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  1. #1
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    Grease questions

    So i'm going to be putting my mountain bike back together with some new parts. Last thing i need though is grease. I have no idea about grease though. So some questions.

    What will need to be greased before being putting back together?
    What kind of grease/greases will i need?
    Can i get away with one grease for everything, or do different parts need different greases?

    Thanks, rabid

  2. #2
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    get a small tub of Nappa premium multi purpose wheel bearing and chassis grease, I think it's dualith under the nappa name, it smells and looks just like it, I use it for everything

  3. #3
    Quirky Grifter LesterOfPuppets's Avatar
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    Only one P in Napa, but yeah, automotive bearing grease on all bearings and threads. I like Tri-flo or the like for cables, derailer pivots, etc. I use a light motor oil 5w20 or something like that on my chain.

    I like Valvoline grease cuz it's red and reminds me of Bullshot grease, but smells funkier.
    1980ish Free Spirit Sunbird fixed * 1996 Mongoose IBOC Zero-G * 1997 KHS Comp * 1990-ish Scapin * Lemond Buenos Aires Triple

  4. #4
    In search of moar cowbell dminor's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by lostforawhile View Post
    get a small tub of Nappa premium multi purpose wheel bearing and chassis grease,. . . .
    Don't do this. I used to too; but wheelbearing grease is much heavier than necessary -- it's usually at least NLGI 2. What you want is a lighter NLGI 1 automotive grease, preferably a synthetic. Much better and cheaper than the little foo-foo qtys of bike grease.

    I have a tube of Amzoil synthetic general purpose NLGI 1 grease that does everything nicely. On top of that, it's nearly identical in viscocity to Manitou Prep-M grease so it works for rebuilding grease-lubricated forks.
    Last edited by dminor; 11-12-12 at 10:01 PM.

  5. #5
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    Quote Originally Posted by dminor View Post
    Don't do this. I used to too; but wheelbearing grease is much heavier than necessary -- it's usually at least NLGI 2. What you want is a lighter NLGI 1 automotive grease, preferably a synthetic. Much better and cheaper than the little foo-foo qtys of bike grease.

    I have a tube of Amzoil synthetic general purpose NLGI 1 grease that does everything nicely. On top of that, it's nearly identical in viscocity to Manitou Prep-M grease so it works for rebuilding grease-lubricated forks.
    this stuff isn't that heavy, I've used it for years at work and I've never had an issue with it, it's used on small bearings and various other mechanical parts in the aircraft and works very well, the Duralith was replaced with a new part number which is much heavier and messier, but the Napa grease still looks like Duralith, it's a light brown color, the heavy wheel bearings grease is usually blue

  6. #6
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    I use the good ol' Park Tool grease. It's got a good reputation in the bike world, doesn't cost much if you just need to do the occasional maintenance at home(under $10/tube - you could do several full bike builds with a tube), and the little applicator tip is more convenient and a lot less messy than bulk greases. I tried a couple others but went back to the Park since I don't need to worry about buying huge quantities at the cheapest price possible like a bike shop or something. It's good for everything from derailer wheels to bearings. Any decent quality bike grease(and some others) is good for most any maintenance on a bike unless the part states otherwise(some forks and other specialty parts).
    90 Miyata 914 with full Dura-Ace
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    Quote Originally Posted by scyclops View Post
    Oh yeah, sure, what if everyone thought that way? Then internet forums would merely be places where rational people exchange useful information and ideas - instead of the chaotic, emotionally-charged circuses that they are.

  7. #7
    Frozen in carbonite Grimlock's Avatar
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    If you're in Canada, Motomaster will work just fine.

    As for what to grease, virtually any metal-on-metal is a good starting point. Pedal threads, stem threads, starnut threads are all a go. Places not to grease include the bead of your rim, brake pads and rotor bolts (most will come with anti-seize pre-appplied).
    Quote Originally Posted by sp00ki View Post
    Using a nicer sealed bearing headset vs a $10 set is like throwing a frisbee vs a dodgeball.

  8. #8
    Senior Member TiBikeGuy's Avatar
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    Do not grease your chains ... Covering your chains with grease only makes the sand, grit, hair, etc. stick on the chain.

    For the hub and bottom bracket bearings, I like the Campagnolo grease.

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    I'd consider Phil Woods waterproof grease, Bel Ray waterproof grease, or Park Tools PPL2 moisture resistant lube. Marine boat trailer wheel bearing grease would be Ok as well.

  10. #10
    In search of moar cowbell dminor's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by 3speed View Post
    I use the good ol' Park Tool grease.
    I'm not cheap (well . . I am ) but I just have a real aversion to dropping $6 for a little bitty 4 oz tube vs $8 for a 14 oz. cartidge just because the former is packaged and marketed "for bicycles."

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    Quirky Grifter LesterOfPuppets's Avatar
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    I pay no more than $4/lb.
    1980ish Free Spirit Sunbird fixed * 1996 Mongoose IBOC Zero-G * 1997 KHS Comp * 1990-ish Scapin * Lemond Buenos Aires Triple

  12. #12
    use your best eye kenhill3's Avatar
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    Just to add, I use Permatex anti-seize on bottom bracket threads just to be on the safe side.
    "I tell you, We are here on earth to fart around, and don't let anybody tell you any different." - Kurt Vonnegut jr.

  13. #13
    In search of moar cowbell dminor's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by LesterOfPuppets View Post
    I pay no more than $4/lb.
    Ya, I spend a bit more because I want the 100% synthetic. Running syn. in my two-strokes made a believer ot of me.


    Quote Originally Posted by kenhill3 View Post
    Just to add, I use Permatex anti-seize on bottom bracket threads just to be on the safe side.
    I use it on pedal threads too. Good stuff for any steel/alu interface.

  14. #14
    Quirky Grifter LesterOfPuppets's Avatar
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    I did splurge on full syn 5w20 for my chain maybe ill go syn grease if Im feeling flush.

    Also grease your seatpost if its metal. Blue loctite on bscrew and vbrake centering screws, rack and fender bolts, brake mounting bolts.
    1980ish Free Spirit Sunbird fixed * 1996 Mongoose IBOC Zero-G * 1997 KHS Comp * 1990-ish Scapin * Lemond Buenos Aires Triple

  15. #15
    Frozen in carbonite Grimlock's Avatar
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    I don't want to have to dig up the retro-grouch thread but one should definitely grease his or her quill stem and wedge bolt.
    Quote Originally Posted by sp00ki View Post
    Using a nicer sealed bearing headset vs a $10 set is like throwing a frisbee vs a dodgeball.

  16. #16
    Senior Member Papa Wheelie's Avatar
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    Get you a set of 30 wt ball bearings (it is all ball bearings these days), and about 10 quarts of anti-freeze. Prestone. No, make that Quaker State.

  17. #17
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    you dont need full synthetic grease, nothing in a bike is so heavily loaded that it needs that kind of grease, any kind of light high quality grease will work just fine, people have been greasing bikes with regular grease since there have been bikes,

  18. #18
    coprolite fietsbob's Avatar
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    I've Used Boat Trailer Wheel bearing Grease. for Decades.

  19. #19
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    Quote Originally Posted by fietsbob View Post
    I've Used Boat Trailer Wheel bearing Grease. for Decades.
    I was going to say Lucas, it's the red grease, it's also waterproof, thats often also referred to as boat trailer grease

  20. #20
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    Quote Originally Posted by Grimlock View Post
    I don't want to have to dig up the retro-grouch thread but one should definitely grease his or her quill stem and wedge bolt.
    And seatpost. But never, ever, grease a square-taper bottom bracket, or you will go to hell.

    FWIW, I bought a tub of Schwinn grease in 1997 or 1998, and I have only made my way through about a third of it to date.
    My speculation was that it applies to some degree in cycling, and I used the previous proof as my reasoning, but I can't prove how exactly it applies to it and to what degree. That, I have admitted, is speculation based on reasoning, but not at this point provable.

  21. #21
    In search of moar cowbell dminor's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by lostforawhile View Post
    you dont need full synthetic grease, . . .
    Of course you don't need it; but when it's so cheap, why not treat your bike to the best?

  22. #22
    Quirky Grifter LesterOfPuppets's Avatar
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    If I ever hit the lottery it'll be nothing but that radioactive Shimano slime for my rigs!

    1980ish Free Spirit Sunbird fixed * 1996 Mongoose IBOC Zero-G * 1997 KHS Comp * 1990-ish Scapin * Lemond Buenos Aires Triple

  23. #23
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    because it's a waste of money, any high quality standard grease is more then adequate for about any bike on the road, the manufacturers of the synthetic grease will tell you otherwise, but they are biased of course

  24. #24
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    Thanks for all the replies guys! Really informative.

    Most of you answered what kind of grease. How about my other question, what parts do i need to grease? (BB, chain, rear cassette, rear derailleur? Any of those? All of them? Anything else?)

  25. #25
    Quirky Grifter LesterOfPuppets's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by xxrabid93 View Post
    Thanks for all the replies guys! Really informative.

    Most of you answered what kind of grease. How about my other question, what parts do i need to grease? (BB, chain, rear cassette, rear derailleur? Any of those? All of them? Anything else?)
    I tried to cover everything I grease in post #3. Some of the bottom brackets I have aren't repackable. Depending on your bike you may may have unpackable headset or hubs also.

    I use light motor oil on my chain.

    I don't put any lube at all on cassettes. I use TriFlow on rear derailer pivots.
    1980ish Free Spirit Sunbird fixed * 1996 Mongoose IBOC Zero-G * 1997 KHS Comp * 1990-ish Scapin * Lemond Buenos Aires Triple

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