Chainring adapter/spider for cassette body? Singlespeed cog
#1
Schwinn Magnet
Thread Starter
Join Date: Aug 2010
Location: Virginia
Posts: 458
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 0 Times
in
0 Posts
Chainring adapter/spider for cassette body? Singlespeed cog
My search skills have failed me .
I'm trying to find out if anyone makes an adapter or "spider" to use an inner chainring as a singlespeed cog on a Shimano cassette body / freehub. I understand that the usual solution is to run a smaller ring in front, but there is a minimum size I can use in front and still clear the brake. I could hack up an old cassette, but it would be nice to have a cleaner solution for using larger cogs.
My current setup 34x24 is functional, but I'd like a bit lower gearing for steep sections that I now have to walk.
This may be one of those stupid questions, thanks for humoring me .
I'm trying to find out if anyone makes an adapter or "spider" to use an inner chainring as a singlespeed cog on a Shimano cassette body / freehub. I understand that the usual solution is to run a smaller ring in front, but there is a minimum size I can use in front and still clear the brake. I could hack up an old cassette, but it would be nice to have a cleaner solution for using larger cogs.
My current setup 34x24 is functional, but I'd like a bit lower gearing for steep sections that I now have to walk.
This may be one of those stupid questions, thanks for humoring me .
#2
Senior Member
Join Date: Aug 2005
Posts: 757
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 0 Times
in
0 Posts
What do you mean by "still clear the brake"? If you have disc brakes, the disc is on the other side of the wheel. If you have V-brakes or cantilevers they are on top. Since most bikes were designed with 32 teeth middle rings in mind, you should be able to swap the 34 for a 32. But in the end, why would you go any lower? Even on a 29er, 34/24 is so low that you'll spin like crazy on any flat sections.
#3
Senior Member
Lemme get this straight... you wanna use a chainring as a single speed cog? Don't think that's gonna happen, although I've never tried it.
What kind of clearance problems are you having when you say it has to clear the brake. Do you have a chainstay mounted U-brake or roller cam brake? Even then the calipers shouldn't extend past the chainstays.
Agree with Thor29, 34/24 is already hella low. Do they have super steep long climbs in VA? When you go SS you'll inevitably walk some short steep sections, it's part of the deal.
Your post isn't stupid as much as it is confusing.
What kind of clearance problems are you having when you say it has to clear the brake. Do you have a chainstay mounted U-brake or roller cam brake? Even then the calipers shouldn't extend past the chainstays.
Agree with Thor29, 34/24 is already hella low. Do they have super steep long climbs in VA? When you go SS you'll inevitably walk some short steep sections, it's part of the deal.
Your post isn't stupid as much as it is confusing.
#4
Schwinn Magnet
Thread Starter
Join Date: Aug 2010
Location: Virginia
Posts: 458
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 0 Times
in
0 Posts
Thanks for the replies.
It is an under-the-chainstay u-brake. Here are two photos that may help. Setup is 34x23 with a tensioner pulling the chain down. Without the tensioner the chain hits the brake.
Yes, long steep climbs and really no flat sections where I ride. It's all crank uphill, then coast downhill riding the brakes all the way (same on a geared bike). I do expect to have to walk some, even on a geared bike with 24x28 low gear I have to push some places.
Originally Posted by Thor29
What do you mean by "still clear the brake"?
Originally Posted by commo_soulja
Do they have super steep long climbs in VA? When you go SS you'll inevitably walk some short steep sections, it's part of the deal.
#5
Riding like its 1990
Only way to possibly do it is to carefully measure the rear 34 gear you are using and then spot weld a steel front chainring onto the gear perfectly centered.
It'd still be wonky with all the stresses placed on it though. Good luck
It'd still be wonky with all the stresses placed on it though. Good luck
#6
Senior Member
Hmm... clearance seems tight down there. Are you getting noticeable chain slap with your current setup? What kind of tensioner are you using?
Perhaps go with a larger chainring and cog for a bit more clearance. Rennen make both larger rings (up to 50t) and cogs (up to 25t) so you can find your gearing. Need more clearance? Push your chainline outboard. Use the large chainring on your crankset and push the cog out. Dunno how much this will really help your issue. Just a thought...
Perhaps go with a larger chainring and cog for a bit more clearance. Rennen make both larger rings (up to 50t) and cogs (up to 25t) so you can find your gearing. Need more clearance? Push your chainline outboard. Use the large chainring on your crankset and push the cog out. Dunno how much this will really help your issue. Just a thought...
#7
Schwinn Magnet
Thread Starter
Join Date: Aug 2010
Location: Virginia
Posts: 458
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 0 Times
in
0 Posts
Originally Posted by commo_soulja
Perhaps go with a larger chainring and cog for a bit more clearance.
Originally Posted by commo_soulja
Rennen make both larger rings (up to 50t) and cogs (up to 25t) so you can find your gearing.
Originally Posted by commo_soulja
Push your chainline outboard. Use the large chainring on your crankset and push the cog out.
For now, I will go on the assumption that what I am looking for does not exist, enjoy the bike as-is, and try to grow some leg muscles . Thanks again for humouring me .
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
mazdaspeed
Singlespeed & Fixed Gear
4
10-18-11 05:50 PM