New project
#26
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Also lugged frames are easier for beginners because there are two pieces of metal heated up and then a hot liquid metal between them as a binding agent. It requires less precision of heat than a tig weld, not to mention that the lugs hold the tubes at the right angle as mentioned above.
#33
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Some of them are 20D some of them are 5D. Lenses are either a 100mm 2.8 macro or 50mm 1.8. The ones from last night are 5D and 100 mm macro.
#34
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That's true. I guess if one started off with welding, they'd need some kind of full jig first.
#35
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But anyway, this is AMAZING work. Keep those pics coming! Do you have an estimate, as far as parts go, for how much it would cost to build one of these frames?
#36
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My frame specifically cost about $350 when you add in the parts, shipping, silver, and fork. Without the fork, it would have been about $280.
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Not to say lugs are a no brainer, but they are easier to do than TIG welding. The end result of a TIGed joint is a good joint, but it is loaded over a smaller area so the stakes are particularly high. TIG also uses more heat over a small area, and this can pull joints radically out of alignment if not done properly. Also the best tigged bikes are welded in a fixture and not cold set afterwards, so that raises the bar even further.
The normal perception among cyclists is that a monkey could do TIG, while it has a long list of disadvantages as a tubing joinery method. The truth is pretty much the opposite, it takes the most skill and gives the most advanced results. For instance the high heat is less likely to harm steel because it is concentrated in a very small area, over a very short period of time, but that is a recipe for disaster without a lot of skill.
The normal perception among cyclists is that a monkey could do TIG, while it has a long list of disadvantages as a tubing joinery method. The truth is pretty much the opposite, it takes the most skill and gives the most advanced results. For instance the high heat is less likely to harm steel because it is concentrated in a very small area, over a very short period of time, but that is a recipe for disaster without a lot of skill.
#38
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Check out Caletti Cycles' website for a very detailed description of the TIG fabrication process.
https://www.caletticycles.com/process.htm
https://www.caletticycles.com/process.htm
#39
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Hey folks - Just dropped my bike off at the Bike Nook to have the headset installed and the seat post reamed. They weighed it at 4.76 lbs. I'll have them re-weigh it after I get everything put together.
#41
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Yes, the frame only. Although I guess I should have them weigh it after reaming and before installing the headset to shave off a few fractions of a gram.
#43
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Me wants one of your frames!
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You see, their morals, their code...it's a bad joke, dropped at the first sign of trouble. They're only as good as the world allows them to be. I'll show you. When the chips are down, these...These "civilized" people...they'll eat each other. See, I'm not a monster. I'm just ahead of the curve
You see, their morals, their code...it's a bad joke, dropped at the first sign of trouble. They're only as good as the world allows them to be. I'll show you. When the chips are down, these...These "civilized" people...they'll eat each other. See, I'm not a monster. I'm just ahead of the curve
#44
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Wow! Very nice!
You might take a look at Dupli-color products--they make a clear primer and auto clear coat spray. And if you really want to get fancy and cheap, they have "anodized" colors. From my bookmarks for a future project:
Adhesion Promoter Clear Primer
Auto Spray Clear Top Coat
Metalcast Anodized Color Paint
(the best price I found for these was at www.autobarn.net)
stan
As for paint, I'm thinking about going cheap and just clearcoating. Can you just clearcoat on bare metal? It won't be pretty, but I kinda like the brushed steel look and this way, I can remember all the mistakes I made. =)
Adhesion Promoter Clear Primer
Auto Spray Clear Top Coat
Metalcast Anodized Color Paint
(the best price I found for these was at www.autobarn.net)
stan
#45
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I was actually thinking about the duplicolor "nite lite" product in clear. That way I can keep a reminder of my work (good parts and bad) and get a little safety without pasting reflectors or reflective tape all over it.
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I'm a super noob when it comes to appreciating frames, and so please forgive me for this question: how do you ensure frame integrity/strength? I vaguely recall ads that Cervelo ran during the last TdF showing some machines punching and tugging at Cervelo frames to demonstrate this point. Or am I a witless victim of mass hype? Thanks!
#48
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I'm a super noob when it comes to appreciating frames, and so please forgive me for this question: how do you ensure frame integrity/strength? I vaguely recall ads that Cervelo ran during the last TdF showing some machines punching and tugging at Cervelo frames to demonstrate this point. Or am I a witless victim of mass hype? Thanks!
Since he did them himself, he would know.
A big bike company has to do QC because they make so many bikes, with several employees working on them.
#49
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#50
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I rode the bike to BART and back today for a total of 7 miles. So far so good. It feels good, much lighter than my old Panasonic. The fit is perfect for me except I think I'm going to get some different handlebars. The reach to the bullhorns is just too long for me. I think these bars were more for TT type riding. Plus, my Panasonic has bullhorns so for variety, I might try a short set of risers. Make the look even more simple.
I'll probably ride it for a week or two like it is to get some more confidence the joints will hold and then take the parts off for a final sanding and then clear coat.
I'll probably ride it for a week or two like it is to get some more confidence the joints will hold and then take the parts off for a final sanding and then clear coat.