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  1. #1
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    3 week old bike, already getting rust spots?

    i do live in wisconsin and have taken it out on my subdivision roads, so there is salt. (just riding it around waiting for snow to melt and trails to be ride-able) i have cleaned it, or at least i thought i did, well enough after each ride. just by hosing it down and drying with a rag.

    but noticed today after putting on new pedals that my cassette looks like this.. very worried about it.

    im still really new and maintaining my bike. what can i do to fix this?


    forgot to add a picture

    http://i.imgur.com/alMCre8.jpg
    Last edited by Psynide; 03-15-13 at 12:52 PM.

  2. #2
    aka Phil Jungels Wanderer's Avatar
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    Clean it up, and wipe it with a slightly oiled piece of cloth.

    "Retirement is the best job I ever had!" Me, 2009


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  3. #3
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    Huh. Well that rusted quickly. Must not have had much oil/grease on it to begin with. I agree with Wanderer about wiping it with an oiled piece of cloth. If you have a copper wire brush, that would be a good option for taking the rust off.
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    Quote Originally Posted by scyclops View Post
    Oh yeah, sure, what if everyone thought that way? Then internet forums would merely be places where rational people exchange useful information and ideas - instead of the chaotic, emotionally-charged circuses that they are.

  4. #4
    Junior Member
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    what oil would you recommend? i cleaned it with some bike degreaser and re lubed my chain and what not. its looking good now, at least to me it does.

    i actually noticed my front disc brake is rusted a bit. peeved at that. also squeaks like crazy when i used my front brake. but its done that since i bought it. does it just need to be broken in a bit? my rear brake did that as well but now it doesn't make a noise when i break.

    also heres my front disc. http://i.imgur.com/Z3Jlmgy.jpg
    thoughts?

  5. #5
    Pedals, Paddles and Poles Daspydyr's Avatar
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    Its good that you pay attention to these details. What degreaser are you using. I tried using some vinegar once, HUGE mistake! everything turned to rust. I use simple green for cleaning. Some solvents take off any finish that might protect the metals and rust pops out everywhere.
    I think its disgusting and terrible how people treat Lance Armstrong, especially after winning 7 Tour de France Titles while on drugs!

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  6. #6
    Junior Member
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    finish line citrus degreaser. the guys at the lbs recommended it to me.

  7. #7
    one less horse cryptid01's Avatar
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    So much out and out wrong in this thread. One respondent recommends grease, another recommends degreaser?

    Psynde, if riding in wet/salty conditions, use some sort of water resistant penetrant/lubricant/protectant, e.g. Tri-Flow, WD-40, etc. A light spray and a quick wipedown of any excess should keep things rust free til spring.

    Make sure not to get it on your brakes and rotors if you have them since I don't want to have to summarily ridicule those giving you advice to bake the pads in the oven or other such nonsense.

    Use brake cleaner on your rotor.
    Last edited by cryptid01; 03-15-13 at 06:33 PM.

  8. #8
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    do you have a specific brand of brake cleaner you like to you cryptid01?

    im only riding in salty conditions because i cant help riding my shiny new bike. i probably should have waited to spring anyways to buy the bike, but i like the guys at my lbs and they really appreciated the business during the slow months at the store.



    also that being said, sucks cleaning a bike without a repair stand. might as well ask the question in here instead of making a new thread. for those who have a repair stand, preferred under $200, what do you like about yours?
    Last edited by Psynide; 03-15-13 at 06:50 PM.

  9. #9
    Man of constant sorrow Dudelsack's Avatar
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    I ordered the basic Park stand off ebay for like $75 and it works, although its heavy.

    I would google Feedback Sports and look at their products. I might buy one myself.

    I recently cleaned my cassette with dilute Simple Green, then sprayed it with WD40. I didn't get any on my BB5 brake pads, but I baked them anyway because I love the smell of fresh brake pads in the morning.

    Don't forget to floss!
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  10. #10
    one less horse cryptid01's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Psynide View Post
    do you have a specific brand of brake cleaner you like to you cryptid01?

    im only riding in salty conditions because i cant help riding my shiny new bike. i probably should have waited to spring anyways to buy the bike, but i like the guys at my lbs and they really appreciated the business during the slow months at the store.
    I find the CRC non chlorinated stuff in the green can at autozone works pretty well.

  11. #11
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    Alcohol is another good option for cleaning rotors. Then you can also use it to clean your wounds after a good tumble in a high speed turn.

    Quote Originally Posted by cryptid01 View Post
    Make sure not to get it on your brakes and rotors if you have them since I don't want to have to summarily ridicule those giving you advice to bake the pads in the oven or other such nonsense.
    As confirmed by myself and many others, baking absolutely does work for contaminated pads, at least with very high frequency. Due to how it works, I don't see why it wouldn't work basically 100% of the time. It is a great option for dealing with squealing, etc, due to contamination. If OP does get some WD-40 on his rear rotor while spraying the cassette, the pad is going to be crap after that. Unless he bakes it. Then it'll be good as new. Why do you think baking pads is nonsense?
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    Quote Originally Posted by scyclops View Post
    Oh yeah, sure, what if everyone thought that way? Then internet forums would merely be places where rational people exchange useful information and ideas - instead of the chaotic, emotionally-charged circuses that they are.

  12. #12
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    ill watch out for stuff getting into the brake pads. ive never heard of baking pads until this thread, very interesting. hah. thanks for all the help and advice

  13. #13
    one less horse cryptid01's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by 3speed View Post
    As confirmed by myself and many others, baking absolutely does work for contaminated pads, at least with very high frequency
    I try not to take mechanical advice from people who don't know enough to keep contaminants off their brake pads.

  14. #14
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    Quote Originally Posted by cryptid01 View Post
    I try not to take mechanical advice from people who don't know enough to keep contaminants off their brake pads.
    In other words you have no actual reason, so you will try to take the "resort to insults" path? Sounds good...

    And not that it matters, because mistakes happen and no one is perfect, brake pads get contaminated, etc, but in my particular case it was on a free used bike where the PO felt the need to completely coat the entire drive train in ridiculous amounts of oil/grease. Some of that ended up on the brake pads and they were completely crap when I got the bike. The pads barely stopped the bike and caused the rotor to squealed a lot. I baked them, cleaned the rotor with alcohol, and they work just great. No need to spend the time going shopping and spend the $20 on new pads and brake cleaner for the rotors. Why would I want to do that if I can very easily fix the problem for free without ever leaving the house? That would just be silly and a waste of time and money. But I guess if someone just likes spending money and doing things the hard way...
    90 Miyata 914 with full Dura-Ace
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    Quote Originally Posted by scyclops View Post
    Oh yeah, sure, what if everyone thought that way? Then internet forums would merely be places where rational people exchange useful information and ideas - instead of the chaotic, emotionally-charged circuses that they are.

  15. #15
    one less horse cryptid01's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by 3speed View Post
    In other words you have no actual reason, so you will try to take the "resort to insults" path?
    I gave fair warning that you would be ridiculed.

    Quote Originally Posted by 3speed View Post
    And not that it matters, because mistakes happen and no one is perfect, brake pads get contaminated, etc,
    I'm sure they work just fine for you and the type of riding you do. Stay rad dude.

  16. #16
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    one more question. saw this book on amazon, anyone have it and recommend it?

    like i said before im still pretty bad with knowing the ins and outs of bike maintenance and obviously want to get better so my bikes last as long as possible. would it make sense to buy or should i just use google as my go to for answerS?

  17. #17
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    I haven't looked through it, but that looks like a pretty solid book. It's also got a huge collection of positive reviews from newbies and people in the bike industry. Looks like a good buy.

    Edit here because it's annoying trying to explain something to someone in person if they don't want to listen, and pointless if it's a stranger online.
    Last edited by 3speed; 03-17-13 at 08:45 AM.
    90 Miyata 914 with full Dura-Ace
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    80s Cierra Professional 5000, Tange Champion 2 and Shimano 600
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    Quote Originally Posted by scyclops View Post
    Oh yeah, sure, what if everyone thought that way? Then internet forums would merely be places where rational people exchange useful information and ideas - instead of the chaotic, emotionally-charged circuses that they are.

  18. #18
    Certified Bike Brat Burton's Avatar
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    I'm not going to argue about whether 'baking' works or not - just that this statement doesn't make any sense to me:
    Baking just cooks off the oil, etc, that contaminated the pads.
    Bread and cookies are typically baked at 350 degrees. That's about the same temperate as oil in a deep frier - which obviously doesn't 'cook off the oil' in the frier.

    Maybe I'm dumb, but I either just sand the pads or replace them.

  19. #19
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    Quote Originally Posted by Burton View Post
    Bread and cookies are typically baked at 350 degrees. That's about the same temperate as oil in a deep frier - which obviously doesn't 'cook off the oil' in the frier.
    Actually the oil in your fryer does get cooked away. If you put just a little bit of oil in your fryer, it wouldn't take very long before it was gone. I assume it would also take longer to cook away a bowl of WD-40 than a light coating. But I think the main difference is that it's also a different kind of oil. If you put heat to something like WD-40 or chain lube, they start to smoke and cook away very quickly. Fryer oil doesn't do that. Maybe if you dunked some pads in veggie oil it wouldn't bake out as easily as WD-40.
    90 Miyata 914 with full Dura-Ace
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    80s Cierra Professional 5000, Tange Champion 2 and Shimano 600
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    Quote Originally Posted by scyclops View Post
    Oh yeah, sure, what if everyone thought that way? Then internet forums would merely be places where rational people exchange useful information and ideas - instead of the chaotic, emotionally-charged circuses that they are.

  20. #20
    Certified Bike Brat Burton's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by 3speed View Post
    Actually the oil in your fryer does get cooked away. If you put just a little bit of oil in your fryer, it wouldn't take very long before it was gone. I assume it would also take longer to cook away a bowl of WD-40 than a light coating. But I think the main difference is that it's also a different kind of oil. If you put heat to something like WD-40 or chain lube, they start to smoke and cook away very quickly. Fryer oil doesn't do that. Maybe if you dunked some pads in veggie oil it wouldn't bake out as easily as WD-40.
    No idea. The MSDS for WD40 gives its boiling point as 361 - 369 degrees F with no indication if secondary products remain afterwards as is the case with most oils.

  21. #21
    one less horse cryptid01's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by 3speed
    Baking doesn't get them hot enough to affect the brake pad material(they get plenty hot when you use them for extended periods of time) and they will work well after baking as long as they did before they were contaminated. Baking just cooks off the oil, etc, that contaminated the pads.
    Based upon the above statement, it would seem that merely using the brakes would generate enough heat to cook off any contaminants, which would render the use of ovens or other kitchen appliances unnecessary anyway. Is that right?

    I view brake pads the same way as I view helmets or any other safety item - if there's any question its performance may be compromised, I'm going to err on the side of caution and replace it.

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