Help Creaking
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Help Creaking
I bought a Fuji Outland, it has a full susp (Radian spring) i think. And I cannot get the bike to stop "creaking" . I have taken it back to the bike shop 5+ times and a couple days later same thing. It's not the seat or stem/fork it was first the "joint" for the rear susp, then shop re-greased, then the crank set (shop re-greased) , it was creaking again a couple days later , I took it in , they said the bike may not have been greased at all at time of assembly , left the bike there again for a few days, the bracket that has the rear susp was making a creaking sound a few days later, tightened that and now more "creaking" I cant tell where from but not seat or fork/stem???? any help please, should I trash the bike as a piss poor design flaw,? should i take it back? Just an FYI I wouldn't even be here if i wan't on my last straw with this bike.
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You have choices, short of finding the squeak yourself.
1- you can tell the shop they either find and fix the problem or take it back and refund your money.
2- you can ignore the squeaking and just live with it, but ONLY if the shop accepts responsibility for any consequences of ignoring the "problem".
3- you can become a detective, and identify the specific origin. You do this by process of elimination, by treating one item only, until you find the one that matters. That's how I suggest the shop approaches the issue, but it's up to them
Also keep in mind that it may have nothing to do with the suspension, and it might be the seatpost or saddle itself.
I always attack these by what I described method 3. To make it easier, I made up a bottle of heavy oil, thinned with naphtha until it pouts like gin. I apply it to suspect areas and let it wick in. I do one place at a time until I find the one that solves the problem. Because there's so little oil, the problem will come back, but now I know where to put my attention.
Also note that if there are any rubber parts involved, you may do better with a silicone grease (also sold as O-ring grease), than one intended foe bearings.
So, that's all I have for you, especially since I'm working deaf and blind, but maybe if you bring this to the shop, and speak to them about getting this solved in X number of tries or take the bike back, you can motivate them to get this solved for you.
1- you can tell the shop they either find and fix the problem or take it back and refund your money.
2- you can ignore the squeaking and just live with it, but ONLY if the shop accepts responsibility for any consequences of ignoring the "problem".
3- you can become a detective, and identify the specific origin. You do this by process of elimination, by treating one item only, until you find the one that matters. That's how I suggest the shop approaches the issue, but it's up to them
Also keep in mind that it may have nothing to do with the suspension, and it might be the seatpost or saddle itself.
I always attack these by what I described method 3. To make it easier, I made up a bottle of heavy oil, thinned with naphtha until it pouts like gin. I apply it to suspect areas and let it wick in. I do one place at a time until I find the one that solves the problem. Because there's so little oil, the problem will come back, but now I know where to put my attention.
Also note that if there are any rubber parts involved, you may do better with a silicone grease (also sold as O-ring grease), than one intended foe bearings.
So, that's all I have for you, especially since I'm working deaf and blind, but maybe if you bring this to the shop, and speak to them about getting this solved in X number of tries or take the bike back, you can motivate them to get this solved for you.
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An ounce of diagnosis is worth a pound of cure.
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FB
Chain-L site
An ounce of diagnosis is worth a pound of cure.
Just because I'm tired of arguing, doesn't mean you're right.
“One accurate measurement is worth a thousand expert opinions” - Adm Grace Murray Hopper - USN
WARNING, I'm from New York. Thin skinned people should maintain safe distance.
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I hear you with taking it back, I just don't want to be a D**K about it. I'm don't know a whole lot about the bike and parts so I don't want to mess something up and they not cover damages for my ignorance. The seat/post and stem/neck/fork are the first things I checked and i'm 100% sure its from the middle somewhere like the crank or something.
#5
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Make sure the quick releases or thru axles are tight.
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However, it's a new bike, and the creak wasn't on the spec sheet, so after they joke about not charging you for it, it's their problem to fix and deliver a working -- non-creaking -- bike.
You should be nice about it, but firm because it's their problem and they shouldn't make it yours.
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An ounce of diagnosis is worth a pound of cure.
Just because I'm tired of arguing, doesn't mean you're right.
“One accurate measurement is worth a thousand expert opinions” - Adm Grace Murray Hopper - USN
WARNING, I'm from New York. Thin skinned people should maintain safe distance.
FB
Chain-L site
An ounce of diagnosis is worth a pound of cure.
Just because I'm tired of arguing, doesn't mean you're right.
“One accurate measurement is worth a thousand expert opinions” - Adm Grace Murray Hopper - USN
WARNING, I'm from New York. Thin skinned people should maintain safe distance.
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Since this is an entry level mountain bike and you think it might be the suspension bearings...the suspension bearings are probably cheap. I would ask for an upgrade to Enduro Max suspension bearings to fix the problem.
Other areas to check...tighten the chainring bolts or maybe it the PF30 bottom bracket that like to creak on the majority of bikes that use it. Wheels manufacturing makes a replacement for PF30 with cups that thread together.
Other areas to check...tighten the chainring bolts or maybe it the PF30 bottom bracket that like to creak on the majority of bikes that use it. Wheels manufacturing makes a replacement for PF30 with cups that thread together.
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