of thing ->



doubt you could keep up
Dont be so sure: http://www.redbull.co.uk/cs/Satellit...21242933163725
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Old 03-21-12, 08:40 PM   #24
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I use butter if I really have a grease problem, then wash off the butter with dish soap. After working on a car or bicycle, I just use some cheap vegetable oil to break down the petroleum products before washing with dish soap.
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