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Old 02-15-05, 04:36 PM   #1
jeff williams
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What's the opinions on braced riser bars?

Bars can snap....I'm a phobe. My last non Ritchey bars were alu 5mm wall.
I dislike bar flex, and it will weaken the metal.

Now I'm using a bolt on Alu brace, I was into the Bontrager Crowbar.
Non suspension and small jumping - I do put a lot of force pulling and pressing on the bars.

I'm running an older chromed, chromoly Ritchey stem to the original threaded solid fork. (no bolt down faceplate.)

So I'm a bolt on guy, not expensive bars, but reinforced. I don't mind the little added weight.
Is this a good idea with mid level component metals?

Bontrager was a welded brace, mine is moveable so you can adjust the amount of resistance a little.

??
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Old 02-15-05, 05:22 PM   #2
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how about go for a nicer/beefier DH/FR riser bar, without the clamp on brace?

two fewer clamps to possibly introduce stress risers to your bars.........

i'm a fan of the Azonic Double wall bars, as well as the Answer protaper bars.

good blends of strength/weight/durability.
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Old 02-15-05, 05:27 PM   #3
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jeff williams
Bars can snap....I'm a phobe. My last non Ritchey bars were alu 5mm wall.
I dislike bar flex, and it will weaken the metal.

Now I'm using a bolt on Alu brace, I was into the Bontrager Crowbar.
Non suspension and small jumping - I do put a lot of force pulling and pressing on the bars.

I'm running an older chromed, chromoly Ritchey stem to the original threaded solid fork. (no bolt down faceplate.)

So I'm a bolt on guy, not expensive bars, but reinforced. I don't mind the little added weight.
Is this a good idea with mid level component metals?

Bontrager was a welded brace, mine is moveable so you can adjust the amount of resistance a little.

??
I think you should be worried more about your frame then then your bars...the setup you have sounds pretty beefy for the bars...however, you have an old-school frame, which, beleive it or not, was not designed for jumping and abuse.
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Old 02-15-05, 05:30 PM   #4
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Phatman
I think you should be worried more about your frame then then your bars...the setup you have sounds pretty beefy for the bars...however, you have an old-school frame, which, beleive it or not, was not designed for jumping and abuse.
I whole heartedly agree
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Old 02-15-05, 05:59 PM   #5
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I agree to an extent about the frame, but I would be more worried with the steerer and stem. I have broken a stem and folded a handlebar before. It was old school steel, so it was lesser quality, but the point remains if it is a higher rise it will flex without bracing. If they designed the bar without a brace, as many are now, then it is of lesser consequence to have it. I like the complete look of having a brace if I have a higher rise.
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Old 02-15-05, 06:02 PM   #6
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Im using DMR Wingbars, i like them, not sure about the weight but they have a bar across the top to stop up and downwards flex, seems to work well for me, and the bars are only about 20 a set
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Old 02-15-05, 06:31 PM   #7
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I once had a set of Brahma bars snap upon take-off over Lake Powhatan Dam. Talk about a horrific crash to follow.... Not a good feeling to be airbourne with one side of your bars sheared-off at the stem and just dangling in your hand.....
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Old 02-15-05, 06:49 PM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Raiyn
I whole heartedly agree
from what i've seen/heard of his setup, i third this.
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Old 02-15-05, 07:01 PM   #9
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A riding buddy just got the Azonic Ultracross:



It's definitely sturdy and reasonably light, considering the extra hardware.

Another option may be a 31.8 mm stem and oversized bar. I am currently riding that setup, and
it is rock solid and very confidence inspiring.
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Old 02-15-05, 10:06 PM   #10
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Ive always liked the Azonic bar. I currently use straight bars since I do mostly racing now, but I used to use risers a lot(good for shorter arms
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Old 02-15-05, 10:21 PM   #11
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if it's stronger and you want that bad boy! go for it...sounds like a plan to me
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Old 02-16-05, 02:17 AM   #12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by scrublover
from what i've seen/heard of his setup, i third this.
No. You don't ride Ritchey, your welder is a tool, don't try to compare Toms welding to oversize alu framesets. The WHOLE bike flexes.

I don't jump to flat over 3 feet unless a tranny. I can land the bike 3 feet rigid fork flat...kinda off the trail and I'm not trying, more surviving.
I weigh 150. My frame is made of THICK TUBES OF STEEL. Same geom as the link..maybe 1- 2 mm thicker tubing.

My flex problems are lower, nothing front. Except bar strength. ....Brazed fitteted stuff.
Not going to break.

This a later XC version.http://www.oldmountainbikes.com/cgi-....cgi?bike=7P39 Never seen a seat so high
http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll...sPageName=WDVW

..forget knocking my frame.

The thread is about bars.

Last edited by jeff williams; 02-16-05 at 02:59 AM.
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Old 02-16-05, 09:54 AM   #13
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Jeff, that stem will break before the bars will. It is long and encounters significant torsional loading.

Which is not to say, of course, that the stem will break anytime soon...it just happens to be the weak point in your forward controls.
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Old 02-16-05, 11:13 AM   #14
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yes..the stem will break before the headtube snaps, the stuff is designed that way.
The stem bolt is not cranked down, it will destruct first.
My mech is my friend\ works mostly on dh and fr bikes northshore, and would point out any design defects in my build.
When I put the stem on he was the one who advised tension on the stem bolt.
He dislikes the bars.

The failure chain is bolt then stem and Ritcheys don't snap, they fold.
The race frames that I read about that were destroyed bent.
Tube failure not weld, because the bike do have torsional flex lower, they will bend if smacked foreward and down on a exteme angle.

I'd rather that than the headtube breaking really.

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Old 02-16-05, 12:57 PM   #15
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Jeff, heres a simple answer. I don't think they are required. Back in the day (down 1 for example) people were using them because technology hadn't caught up to the riders or riding. Now I don't think I have seen a braced handlebar live in 4 years. (except on the bmx style mtbikes, but they are going huge) I honestly think you don't have to worry about it
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Old 02-16-05, 01:14 PM   #16
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thanks, never broken a bar, just read about it.
I noticed this years Bontrager crowbars DON'T have the welded brace, why I was asking about them.
My bars have more rise than most, the company added the brace, yes they may be bmx type design adaptation.

I have HQ race bars, but they are flats, I guess I'll buy some Easton CF riser ones.
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Old 02-16-05, 01:15 PM   #17
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dude, chill out.

i'm not knocking your frame, or setup. i would love to have a ritchey frame! i know what they are, and have no problem with it. all we're aying is you setup *appears* to be very beefy on a frame not designed for that. will it break? probably not.

FWIW, i have one alu bike out of six. the rest are steel. where did i ever compare your steel to alu frames, eh? or anything about tom's welding? reading comprehension is a goood thing, ya know?

i'm sure paul over at peytocycles.com would love to hear that you consider him a tool. he is the builder who did my main ride.
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Old 02-16-05, 03:02 PM   #18
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Quote:
Originally Posted by scrublover
dude, chill out.

i'm not knocking your frame, or setup. i would love to have a ritchey frame! i know what they are, and have no problem with it. all we're aying is you setup *appears* to be very beefy on a frame not designed for that. will it break? probably not.

FWIW, i have one alu bike out of six. the rest are steel. where did i ever compare your steel to alu frames, eh? or anything about tom's welding? reading comprehension is a goood thing, ya know?

i'm sure paul over at peytocycles.com would love to hear that you consider him a tool. he is the builder who did my main ride.
Sure you were were, whatever =it's probably not the best front end.
When the headset dies i'll put in threadless and the suspension fork. Since the fork, headset and stem function well, I consider (many times) the removal of a working system just 'keeping up with my peers'.

When it wrecks, it will be replaced with a more modern system.

Sorry a bout dissin', I ment to say your welder was a machine.
Still incorrect.
Most people ride Alu frames and have little idea that steel bikes are made to flex... or that completely rigid systems are more likely to stress at the joins.


Nice that you know who built your frame, I'm sure it's a sweet bike and not post-modern like mine at all.

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Old 02-16-05, 03:37 PM   #19
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mtbikerinpa
I agree to an extent about the frame, but I would be more worried with the steerer and stem. I have broken a stem and folded a handlebar before. It was old school steel, so it was lesser quality, but the point remains if it is a higher rise it will flex without bracing. If they designed the bar without a brace, as many are now, then it is of lesser consequence to have it. I like the complete look of having a brace if I have a higher rise.
I don't mind the look, don't like the weight. and because they are economy bars w\ high riser =the brace stays. I'm just cheap...now I need some expensive flashy crap. Ya - I saw some nice stuff around $80-100.

I've repeatedly said i'm riding xc, because I CAN land the bike off a drop doesn't mean I do it all the time or go looking for it. I suffer as much as the bike does. Little jumps and big hops.


I'm trying not to damage the bike, sheesh...I'm not monster to it..
I've jumped it 3 feet to flat ground a few times to see if it was good to go, me as well.
I was practicing keeping my feet on the peds, I came off once and sunk the pedal pins into my leg.
And I've gone down a few wrong runs and had the hell scared out of me.

The bikes better at it than me.

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Old 02-16-05, 06:30 PM   #20
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Actually the time I bent the bar was not even a foot and a half. I was going really fast and landed flat on an undamped fork. BAM. Something had to give, and it was the high rise bar. Made for an awkward ride home(right grip down 45 degrees). For stems, I will not buy a removable face stem unless it is 4 bolts or an easton style hinge face. The face on one stem was 2 bolt and it ripped the threads right off. Left me 2 miles from the car in the middle of the city at night. I have never gone bigger than 3 ft, and that was tranny.
I am curious however about the handling of such a long stem. My Sedona came with a similar stem and I could never handle it propperly until I got a short stem. To each their own I suppose.
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Old 02-16-05, 07:07 PM   #21
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The stem measures 140mm from mid bar to center of the bolt.
My toptube is 21 inches =why the long stem. The front end runs great, a shorter stem would be nice for more leverage over the tire, but everything fits perfectly, no hand pressure.
I did try a different stem, a Tioga? piece of cr@p, same length, but shorter tube.
Totally unsafe, lots of torsion.This stem is of equal length and hight.
Quite solid, found it later, nice parts for 1 inch are scarce.

Now I'm all phobic about the stem snapping. Thanks guys.

mtnbikerinpa, you mentioned your shop had 1 inch steerer suspension forks?
would you mind having a look for something servicable?
80-90mm travel I guess. Oh and lockout..(kidding, would be nice..) No rush, see anything YOU judge to be good enough, please p.m me.
And thanks for all your great informative posts.

You race offroad, wrench bikes and look pretty..and I forgot, aviation mech. Geez..what a dream girl.
Probably stomp me racing too.

Cool.

Last edited by jeff williams; 02-17-05 at 01:19 AM.
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