Too small frame??
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Too small frame??
Hello all,
So I just got a bike. I will post the pic later on the day. I was wondering if it's a bit too small for me just based on data. When I stand over the top tube there is about 2.5 inches before I make contact with my private parts. I feel a little hunched over when I ride but I'm assuming I can fix that with a stem, handlebars, etc..And also I can get used to the ride. I just installed a MTb handlebar. The seat has to be raised somewhat a bit high in order to get some formal pedaling. I feel it ok but I'm sure I can adjust a few things to make it feel better. Should I keep it or get rid of it? I just want to bash with it. Just around town.
Excuse the mess... Haha
So I just got a bike. I will post the pic later on the day. I was wondering if it's a bit too small for me just based on data. When I stand over the top tube there is about 2.5 inches before I make contact with my private parts. I feel a little hunched over when I ride but I'm assuming I can fix that with a stem, handlebars, etc..And also I can get used to the ride. I just installed a MTb handlebar. The seat has to be raised somewhat a bit high in order to get some formal pedaling. I feel it ok but I'm sure I can adjust a few things to make it feel better. Should I keep it or get rid of it? I just want to bash with it. Just around town.
Excuse the mess... Haha
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If the bicycle feels too small... well... it likely is. I'd rather have a bike too small than too large. But a proper fitting bicycle is by far the best way to go. You might feel less "hunched over" if you raise the handle bars a little.
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How tall are you? and measure the bike, pull a tape from the center of the bottom barrel(pedal arm) to the top of the seat tube and post that. Looking at your photo I'd guess that to be about 16-18 inches.
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Yes it appears to be a bit too small... but for bashing around town, probably fine.
Pick up a new taller, extended, USED, handlebar set-up and switch it our yourself...
But if you plan on buying new parts and having your local shop do the the work... find another, Bigger bash around bike ready to go...
Keep in mind that oldie but goodie cromo hard rock is worth about $100 fully functional....I love these old Hard Rocks for bashing around ... take care of them and they last for decades...
Good Luck!
Pick up a new taller, extended, USED, handlebar set-up and switch it our yourself...
But if you plan on buying new parts and having your local shop do the the work... find another, Bigger bash around bike ready to go...
Keep in mind that oldie but goodie cromo hard rock is worth about $100 fully functional....I love these old Hard Rocks for bashing around ... take care of them and they last for decades...
Good Luck!
Last edited by bananafruitcake; 09-22-14 at 04:01 PM.
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You should be fine, I ride a 23" road bike and 19 1/2" mountain bike and I have a little over 3" clearance from my family jewels on the mountain bike.
A mountain bike too small is better than too big and easier to control and whip around on trails.
Perhaps a longer stem but you probably just need to get used to a mountain bike feel.
Those Specialized Hard Rocks are indeed awesome and will last for years.
Check out the thread here on vintage mountain bikes.
A mountain bike too small is better than too big and easier to control and whip around on trails.
Perhaps a longer stem but you probably just need to get used to a mountain bike feel.
Those Specialized Hard Rocks are indeed awesome and will last for years.
Check out the thread here on vintage mountain bikes.
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Hard telling with saddle height not set yet (make sure minimum insertion line isn't showing), but seems OK to me.
- small bike lover
- small bike lover
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Ok so the frame is about 14in. I didn't have a measuring tape but I will confirm today. I just can't get a proper fit. By shoulders/neck area bothers me. Maybe it's just my body :/
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The smallest size of the 1992 Hardrock Sport was 42cm (about 16.5").
MTBs were rarely measured C-C. Some companies didn't even do C-T (of the top tube), rather measuring to the top of the seat tube. And 14" measurement is admittedly sketchy.
Seat tube measurement is a pretty worthless guide to what fits, IME.
Just gotta get the reach right, then get the bars the height you like 'em. I bet this bike is a riser bar away from working out. Stem could possibly raised a tad, also. Just be sure the minimum insertion marks don't show.
MTBs were rarely measured C-C. Some companies didn't even do C-T (of the top tube), rather measuring to the top of the seat tube. And 14" measurement is admittedly sketchy.
Seat tube measurement is a pretty worthless guide to what fits, IME.
Just gotta get the reach right, then get the bars the height you like 'em. I bet this bike is a riser bar away from working out. Stem could possibly raised a tad, also. Just be sure the minimum insertion marks don't show.
Last edited by LesterOfPuppets; 09-25-14 at 08:25 PM. Reason: to/do typo fixed
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I have a Rockhopper from the same time period that looks exactly like your bike (except for the color). It's on my to-do list for a strip and re-build. I'm planning on taking that sweet rigid and do some All-Mountain riding with it.
Everyone has their preferences, but I feel like I have better control over a smaller bike than a bigger bike. Besides, being hunched over the bars is how I like to take the steeps going up (prevents my front wheel from going up when I pedal).
I'd put some SPD's on it, refresh with new tires / brake pads and take on a fire road with an occasional drop (exactly what I'll be doing with mine).
Everyone has their preferences, but I feel like I have better control over a smaller bike than a bigger bike. Besides, being hunched over the bars is how I like to take the steeps going up (prevents my front wheel from going up when I pedal).
I'd put some SPD's on it, refresh with new tires / brake pads and take on a fire road with an occasional drop (exactly what I'll be doing with mine).
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OP, I'm about a 1/2 inch taller than you. On vintage MTBs, like yours, I ride 18" frames measured from C to T (top of seat tube). I tried a 16" frame and it was too small. I find that ironic because for my late model hard tail MTB, I ride a 15.5" frame cause I found the 17" frame too clumsy for me. Go figure! I'm guessing the geometry of the newer bikes contributes to this.
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I'm 5' 11" ,,
I ride a 19.5"/large,
the family jewels get about 2 inches of breathing room.
I don't feel cramped at all.
I ride a 19.5"/large,
the family jewels get about 2 inches of breathing room.
I don't feel cramped at all.
Last edited by osco53; 11-29-16 at 06:31 AM.
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Don't do it.
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Single track handling basic set up
Assuming you know how to set your seat height, plus forward/aft seat position properly and you understand your body weight should be comfortably
centered when your in ride position, for instance your weight should be centered on your cranks when you climb or descend.
Modern mountain bike geo keeps us from needing to 'hang' way way back off the seat or go chest over the bars for climbs.
Now we drop down low with the seat just infront of the 'boyz' or put our head down low just over the front of the bars.
Any way,,stem length base line for technical rides is critical,,too long and descents get scetchy, too short and climbs become impossible. Also
too long means sluggish steering and sloppy slow speed control, Too short means twitchy...
The Base line:
If your In RIDE position and you look down and see your front axle BEHIND your handlebars your stem is too long.
If your In RIDE position and you look down and see your front axle INFRONT of your handlebars your stem is too short.
Ummm Ride position is not tooling along grinning like a school boy at the girls ya know... We also call it the Attack Position, It should be a relaxed
aggressive stance. like your ready for a 90 foot drop down a cliff even tho It's just a few roots then a switchback and a five foot drop...
None of this can be achieved on a too small frame..
FYI I am 6 ft tall and can fit on 19 inch to 21.5 inch frames (The Seat Tube Top to crank center) but the 19.5 is exactly right for me. Rake, Trail and head tube angles plus top tube length variables can move my sweet only a little, a very little.
Here Endeth The Lesson
centered when your in ride position, for instance your weight should be centered on your cranks when you climb or descend.
Modern mountain bike geo keeps us from needing to 'hang' way way back off the seat or go chest over the bars for climbs.
Now we drop down low with the seat just infront of the 'boyz' or put our head down low just over the front of the bars.
Any way,,stem length base line for technical rides is critical,,too long and descents get scetchy, too short and climbs become impossible. Also
too long means sluggish steering and sloppy slow speed control, Too short means twitchy...
The Base line:
If your In RIDE position and you look down and see your front axle BEHIND your handlebars your stem is too long.
If your In RIDE position and you look down and see your front axle INFRONT of your handlebars your stem is too short.
Ummm Ride position is not tooling along grinning like a school boy at the girls ya know... We also call it the Attack Position, It should be a relaxed
aggressive stance. like your ready for a 90 foot drop down a cliff even tho It's just a few roots then a switchback and a five foot drop...
None of this can be achieved on a too small frame..
FYI I am 6 ft tall and can fit on 19 inch to 21.5 inch frames (The Seat Tube Top to crank center) but the 19.5 is exactly right for me. Rake, Trail and head tube angles plus top tube length variables can move my sweet only a little, a very little.
Here Endeth The Lesson
Last edited by osco53; 09-30-14 at 05:31 PM.
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^^^osco53 is 100% correct.
I am also 6' and ride a 19 1/2" frame, looks small but it is perfect for me.
Check out this book, a great resource..
https://www.amazon.com/Mastering-Moun.../dp/B004D2BD1Q
I am also 6' and ride a 19 1/2" frame, looks small but it is perfect for me.
Check out this book, a great resource..
https://www.amazon.com/Mastering-Moun.../dp/B004D2BD1Q
#19
Casually Deliberate
Hello all,
So I just got a bike. I will post the pic later on the day. I was wondering if it's a bit too small for me just based on data. When I stand over the top tube there is about 2.5 inches before I make contact with my private parts. I feel a little hunched over when I ride but I'm assuming I can fix that with a stem, handlebars, etc..And also I can get used to the ride. I just installed a MTb handlebar. The seat has to be raised somewhat a bit high in order to get some formal pedaling. I feel it ok but I'm sure I can adjust a few things to make it feel better. Should I keep it or get rid of it? I just want to bash with it. Just around town.
Excuse the mess... Haha
So I just got a bike. I will post the pic later on the day. I was wondering if it's a bit too small for me just based on data. When I stand over the top tube there is about 2.5 inches before I make contact with my private parts. I feel a little hunched over when I ride but I'm assuming I can fix that with a stem, handlebars, etc..And also I can get used to the ride. I just installed a MTb handlebar. The seat has to be raised somewhat a bit high in order to get some formal pedaling. I feel it ok but I'm sure I can adjust a few things to make it feel better. Should I keep it or get rid of it? I just want to bash with it. Just around town.
Excuse the mess... Haha
#20
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^^^osco53 is 100% correct.
I am also 6' and ride a 19 1/2" frame, looks small but it is perfect for me.
Check out this book, a great resource..
Amazon.com: Mastering Mountain Bike Skills - 2nd Edition eBook: Brian Lopes, Lee McCormack: Kindle Store
I am also 6' and ride a 19 1/2" frame, looks small but it is perfect for me.
Check out this book, a great resource..
Amazon.com: Mastering Mountain Bike Skills - 2nd Edition eBook: Brian Lopes, Lee McCormack: Kindle Store
#21
Senior Member
I am 6' 1" and have a 34" inseam and my old diamondback had about 1" clearance to the jewells. I am not sure if it was a 20 or 22" frame probably the latter. The salesman that sold it to me years ago said it fit perfect but I think he was sizing a trail bike to me like you would size a road bike. For riding around town it was fine but when I decided I wanted to start mountain bike riding/trail ect I wanted more clearance. So I went shopping for a smaller frame model last spring. I went to my LBS to shop and picked out a Jamis 650b with a 19" frame. The LBS thought I should maybe fit into the next larger size but the 19" gave me 4 fingers clearance to the jewells which is what I wanted. Honestly this bike feels better to me than my old large frame diamondback by a long shot even for just riding around town. When I occasionally hop on the old D for a jaunt to the store it feels totally awkward. It doesn't even seem to ride nice compared to my new bike. I don't know if this Jamis is too small for my frame but heck I think it rides sweet. Maybe it's more in the geometry than the actual frame height? I also think personal preference comes into play more so than what "should be the right size according to the book".
I have since purchasing upgraded from the stock 110 mm XC stem and 620 mm bars to a 90 mm stem and 690 mm bars. That made the bike even more comfy and controllable to me.
I have since purchasing upgraded from the stock 110 mm XC stem and 620 mm bars to a 90 mm stem and 690 mm bars. That made the bike even more comfy and controllable to me.
Last edited by trail_monkey; 10-03-14 at 05:10 AM.
#22
Senior Member
I have one bike with a frame two sizes too small and it looks similar to LesterofPuppets bike. I like it a lot. I also have a bike one size too large and I like that too. All of my bikes are set up to the same dimensions regardless of the frame size. Now that you can find just about any part you need online it's easy to get a good fit within a range of frame sizes.
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