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  1. #1
    TrekDualSuspension Freak!
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    What will it take to go from 7speed to 9 in rear?

    I own a 2005 Trek Y26. I want to go 9 speed in the rear. What will i have to buy? How much money am i gonna have to spend? Will rims have to go into this? I just want to have an idea of what i have to do. I had a very good time this weekend riding, I finally got the wheel bob down, i had to basically adjust the rear shock to its limit, but it worked. Never had so much fun going downhill! I think im really missing some gears while i go up steep hills though. Let me know. Also where should i start on getting the weight on this bike down? Im beginning to really like this whole parts catalog thing hahaha!

  2. #2
    :\ ping of death troie's Avatar
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    New shifters, cassette and chain.

    Shifters: SRAM x.7 triggers + x.7 rear der = $80
    Cassette: SRAM PG-970 = $30
    Chain: SRAM PG-970 = $25

    Pricepoint.com deals = priceless

    For everything else, theres mastercard.

    Most of the weight of a bike will be in the suspension and wheelset. What do you have on there now?

  3. #3
    Senior Member
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    why go 9 speed anyway? Unless you having trouble finding parts to replace your 7 speed equipment, I would just stay at 7. The range in gearing probably isn't even that different and the 7 speed stuff is probably more durable (beefier chain, wider sprokets,etc.)

  4. #4
    NCAA - DUAL CHAMPIONS! a2psyklnut's Avatar
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    I agree with ajs26. With what it would cost to upgrade, you're better off buying a new bike. New shifters, new derailleurs, new chain, new cassette, new chainrings! That's a lot of cha-ching to spend on a new bike.

    Stick with the 7-speed. Plus, you're not gaining more range most likely. Your lowest gear and your highest are the same, you just have two more in the middle!!

    This may or may not be true. Do me a favor, count the number of teeth on your smallest cog on you cassette. COG = individual gear CASSETTE=the 7 speed cluster.
    And count the biggest. It should be something like an 11 or 12 for the smallest and 32 or 34 for the biggest.

    All you may need is a different 7 speed cassette to increase your range.
    "Life is not a journey to the grave with the intention of arriving safely in a pretty and well preserved body, but rather to skid in broadside, thoroughly used up, totally worn out, and loudly proclaiming, "WOW, What a Ride!" - unknown
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  5. #5
    TrekDualSuspension Freak!
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    I did not know that the 9 speed was just more gears in the middle, thanks for that info, 12-32 7 speed, thats what i have, i believe its a sram 730,If there is a way to change the range on the 7 speed i would do that instead. What would i have to look for? I would also like to change the front and rear derailler for sure. cant put stress on them while changing. thats pretty much my only beef with the bike. The rest is me getting in better shape so i can tackle uphill. I was really flying downhill with no problem at all really beating the bike up! the bike took it like a champ. How about weight? where should i start? Tires?

  6. #6
    NCAA - DUAL CHAMPIONS! a2psyklnut's Avatar
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    You can probably get an 11-34 cassette (don't know if that range is readily available without checking). That'll give you more top end speed when hammering on the road, and will give you a lower gear while climbing. Figure $25 to $40 for the new cassette. Installation would probably only be like $10 to $15.

    Call the shop where you bought the bike and ask them to investigate.

    All the other stuff, I would replace it once it wears out or breaks. As a newbie, your skills are still pretty poor, so you'll fall a lot. That'll give you plenty of opportunities to upgrade broken parts.
    "Life is not a journey to the grave with the intention of arriving safely in a pretty and well preserved body, but rather to skid in broadside, thoroughly used up, totally worn out, and loudly proclaiming, "WOW, What a Ride!" - unknown
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  7. #7
    TrekDualSuspension Freak!
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    Quote Originally Posted by a2psyklnut
    You can probably get an 11-34 cassette (don't know if that range is readily available without checking). That'll give you more top end speed when hammering on the road, and will give you a lower gear while climbing. Figure $25 to $40 for the new cassette. Installation would probably only be like $10 to $15.

    Call the shop where you bought the bike and ask them to investigate.

    All the other stuff, I would replace it once it wears out or breaks. As a newbie, your skills are still pretty poor, so you'll fall a lot. That'll give you plenty of opportunities to upgrade broken parts.
    My skills are poor thats for sure! But i have not fallen yet(knock on wood) and i have been riding every saturday since feb 12 on some pretty treacherous trails here in Puerto Rico near the beaches and some tough mountain trails. #1 prob was bob, got that out the way, #2 gear, and #3 grip, maybe tire aint right, connection trail. What u guys recommend. Im about 5'10" 225lbs. Im really not gonna get another bike,it might sound crazy but, im happy with the y26. Im sure i can make this bike pretty nice, slowly.

  8. #8
    NCAA - DUAL CHAMPIONS! a2psyklnut's Avatar
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    At 225 lbs, I would concentrate on buying more durable components versus wasting your money on lightweight gear that won't hold up to your weight.

    I'd recommend some bigger tires. That'll help with your #3 problem. Be careful though, don't go too wide or they won't fit in your frame. Check with your bike shop and see if they have anything in the 2.25" to 2.4" width tire that you could test mount onto your frame. You may be stuck doing what I do which is I mounted a 2.4" tire on the front, since I have plenty of clearance with the fork, but can only fit a 2.25 on the rear.
    "Life is not a journey to the grave with the intention of arriving safely in a pretty and well preserved body, but rather to skid in broadside, thoroughly used up, totally worn out, and loudly proclaiming, "WOW, What a Ride!" - unknown
    "Your Bike Sucks" - Sky Yaeger

  9. #9
    TrekDualSuspension Freak!
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    Durable like what? Being a newbie i really dont know what durable components are? What 2.25 tires do you have? If i may ask?

  10. #10
    NCAA - DUAL CHAMPIONS! a2psyklnut's Avatar
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    Durable as in, not spending top dollar for let's say an XTR derailleur when an XT costs half as much and only weighs a couple grams more.

    Instead of buying ultra-lightweight tire with thin sidewall rubber, I sacrifice a weight penalty and get some beefier treads.

    In lieu of an expensive saddle with Titanium or Scandium seat rails, I stick with a cheaper one with chromoly rails.

    Instead of a set of Mavic Crossmax SL wheels, I use some Sun Rhyno Lites with XT hubs.

    etc., etc., etc.

    Ask yourself this, "What do I NOT like about my bike?"

    Then ask, "What will it cost to replace it?"

    Then figure if it's worth it.

    When I first started, and I don't really know why. I had a hang-up with cranks. I eventually bought a set of Race Face Turbine LP's in Powder Coat Red w/Black anodized rings.

    Did they improve my riding? Not really enough to where I really noticed, but they made me LOVE my bike. The cost was worth every penny.

    Then, I moved to stems. Instead of the stock generic one that came on my bike, I got a KORE. Again, it didn't REALLY change the way the bike felt, maybe made the steering a "little" stiffer, but not significantly. BUT, I thought my bike was the COOLEST! Again, worth every penny.

    I refused to buy an expensive seatpost for years. Never could imagine spending nearly $100 for a seatpost. Well, after going through 3 or 4 $25 to $40 ones, and having some extra money, I broke down and bought a THOMSON Elite seatpost. Now, I can't imagine NOT owning one. They last forever!

    If you've got the cash, then upgrade at will. However, if money is tight, then just replace stuff as it breaks.
    "Life is not a journey to the grave with the intention of arriving safely in a pretty and well preserved body, but rather to skid in broadside, thoroughly used up, totally worn out, and loudly proclaiming, "WOW, What a Ride!" - unknown
    "Your Bike Sucks" - Sky Yaeger

  11. #11
    TrekDualSuspension Freak!
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    Quote Originally Posted by a2psyklnut
    Durable as in, not spending top dollar for let's say an XTR derailleur when an XT costs half as much and only weighs a couple grams more.

    Instead of buying ultra-lightweight tire with thin sidewall rubber, I sacrifice a weight penalty and get some beefier treads.

    In lieu of an expensive saddle with Titanium or Scandium seat rails, I stick with a cheaper one with chromoly rails.

    Instead of a set of Mavic Crossmax SL wheels, I use some Sun Rhyno Lites with XT hubs.

    etc., etc., etc.

    Ask yourself this, "What do I NOT like about my bike?"

    Then ask, "What will it cost to replace it?"

    Then figure if it's worth it.

    When I first started, and I don't really know why. I had a hang-up with cranks. I eventually bought a set of Race Face Turbine LP's in Powder Coat Red w/Black anodized rings.

    Did they improve my riding? Not really enough to where I really noticed, but they made me LOVE my bike. The cost was worth every penny.

    Then, I moved to stems. Instead of the stock generic one that came on my bike, I got a KORE. Again, it didn't REALLY change the way the bike felt, maybe made the steering a "little" stiffer, but not significantly. BUT, I thought my bike was the COOLEST! Again, worth every penny.

    I refused to buy an expensive seatpost for years. Never could imagine spending nearly $100 for a seatpost. Well, after going through 3 or 4 $25 to $40 ones, and having some extra money, I broke down and bought a THOMSON Elite seatpost. Now, I can't imagine NOT owning one. They last forever!

    If you've got the cash, then upgrade at will. However, if money is tight, then just replace stuff as it breaks.
    Very well said and i will take all that advice. Thats really what it comes down to. the love of the bike. I mean i ran with all the people at the trail and some had really expensive bikes and others had walmart bikes. they all made it up and down the hill. I am just the kind of person that likes changing things. My prob is just finding the right parts that will fit my bike. I dont want to buy anything that will not fit. It would also be embarrassing to go somewhere and they ask 170mm or 195mm or 1 and 1/8, and i dont know what the hell to say. That why i come here, but sometimes thats no help at all because people usually say" GET another bike, that bike you own sucks!" But hey its my bike and ill do what i want, thats my point.
    I understand that some bikes might be better in some ways but i feel like i can make my bike better. I almost went to the shop and bought another bike, the guy at the shop convinced me otherwise and said to be patient and i can get my bike running the way some expensive bikes do. He said its all conditioning and practice and i think its true. what do you think? I feel i have gotten 20 times better than when i started in february.

    I just saw a rock shox rear shock with lockout and adjustability, that would be nice but will it fit? Thats my main prob. My bike didnt come with the measurements and stuff to replace stuff. What to do? I know i have much to learn.

  12. #12
    NCAA - DUAL CHAMPIONS! a2psyklnut's Avatar
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    You do have a lot to learn. That's part of the fun!

    Here is my recommendation to you and everyone else.

    When you buy an upgrade part, buy the tools necessary to do the work yourself. You'll learn how to repair the bike yourself, and you'll invest in bike tools that you'll use over and over again.

    For example. Let's assume you need to replace or upgrade your bottom bracket. To do the work, you need a crank puller and a splined bottom bracket tool. Each costs about $15, then the bottom bracket costs about $25 to $45 depending on what model you buy. Let's assume the $25 one. BB ($25) + Crank Puller ($15) + BB Tool ($15) = Everything you need for $55.00. If you take it to the shop, they're going to charge you $25 for the part and $25 to install it. (Fair price for Labor). So, by buying the part and tools, you spend an extra $5.00.

    Let's assume you ride a lot this year and in 6 months you need another one. This time it costs you $25 for the parts. If you take it to the shop they still charge you $50.00.

    As far as knowing what to buy and what will fit. That's what these forums are for. Ask here and you'll get the info you need.
    "Life is not a journey to the grave with the intention of arriving safely in a pretty and well preserved body, but rather to skid in broadside, thoroughly used up, totally worn out, and loudly proclaiming, "WOW, What a Ride!" - unknown
    "Your Bike Sucks" - Sky Yaeger

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