I want a mountain bike. Where do I start?
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I want a mountain bike. Where do I start?
I'm going to start shopping for a mountain bike...I'm ready to buy now, but I'm picky. lol But where do I even start? My bucket-list goal is to do the Leadville 100 race. I'm very short...5'5"...so 29er's just don't seem to fit well. My riding/racing background is road, crit, one time trial, bunch of triathlons, cyclocross races, and gravel road races. But I've never really done a lot of mtb riding. I used to own a cheapy Giant Yukon but only rode it on dirt roads...and not very much at that.
Do I need a 26"? 650B? Full suspension? Hardtail?
And what brands should I be looking at? I'm sort of a weight weenie with road and cross bikes (13 lbs Gaulzetti alloy road bike, 15 lbs titanium cross bike). I saw a 20lbs titanium mtb on bikesdirect but it's never available...always out of stock. Is that a good option though? I'm not averse to spending a bit of coin...I usually do for this crazy bike hobby. So my budget is up to $8000. But, of course, my preference is whatever the sweet spot is for return on investment.
Also...what to mtb people run for tires? Tubies? Tubeless? Clinchers? For road and cross, I run clinchers for training and tubular for racing.
Thanks a ton!!!!!!
Do I need a 26"? 650B? Full suspension? Hardtail?
And what brands should I be looking at? I'm sort of a weight weenie with road and cross bikes (13 lbs Gaulzetti alloy road bike, 15 lbs titanium cross bike). I saw a 20lbs titanium mtb on bikesdirect but it's never available...always out of stock. Is that a good option though? I'm not averse to spending a bit of coin...I usually do for this crazy bike hobby. So my budget is up to $8000. But, of course, my preference is whatever the sweet spot is for return on investment.
Also...what to mtb people run for tires? Tubies? Tubeless? Clinchers? For road and cross, I run clinchers for training and tubular for racing.
Thanks a ton!!!!!!
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I would say with that money you coud go for Carbon Fiber FS bike. And the best option is for sure 27,5". Check out Trek and Scott. If you go for 26er, then look at Specialized. Check some bike with brain.
I understand you don't feel well with 29er but whay don't you try a HT in M or S Size: I got a Trek X-Caliber and it rides very well in all kind of terrain...
You might get two bkes: one FS and one HT.
I understand you don't feel well with 29er but whay don't you try a HT in M or S Size: I got a Trek X-Caliber and it rides very well in all kind of terrain...
You might get two bkes: one FS and one HT.
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OP, Fortunatley or unfortunatley, IMHO the best way to figure out what you want is to buy a MTB and ride for a while. As for brands, take your pick there are many. I like Specialized, but that's a personal preference. One bit of advice on size, er on the side of smaller size, not larger. At 5' 5", a M size is the max I would consider and only if it was a 17" frame, no way I'd start out with a 18" frame. You might want smaller, like a 15" frame. I bought my Stumpy hardtail used from a 5'4" woman who raced it and I'm a tad over 5' 8". But I like a smaller frame that I can throw around. I like the recommendation to go for a CF frame, that's what I'd like to get for my next bike. Also I like air forks, they're lighter and typically higher quality than basic forks. Hope this helps and good luck with your search. After you find a few bikes, post again asking about them on the forums.
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MTB's don't use tubulars, so your stuck with clinchers. Are you a troll or was that a troll filter?
Assuming your not a troll:
Three things you mention:
1, you are not new to cycling, and own a few bikes. You probably have access to at least a crap MTB.
2, you want bang for buck
3, your budget is 8K
So why don't you use any bike you can get your paws on and go have a look at the local trails, come home and spend 1K on whatever you think is the closest fit to you , your riding style and the trails. Quit the bike after six months and get $500 for it. (realistic). Think about the school kid that's going to buy the 1K bike for $500 and love it!
Remember, that bike cost you $20 a week, and you've had fun from it and learned from it.
Then spend the 8K on a bike, by now you will know exactly what you want and spend wisely, let's say 8 K and you get five years good use from it, after five years riding one bike, you will think, I've got my money's worth, you can write the bike off as money well spent.
8K over 5 years is $32 a week, lots more than what the "test bike" cost!
And you can call the $500 on the test bike a "donation to the sport", helping some school kid have a go if you like.
Win / win!
Oh, and buy from your local bike shop, Cost me $100 extra to buy from my LBS than buying over the interweb, has saved me MUCH more that that since, and next time I have an issue, LBS will give advice for free, something they cannot do if nobody buys there and they go out of business.
FD
Assuming your not a troll:
Three things you mention:
1, you are not new to cycling, and own a few bikes. You probably have access to at least a crap MTB.
2, you want bang for buck
3, your budget is 8K
So why don't you use any bike you can get your paws on and go have a look at the local trails, come home and spend 1K on whatever you think is the closest fit to you , your riding style and the trails. Quit the bike after six months and get $500 for it. (realistic). Think about the school kid that's going to buy the 1K bike for $500 and love it!
Remember, that bike cost you $20 a week, and you've had fun from it and learned from it.
Then spend the 8K on a bike, by now you will know exactly what you want and spend wisely, let's say 8 K and you get five years good use from it, after five years riding one bike, you will think, I've got my money's worth, you can write the bike off as money well spent.
8K over 5 years is $32 a week, lots more than what the "test bike" cost!
And you can call the $500 on the test bike a "donation to the sport", helping some school kid have a go if you like.
Win / win!
Oh, and buy from your local bike shop, Cost me $100 extra to buy from my LBS than buying over the interweb, has saved me MUCH more that that since, and next time I have an issue, LBS will give advice for free, something they cannot do if nobody buys there and they go out of business.
FD
Last edited by floating dutchy; 11-01-13 at 02:11 AM. Reason: Having a bad maths day
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OP, Fortunatley or unfortunatley, IMHO the best way to figure out what you want is to buy a MTB and ride for a while. As for brands, take your pick there are many. I like Specialized, but that's a personal preference. One bit of advice on size, er on the side of smaller size, not larger. At 5' 5", a M size is the max I would consider and only if it was a 17" frame, no way I'd start out with a 18" frame. You might want smaller, like a 15" frame. I bought my Stumpy hardtail used from a 5'4" woman who raced it and I'm a tad over 5' 8". But I like a smaller frame that I can throw around. I like the recommendation to go for a CF frame, that's what I'd like to get for my next bike. Also I like air forks, they're lighter and typically higher quality than basic forks. Hope this helps and good luck with your search. After you find a few bikes, post again asking about them on the forums.
As for CF...are they durable? I got ride of my CF road bikes and cyclocross bike because I just got sick of worrying about them if I dropped them or crashed. I'm leaning towards aluminum or titanium for my first mountain bike. And I thought I read that Ritchey built up a very light steel mtb?
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MTB's don't use tubulars, so your stuck with clinchers. Are you a troll or was that a troll filter?
Assuming your not a troll:
Three things you mention:
1, you are not new to cycling, and own a few bikes. You probably have access to at least a crap MTB.
2, you want bang for buck
3, your budget is 8K
So why don't you use any bike you can get your paws on and go have a look at the local trails, come home and spend 1K on whatever you think is the closest fit to you , your riding style and the trails. Quit the bike after six months and get $500 for it. (realistic). Think about the school kid that's going to buy the 1K bike for $500 and love it!
Remember, that bike cost you $20 a week, and you've had fun from it and learned from it.
Then spend the 8K on a bike, by now you will know exactly what you want and spend wisely, let's say 8 K and you get five years good use from it, after five years riding one bike, you will think, I've got my money's worth, you can write the bike off as money well spent.
8K over 5 years is $32 a week, lots more than what the "test bike" cost!
And you can call the $500 on the test bike a "donation to the sport", helping some school kid have a go if you like.
Win / win!
Oh, and buy from your local bike shop, Cost me $100 extra to buy from my LBS than buying over the interweb, has saved me MUCH more that that since, and next time I have an issue, LBS will give advice for free, something they cannot do if nobody buys there and they go out of business.
FD
Assuming your not a troll:
Three things you mention:
1, you are not new to cycling, and own a few bikes. You probably have access to at least a crap MTB.
2, you want bang for buck
3, your budget is 8K
So why don't you use any bike you can get your paws on and go have a look at the local trails, come home and spend 1K on whatever you think is the closest fit to you , your riding style and the trails. Quit the bike after six months and get $500 for it. (realistic). Think about the school kid that's going to buy the 1K bike for $500 and love it!
Remember, that bike cost you $20 a week, and you've had fun from it and learned from it.
Then spend the 8K on a bike, by now you will know exactly what you want and spend wisely, let's say 8 K and you get five years good use from it, after five years riding one bike, you will think, I've got my money's worth, you can write the bike off as money well spent.
8K over 5 years is $32 a week, lots more than what the "test bike" cost!
And you can call the $500 on the test bike a "donation to the sport", helping some school kid have a go if you like.
Win / win!
Oh, and buy from your local bike shop, Cost me $100 extra to buy from my LBS than buying over the interweb, has saved me MUCH more that that since, and next time I have an issue, LBS will give advice for free, something they cannot do if nobody buys there and they go out of business.
FD
mtb don't use tubulars? i do most of my road bike part shopping at fairwheel bikes...and they sell enve tubular mtb rims. is it just that tubular for mtb is stupid? i thought i also read somewhere that some mtb'ers opt for tubeless. would you recommend clinchers over both of them?
getting a cheapy and riding for six months...now that's a pretty good idea! i think i'll do that!!!!! i sorta just wanted a 'cool' bike right from the get go, but your idea is smarter. thanks!!!!!
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I think we have a communication error, between tubular and tubeless.
I have rode tubulars (ie glue on tires) I hate them, give me the weight anyday. MTB trend is clinchers without the inner-tube. Don't ask me how it works, but apparently it does.
Enjoy Mountain Biking, and especially enjoy the friendly folk that seem to go with the mountain biking.
FD
I have rode tubulars (ie glue on tires) I hate them, give me the weight anyday. MTB trend is clinchers without the inner-tube. Don't ask me how it works, but apparently it does.
Enjoy Mountain Biking, and especially enjoy the friendly folk that seem to go with the mountain biking.
FD
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Oh, and by the way, my Karakoram is my ride, Was all the war office was going to give funding approval for.
Hard tail was the only option at the 1K price point (in my view).
I'm loving getting out and riding.
Enjoy the trails!
Hard tail was the only option at the 1K price point (in my view).
I'm loving getting out and riding.
Enjoy the trails!
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For the price you are willing to pay, I suggest you find a shop that has demo bikes. Generally the bikes are rented out at about $50/day. The price can be used towards purchase.
I also suggest you do some research on bikes and materials. If weight is a real issue to you, consider a hardtail v. full suspension but I would also think about the trails you plan on riding and what function the bike will serve. Having not ridden in MI, I assume trails are very different than what you will encounter in the West, especially places like Leadville. East of the Mississippi trails tend to be flowy, rooty and wet. West it's all rocks, sand and steep descents.
Where I live the 29er is KING, even among shorter people. Not every 29er is built the same. I can't get on my buddies 29er hardtail (with a large frame) but having ridden Specialized and Santa Cruz 29ers the large frames fit me just fine. Just keep in mind if you want long travel, most likely a 26er is your best bet, if you are looking for cross-country, there probably is a 29er that fits you.
Carbon is a light weight material but it is prone to "injury" from crashes. There are other ways to lighten up a bike other than carbon fiber. For instance sticking with a hardtail, light wheels etc.
As to wheels and tires, different schools of thought... the direction is towards tubeless and using Stans but that has its own problems. I still like old school tires with tubes. Quick and easy to fix if you have a flat. Stans are great for goat head thorns but I suspect in MI that's not a problem. Stans will not help with a blown out sidewall...
Anyway look for a shop in your area that supports the MTB community and go pick their brains on bikes, sizes, material and tires/wheels. Don't be in a hurry to buy. Also, no offense, no matter how fit you are, it will be awhile before you are qualified to do Leadville. I would look for a more entry level bike, gain skills than move up...I see alot of newbies on bikes that are for better skilled riders... those newbies tend to get seriously injuried...
bikes to look at - 29ers that will fit shorter people:
Santa Cruz Tallboy, 501 or Bronson (29 and 650B) and the Superlight when it comes out.
Also Specialized Epic or Stumpy FSR, Trek Fuel etc
,
I also suggest you do some research on bikes and materials. If weight is a real issue to you, consider a hardtail v. full suspension but I would also think about the trails you plan on riding and what function the bike will serve. Having not ridden in MI, I assume trails are very different than what you will encounter in the West, especially places like Leadville. East of the Mississippi trails tend to be flowy, rooty and wet. West it's all rocks, sand and steep descents.
Where I live the 29er is KING, even among shorter people. Not every 29er is built the same. I can't get on my buddies 29er hardtail (with a large frame) but having ridden Specialized and Santa Cruz 29ers the large frames fit me just fine. Just keep in mind if you want long travel, most likely a 26er is your best bet, if you are looking for cross-country, there probably is a 29er that fits you.
Carbon is a light weight material but it is prone to "injury" from crashes. There are other ways to lighten up a bike other than carbon fiber. For instance sticking with a hardtail, light wheels etc.
As to wheels and tires, different schools of thought... the direction is towards tubeless and using Stans but that has its own problems. I still like old school tires with tubes. Quick and easy to fix if you have a flat. Stans are great for goat head thorns but I suspect in MI that's not a problem. Stans will not help with a blown out sidewall...
Anyway look for a shop in your area that supports the MTB community and go pick their brains on bikes, sizes, material and tires/wheels. Don't be in a hurry to buy. Also, no offense, no matter how fit you are, it will be awhile before you are qualified to do Leadville. I would look for a more entry level bike, gain skills than move up...I see alot of newbies on bikes that are for better skilled riders... those newbies tend to get seriously injuried...
bikes to look at - 29ers that will fit shorter people:
Santa Cruz Tallboy, 501 or Bronson (29 and 650B) and the Superlight when it comes out.
Also Specialized Epic or Stumpy FSR, Trek Fuel etc
,
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Last edited by Pamestique; 11-01-13 at 01:21 PM.
#10
Still kicking.
There are mtb tubulars out there. https://www.geax.com/en/products/?cat=2&prod=1
MTB's don't use tubulars, so your stuck with clinchers. Are you a troll or was that a troll filter?
Assuming your not a troll:
Three things you mention:
1, you are not new to cycling, and own a few bikes. You probably have access to at least a crap MTB.
2, you want bang for buck
3, your budget is 8K
So why don't you use any bike you can get your paws on and go have a look at the local trails, come home and spend 1K on whatever you think is the closest fit to you , your riding style and the trails. Quit the bike after six months and get $500 for it. (realistic). Think about the school kid that's going to buy the 1K bike for $500 and love it!
Remember, that bike cost you $20 a week, and you've had fun from it and learned from it.
Then spend the 8K on a bike, by now you will know exactly what you want and spend wisely, let's say 8 K and you get five years good use from it, after five years riding one bike, you will think, I've got my money's worth, you can write the bike off as money well spent.
8K over 5 years is $32 a week, lots more than what the "test bike" cost!
And you can call the $500 on the test bike a "donation to the sport", helping some school kid have a go if you like.
Win / win!
Oh, and buy from your local bike shop, Cost me $100 extra to buy from my LBS than buying over the interweb, has saved me MUCH more that that since, and next time I have an issue, LBS will give advice for free, something they cannot do if nobody buys there and they go out of business.
FD
Assuming your not a troll:
Three things you mention:
1, you are not new to cycling, and own a few bikes. You probably have access to at least a crap MTB.
2, you want bang for buck
3, your budget is 8K
So why don't you use any bike you can get your paws on and go have a look at the local trails, come home and spend 1K on whatever you think is the closest fit to you , your riding style and the trails. Quit the bike after six months and get $500 for it. (realistic). Think about the school kid that's going to buy the 1K bike for $500 and love it!
Remember, that bike cost you $20 a week, and you've had fun from it and learned from it.
Then spend the 8K on a bike, by now you will know exactly what you want and spend wisely, let's say 8 K and you get five years good use from it, after five years riding one bike, you will think, I've got my money's worth, you can write the bike off as money well spent.
8K over 5 years is $32 a week, lots more than what the "test bike" cost!
And you can call the $500 on the test bike a "donation to the sport", helping some school kid have a go if you like.
Win / win!
Oh, and buy from your local bike shop, Cost me $100 extra to buy from my LBS than buying over the interweb, has saved me MUCH more that that since, and next time I have an issue, LBS will give advice for free, something they cannot do if nobody buys there and they go out of business.
FD
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#11
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I did a few test rides of some Specialized at my LBS. They put me on a Small. An after riding a few others and doing some googling, I figured I'd need a 15"-17.5".
As for CF...are they durable? I got ride of my CF road bikes and cyclocross bike because I just got sick of worrying about them if I dropped them or crashed. I'm leaning towards aluminum or titanium for my first mountain bike. And I thought I read that Ritchey built up a very light steel mtb?
As for CF...are they durable? I got ride of my CF road bikes and cyclocross bike because I just got sick of worrying about them if I dropped them or crashed. I'm leaning towards aluminum or titanium for my first mountain bike. And I thought I read that Ritchey built up a very light steel mtb?
Also, Pamestique's recommendation to rent is right on point. I should have thought of that too. Granted, most of the shops around here only rent entry level stuff, still you can get a good idea what size wheel you want and get a feel for what type of trails/bikes you want.
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