That__guy

Just looking for some info on helping me build a single speed wheel. I'll be riding a '15 nature boy (no disc) and I'm looking to invest in some solid wheels that'll last thru training and racing, along with maybe a little bit of commuting. I'm more confused on how many spokes I should have in the from compared to the back, idk should I do a 24 front and 28 rear? Will that be doable with the components I'm interested in? Anyway here's what I'm looking at...

Rims- h plus sons archetype
Hubs- white industries eno
Spoke nipples- dt Swiss aluminums
Spokes- sapim cx Ray bladed spokes

I haven't researched rubber yet, if you guys wanna throw some opinions in that's cool, I'll mainly be doing north east ccx, if that's of any info to you guys.

And I also have a question pertaining riding fixed, is there a quality hub anyone would suggest for riding fixed? I'd like to train-commute on fixed while racing SS. Or is my best bet just grab an extra wheel just for fixed? (I'm not made of money and would rather not take that route)

I was also looking at white industries crank set and ring, I see great reviews on it. Maybe someone could also suggest a bottom bracket that would work well with it.

Purple isn't my fave color....but dark purp and black? I think it'll look mean

Kopsis

Keep it simple: 32h front, 32h rear. It's CX ... the weight savings from 12 spokes and nipples won't make any difference (especially on a Nature Boy) so you might as well build 'em with some margin.

Mr IGH

For rims, I'd go with Stans Iron Cross or Alpha 400, they're tubeless ready and very stiff/strong. Don't waste time/money on rims that aren't tubeless ready, TR works fine with tubes and as more TR tyres come to market you'll be all set.

justin1138

Those hubs and rims are a solid choice. I've used both at different times (not together though).

Andy_K 

I agree about the spoke count. You can get probably away with 24 spokes, but 32 will make the wheel stronger. For similar reasons I'd suggest brass nipples instead of alloy. Alloy nipples round off easier and they corrode if they see a lot of moisture (which it sounds like these will).

The White ENO hub is available in a flip-flop variety that will let you switch between fixed and free just by flipping the wheel.

If you're getting a White Industries crankset, you may as well get their bottom bracket too.

That__guy

So there is an ENO flip flop? That's great, I'll have to use my google machine in a better fashion to find it.

great tips guys. I'll skip on the alloy nipples. However I've never had tubeless tires, I'll have to look at pros and cons. I thought the archetypes were tubeless ready? However I'm probably wrong, I think I thought clincher means tubeless. Two different words duh

I've heard somewhere that saving 1 gram of weight on your tires is like saving 2 grams on your frame. I'm a pretty solid rider, but I've never had a pair of premo tires, and I really wanna get as much of an edge as I can for my first race (I've "sampled" a ccx course last year with my purefix SS and my headset broke....but that's a funny story for a different thread I suppose.)

my LBS doesnt have a nature boy to test drive, but they had a macho man (same geometry) and the bike overall seemed really "tingy." A lot of clicks and noises, it was the $1200 model. But I'm thinking, or hoping it was from poor assembly. I've heard great things about AC, and I hope I'm making the right choice.

i looked at the Surly Steamroller but the clearance for mud isnt as good as the nature boy, nor does the Surly have cantilevers

Andy_K 

According to the WI website "Standard ENO stock as freewheel only shell - flip/flop shell upon request." It might be hard to find in stock anywhere, but your LBS can probably order it for you. Oddly, flip flip seems to be the default on the eccentric ENO.

chriskmurray

Yup, those hubs are very easy to order from WI if you are set up as a dealer or to have your local bike shop do it.

The build you suggest should be solid and I would also suggest 32h just because these wheels will be doing a lot more than just racing so the extra durability will be nice. With bladed spokes you can buy a tool to help prevent wind up or simply make one. It is basically a piece of plastic with a slot that the spoke fits into. Wind up is always something to pay attention to but it is much more obvious with bladed spokes. A good lube on the spoke threads helps as well. I personally use Wheelsmith Spoke Prep with Anti Seize over the top of that but any good thick grease or oil will do.

I actually had a set of the hubs you are looking for and can not say enough good about them! The WI fixed cogs are a thing of beauty as well! I also had their cranks so my build was similar to what you are looking at although I was too cheap to spring for their BB. That is tough to justify when an $8 Shimano will last for 10k miles...

That__guy

Great to hear a solid review from someone who owns one. Great frame color too, first thing I'm doing is passing my frame to my buddy that's an industrial painter, I love the tennis ball green color. Think I'm getting the black hubs tho, along with the black rims

i also decided on skipping the WI BB....$200+$200+$200....+ another $200 adds up quickly. Ill have have some nice wheels so I'll skimp out on the drivetrain for now. I could always change parts out next year should I feel I need too. I might also pass on the WI cranks, again, maybe next year. No matter what this bike will be much lighter than my 32 pound commuter....prob 10 pounds lighter. I'll just get a nice chain. Lol

Good thing I posted here. I thought 24/28 was the best idea ever. I've been convinced otherwise. I also don't think I'll be lacing my wheels, I'm going to do everything besides that. Sometimes I lack patience

chriskmurray

The cranks were sweet but I totally get the not fitting the budget thing. The BB is silly unless you simply want lighter weight, the basic UN54 BB from Shimano really will last for tens of thousands of miles so durability is no problem even with how cheap it is.

I would say going with a WI freewheel is worth it though if you already know what gear ratio you like.

24/28 hole wheels are great for lighter riders who plan on racing a lot. If racing is only a small part of what you plan to do you will greatly appreciate having more durable wheels and if you are a pretty powerful rider, having more spokes makes for a stiffer wheel to so especially on a SS that is a big perk in itself as you spend a lot of time out of the saddle pushing hard.

That__guy

Yeah I have read the true roundness of a crank wheel does make a difference, on the ease of pedaling itself. And I recall the WI crank ring and free wheel wasn't that much, I think I may recall $40-55, each.. My road fixie was a standard 44-16, but with all the out-of-the-corner burst speeds I'm thinking I may pedal with a 40-16, or 38-16. I'd really like to focus on staying in the saddle on these turns as a beginner, save the stand up mashing for when I'm out of the corner.

im 5-10 170 so I'm far from lightweight, and I also don't want to be scared of flattening a rim with the occasional curb pop-off. Didn't know a stiff wheel helped with fixed riding either, I have something new to punch into my google machine now.

i gotta stick to a solid training schedule for two months. If I can stay motivated (I'm sure I can, so pumped) I'll start building my bike. At which point maybe I'll post a pic

That__guy

I tried messaging you Chris but I need 50 posts. I'm shooting you an email regarding your signature link.

chriskmurray

Thanks, just about to check my email!

The WI freewheel retails for around $100 and the fixed cogs which are specific to WI are around $45 each.