Soody

I really like American builders so i bought this. It's a 60cm 2002 Gunnar Crosshairs with 853/ Ox platinum.

The mech at the LBS gave it a once over and a nod of approval and the guys at the model shop pointed out that it's Subaru STI blue & sold me some touchup paint.

The ad -

"Only selling as I have now bought a bigger Gunnar frame which fits me better. When I bought the 60 cm frame, it was the biggest size made by Gunnar. They are now making bigger frames, which I have bought. Fork crown was slightly damaged by a loose ballbearing in 2002. The headset was replaced immediately and this damage has not got any worse."

I've never even adjusted a threadless setup before. I have no idea here. I want to spec this bike for a year of bikepacking in Japan, so i need the steering to be tough. It's 1" threadless & i want as few black parts/ as many silver parts as i can afford. Chris King? Damn they're expensive, but maybe it's worth it?

I have 44cm Nitto Noodles, 600 tricolor brake levers, campy triple crank

I'll get DA 9 speed downtubes, 9 speed long cage rd, wide range shimano 9 cassette & TA chainrings.

Is there any other narrow silver canti than Paul Touring? Will probably use with Mavic A719 rims & 6400 levers. The brakes have always been the weak point on my bikes & i want to change this bad habit before going to another countries mountain ranges.

Thanks

fietsbob

Because CK headsets are actually made in the USA, they cost more to manufacture,
and you probably have VAT & import duty into NZ. Yea they are a bit of coin.

Not sure what the gouge in the fork steerer at the bottom was from. (statement in OP read)

because the threadless steerers tend to be not butted [Made thicker wall inside]

that would be something to have a Professional bike shop inspect.


threadless headset adjustment is done by compression , a bolt at the very top pushes down on a loosened stem.
once properly done, the tightening the bolts on the stem holds the adjustment

So stem top edge has to be taller than the length of the steerer tube length, But.. a spacer above the stem also works just fine.

Soody

Thanks dude. Actually we escape any extra duties on items under $380 (killing local retail, and law change is in play). A CK would cost about $200. Other options i can find in 1" are Cane Creek & FSA orbit.

The bike shop up the road thought the fork was OK.

Soody

Soma Double Row Bearing Threadless Headset 1"


What about this?

Soody

More 1" threadless

https://www.universalcycles.com/shop...p?category=104

https://www.amazon.com/Cane-Creek-110...0S2Z8E0NKC9Q5S

silver options! I thought cane creeks were all black, but no : )

Cane creek 110 ? It looks good.

tarwheel 

I highly recommend Shimano CX50 and CX70 canti brakes, if you are looking for other narrow options. Brake pads make a huge difference in stopping power, and KoolStop salmons are excellent in that regard.

If you are considering other rim options, Velocity Dyads are arguably as strong as Mavic A719s but lighter weight and less expensive.

Soody

Looks good, chur. Into the cart they go.

Soody

Ok i'm unsure now, i think the pull has changed for STI braking. The CX70s say they are Designed for use with New Super SLR brake levers

Will they still work well with these older levers...? Me and these levers get along too well to use anything else.

Soody

NZD to USD boy have i got my timing wrong for this.

cale

I'd replace the fork with a carbon CX model (see Nashbar) and disc brake fittings. That way you could continue to run cantis in the back where brake duty is far less and something like the TRP Hy/Rd cable-actuated hydraulic disc in the front. It might not appeal to someone wanting to avoid black, since almost all carbon forks start out (and remain!) black.

You mention braking as a concern, this is the only reason I suggest the fork replacement. Otherwise, you can go with any number of silver canti setups. The Velo Orange Grand Cru cantis look nice.

Soody

You're probably right, but i want to keep it looking as oldschool as possible.

No regrets!

cale

Yeah, but a Gunner isn't exactly "old school". More like, Am-Fab.

tarwheel 

I would have a bike shop inspect the fork, but would keep it if they determine it is OK. The weight savings from a carbon fork are minimal, and a quality steel fork (such as Gunnar) will provide a great ride. You'll love the Crosshairs if it fits you right. I bought a used one and rode it for about a year, mainly commuting, but eventually sold it because the fit wasn't right for me. However, it rode and handled very nicely. I would still own it if the fit was better.