Finally finished my build. 2015 Pinarello FCX
02-28-16, 12:49 AM
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Finally finished my build. 2015 Pinarello FCX
First of all, I would like to thank those in this sub-forum who gave me good advice and answered my questions about gravel bikes.
Thank you.
Just this morning, I finished wrapping the bars and a last minute adjustment on the front brakes before taking it out for its first real ride. I was able to snag the last available 2015 FCX frame in my size and this color scheme in the country. Had a shop in Oregon order it for me from Gita, (Pinarello's U.S. importer and distributor). All the remaining 2015 FCX frames are black, as are the 2016s. All-black, (other than New Zealand's rugby team), just doesn't do it for me. I'll be glad when the industry trend moves on, and back to 'colorful' bikes.
I have two wheelsets for this frame. The bike is shown here with the road wheels, Shimano RX-31. No complaints. A bit heavy, but very well made. These wheels have Bontrager AW-1 Hard Case 28mm tires. They will work well enough with rough pavement. The other wheelset for gravel use was built for me by wheelbuilders.com. They have DT Swiss 350 pull-through hubs, DT Swiss flat spokes, Velocity Aileron rims, and Kenda 35 Kross Supreme tires. Both wheelsets have 160mm front/140mm rear SM-RT99 discs. They sure make a screeching racket the last few meters when coming to a stop. Gotta fix that soon.
The drivetrain is Shimano 6800 Ultegra. Crankset is 46/34 with a 11-32 in the rear. Since the outer crank is more expensive, I got a 46/36 and swapped in the 34. The inner rings are less than $20 pretty much anywhere. Ultegra SPD-SL pedals. Levers are ST-RS685 and calipers are BR-RS785. Kinda wish I went with mechanical discs instead of hydraulic. Hydraulic are a bear to get adjusted just right. As it is, I'll need to re-adjust the front caliper every time I change wheelsets. The disc/hub offset is just enough different that they rub slightly. Not terribly, but enough to be noticeable. That's an easy adjustment however.
Bars and stem are Deda Elementi, seat is Sella SMP Lite 209, (I have that saddle on all my bikes, except for the TT bike). Seat post is MOst, (supplied with the frame). Only thing on the bike not Ultegra is the bottom bracket. There is so little price difference, I went with Dura-Ace for the BB.
Only thing I'm going to change is the bottle cages. They currently have side-loading Lezyne plastic cages. They work okay, but I don't like them all that much. The bottles are always crooked. I know the frame is supposed to be asymmetrical . . . but the bottles don't need to be. I'll probably put on some Blackburn gloss white carbon cages, when I can find a good price. I have those on all my other bikes, and they work well.
Going to wait awhile before I cut down the steerer tube. The stem is slammed now, but it still isn't low enough, (based on the geometry of the bike with which I had a pro fit). Deda stems are only -7 degrees, so I might have to go with something else. Then again, I'm not sure what the geometry of a gravel bike is supposed to be. More upright? If so, then I have plenty of room to bring the bars up. I'll wait for my first, real gravel road ride, then decide.
The only other thing that I can see will really bug me is that the shifter covers slide forward quite easily. They are not snug at all, compared to all my other bikes, (all Ultegra or Dura-Ace). Either I'm not doing something right, or nobody has let me in on the secret. Must be something with the geometry setup. But, my hands really didn't hurt for the two-hour, 28-mile ride.
It's a minor bummer that I won't be able to swap on my Stages crank power meter. The front part of the chain stay is just too thick. Not a worry. This is going to be my 'fun' bike. When I want to train or get some intense exercise, I'll just use one of the road bikes.
Thank you.
Just this morning, I finished wrapping the bars and a last minute adjustment on the front brakes before taking it out for its first real ride. I was able to snag the last available 2015 FCX frame in my size and this color scheme in the country. Had a shop in Oregon order it for me from Gita, (Pinarello's U.S. importer and distributor). All the remaining 2015 FCX frames are black, as are the 2016s. All-black, (other than New Zealand's rugby team), just doesn't do it for me. I'll be glad when the industry trend moves on, and back to 'colorful' bikes.
I have two wheelsets for this frame. The bike is shown here with the road wheels, Shimano RX-31. No complaints. A bit heavy, but very well made. These wheels have Bontrager AW-1 Hard Case 28mm tires. They will work well enough with rough pavement. The other wheelset for gravel use was built for me by wheelbuilders.com. They have DT Swiss 350 pull-through hubs, DT Swiss flat spokes, Velocity Aileron rims, and Kenda 35 Kross Supreme tires. Both wheelsets have 160mm front/140mm rear SM-RT99 discs. They sure make a screeching racket the last few meters when coming to a stop. Gotta fix that soon.
The drivetrain is Shimano 6800 Ultegra. Crankset is 46/34 with a 11-32 in the rear. Since the outer crank is more expensive, I got a 46/36 and swapped in the 34. The inner rings are less than $20 pretty much anywhere. Ultegra SPD-SL pedals. Levers are ST-RS685 and calipers are BR-RS785. Kinda wish I went with mechanical discs instead of hydraulic. Hydraulic are a bear to get adjusted just right. As it is, I'll need to re-adjust the front caliper every time I change wheelsets. The disc/hub offset is just enough different that they rub slightly. Not terribly, but enough to be noticeable. That's an easy adjustment however.
Bars and stem are Deda Elementi, seat is Sella SMP Lite 209, (I have that saddle on all my bikes, except for the TT bike). Seat post is MOst, (supplied with the frame). Only thing on the bike not Ultegra is the bottom bracket. There is so little price difference, I went with Dura-Ace for the BB.
Only thing I'm going to change is the bottle cages. They currently have side-loading Lezyne plastic cages. They work okay, but I don't like them all that much. The bottles are always crooked. I know the frame is supposed to be asymmetrical . . . but the bottles don't need to be. I'll probably put on some Blackburn gloss white carbon cages, when I can find a good price. I have those on all my other bikes, and they work well.
Going to wait awhile before I cut down the steerer tube. The stem is slammed now, but it still isn't low enough, (based on the geometry of the bike with which I had a pro fit). Deda stems are only -7 degrees, so I might have to go with something else. Then again, I'm not sure what the geometry of a gravel bike is supposed to be. More upright? If so, then I have plenty of room to bring the bars up. I'll wait for my first, real gravel road ride, then decide.
The only other thing that I can see will really bug me is that the shifter covers slide forward quite easily. They are not snug at all, compared to all my other bikes, (all Ultegra or Dura-Ace). Either I'm not doing something right, or nobody has let me in on the secret. Must be something with the geometry setup. But, my hands really didn't hurt for the two-hour, 28-mile ride.
It's a minor bummer that I won't be able to swap on my Stages crank power meter. The front part of the chain stay is just too thick. Not a worry. This is going to be my 'fun' bike. When I want to train or get some intense exercise, I'll just use one of the road bikes.
02-28-16, 06:18 AM
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Should be a sweet ride, so do enjoy! The DT 350/Aileron wheels sound dope; post a pic!
Hoods should definitely not be sliding. Figure that out, or hold someone accountable for doing so.
Those cages, fitted with those huge, honking bottles, do not look up to the task of retaining them on gravel rides.
Hoods should definitely not be sliding. Figure that out, or hold someone accountable for doing so.
Those cages, fitted with those huge, honking bottles, do not look up to the task of retaining them on gravel rides.
04-18-20, 07:49 PM
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Update us!
Reviving and old thread...I am looking at perhaps building up one of these.
I found a NOS frame and it seems like a good deal. How did you like this bike?
I found a NOS frame and it seems like a good deal. How did you like this bike?
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04-21-20, 09:00 AM
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First of all, I would like to thank those in this sub-forum who gave me good advice and answered my questions about gravel bikes.
Thank you.
Just this morning, I finished wrapping the bars and a last minute adjustment on the front brakes before taking it out for its first real ride. I was able to snag the last available 2015 FCX frame in my size and this color scheme in the country. Had a shop in Oregon order it for me from Gita, (Pinarello's U.S. importer and distributor). All the remaining 2015 FCX frames are black, as are the 2016s. All-black, (other than New Zealand's rugby team), just doesn't do it for me. I'll be glad when the industry trend moves on, and back to 'colorful' bikes.
I have two wheelsets for this frame. The bike is shown here with the road wheels, Shimano RX-31. No complaints. A bit heavy, but very well made. These wheels have Bontrager AW-1 Hard Case 28mm tires. They will work well enough with rough pavement. The other wheelset for gravel use was built for me by wheelbuilders.com. They have DT Swiss 350 pull-through hubs, DT Swiss flat spokes, Velocity Aileron rims, and Kenda 35 Kross Supreme tires. Both wheelsets have 160mm front/140mm rear SM-RT99 discs. They sure make a screeching racket the last few meters when coming to a stop. Gotta fix that soon.
The drivetrain is Shimano 6800 Ultegra. Crankset is 46/34 with a 11-32 in the rear. Since the outer crank is more expensive, I got a 46/36 and swapped in the 34. The inner rings are less than $20 pretty much anywhere. Ultegra SPD-SL pedals. Levers are ST-RS685 and calipers are BR-RS785. Kinda wish I went with mechanical discs instead of hydraulic. Hydraulic are a bear to get adjusted just right. As it is, I'll need to re-adjust the front caliper every time I change wheelsets. The disc/hub offset is just enough different that they rub slightly. Not terribly, but enough to be noticeable. That's an easy adjustment however.
Bars and stem are Deda Elementi, seat is Sella SMP Lite 209, (I have that saddle on all my bikes, except for the TT bike). Seat post is MOst, (supplied with the frame). Only thing on the bike not Ultegra is the bottom bracket. There is so little price difference, I went with Dura-Ace for the BB.
Only thing I'm going to change is the bottle cages. They currently have side-loading Lezyne plastic cages. They work okay, but I don't like them all that much. The bottles are always crooked. I know the frame is supposed to be asymmetrical . . . but the bottles don't need to be. I'll probably put on some Blackburn gloss white carbon cages, when I can find a good price. I have those on all my other bikes, and they work well.
Going to wait awhile before I cut down the steerer tube. The stem is slammed now, but it still isn't low enough, (based on the geometry of the bike with which I had a pro fit). Deda stems are only -7 degrees, so I might have to go with something else. Then again, I'm not sure what the geometry of a gravel bike is supposed to be. More upright? If so, then I have plenty of room to bring the bars up. I'll wait for my first, real gravel road ride, then decide.
The only other thing that I can see will really bug me is that the shifter covers slide forward quite easily. They are not snug at all, compared to all my other bikes, (all Ultegra or Dura-Ace). Either I'm not doing something right, or nobody has let me in on the secret. Must be something with the geometry setup. But, my hands really didn't hurt for the two-hour, 28-mile ride.
It's a minor bummer that I won't be able to swap on my Stages crank power meter. The front part of the chain stay is just too thick. Not a worry. This is going to be my 'fun' bike. When I want to train or get some intense exercise, I'll just use one of the road bikes.
Thank you.
Just this morning, I finished wrapping the bars and a last minute adjustment on the front brakes before taking it out for its first real ride. I was able to snag the last available 2015 FCX frame in my size and this color scheme in the country. Had a shop in Oregon order it for me from Gita, (Pinarello's U.S. importer and distributor). All the remaining 2015 FCX frames are black, as are the 2016s. All-black, (other than New Zealand's rugby team), just doesn't do it for me. I'll be glad when the industry trend moves on, and back to 'colorful' bikes.
I have two wheelsets for this frame. The bike is shown here with the road wheels, Shimano RX-31. No complaints. A bit heavy, but very well made. These wheels have Bontrager AW-1 Hard Case 28mm tires. They will work well enough with rough pavement. The other wheelset for gravel use was built for me by wheelbuilders.com. They have DT Swiss 350 pull-through hubs, DT Swiss flat spokes, Velocity Aileron rims, and Kenda 35 Kross Supreme tires. Both wheelsets have 160mm front/140mm rear SM-RT99 discs. They sure make a screeching racket the last few meters when coming to a stop. Gotta fix that soon.
The drivetrain is Shimano 6800 Ultegra. Crankset is 46/34 with a 11-32 in the rear. Since the outer crank is more expensive, I got a 46/36 and swapped in the 34. The inner rings are less than $20 pretty much anywhere. Ultegra SPD-SL pedals. Levers are ST-RS685 and calipers are BR-RS785. Kinda wish I went with mechanical discs instead of hydraulic. Hydraulic are a bear to get adjusted just right. As it is, I'll need to re-adjust the front caliper every time I change wheelsets. The disc/hub offset is just enough different that they rub slightly. Not terribly, but enough to be noticeable. That's an easy adjustment however.
Bars and stem are Deda Elementi, seat is Sella SMP Lite 209, (I have that saddle on all my bikes, except for the TT bike). Seat post is MOst, (supplied with the frame). Only thing on the bike not Ultegra is the bottom bracket. There is so little price difference, I went with Dura-Ace for the BB.
Only thing I'm going to change is the bottle cages. They currently have side-loading Lezyne plastic cages. They work okay, but I don't like them all that much. The bottles are always crooked. I know the frame is supposed to be asymmetrical . . . but the bottles don't need to be. I'll probably put on some Blackburn gloss white carbon cages, when I can find a good price. I have those on all my other bikes, and they work well.
Going to wait awhile before I cut down the steerer tube. The stem is slammed now, but it still isn't low enough, (based on the geometry of the bike with which I had a pro fit). Deda stems are only -7 degrees, so I might have to go with something else. Then again, I'm not sure what the geometry of a gravel bike is supposed to be. More upright? If so, then I have plenty of room to bring the bars up. I'll wait for my first, real gravel road ride, then decide.
The only other thing that I can see will really bug me is that the shifter covers slide forward quite easily. They are not snug at all, compared to all my other bikes, (all Ultegra or Dura-Ace). Either I'm not doing something right, or nobody has let me in on the secret. Must be something with the geometry setup. But, my hands really didn't hurt for the two-hour, 28-mile ride.
It's a minor bummer that I won't be able to swap on my Stages crank power meter. The front part of the chain stay is just too thick. Not a worry. This is going to be my 'fun' bike. When I want to train or get some intense exercise, I'll just use one of the road bikes.
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04-21-20, 01:15 PM
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First of all, I would like to thank those in this sub-forum who gave me good advice and answered my questions about gravel bikes.
Thank you.
Just this morning, I finished wrapping the bars and a last minute adjustment on the front brakes before taking it out for its first real ride. I was able to snag the last available 2015 FCX frame in my size and this color scheme in the country. Had a shop in Oregon order it for me from Gita, (Pinarello's U.S. importer and distributor). All the remaining 2015 FCX frames are black, as are the 2016s. All-black, (other than New Zealand's rugby team), just doesn't do it for me. I'll be glad when the industry trend moves on, and back to 'colorful' bikes.
I have two wheelsets for this frame. The bike is shown here with the road wheels, Shimano RX-31. No complaints. A bit heavy, but very well made. These wheels have Bontrager AW-1 Hard Case 28mm tires. They will work well enough with rough pavement. The other wheelset for gravel use was built for me by wheelbuilders.com. They have DT Swiss 350 pull-through hubs, DT Swiss flat spokes, Velocity Aileron rims, and Kenda 35 Kross Supreme tires. Both wheelsets have 160mm front/140mm rear SM-RT99 discs. They sure make a screeching racket the last few meters when coming to a stop. Gotta fix that soon.
The drivetrain is Shimano 6800 Ultegra. Crankset is 46/34 with a 11-32 in the rear. Since the outer crank is more expensive, I got a 46/36 and swapped in the 34. The inner rings are less than $20 pretty much anywhere. Ultegra SPD-SL pedals. Levers are ST-RS685 and calipers are BR-RS785. Kinda wish I went with mechanical discs instead of hydraulic. Hydraulic are a bear to get adjusted just right. As it is, I'll need to re-adjust the front caliper every time I change wheelsets. The disc/hub offset is just enough different that they rub slightly. Not terribly, but enough to be noticeable. That's an easy adjustment however.
Bars and stem are Deda Elementi, seat is Sella SMP Lite 209, (I have that saddle on all my bikes, except for the TT bike). Seat post is MOst, (supplied with the frame). Only thing on the bike not Ultegra is the bottom bracket. There is so little price difference, I went with Dura-Ace for the BB.
Only thing I'm going to change is the bottle cages. They currently have side-loading Lezyne plastic cages. They work okay, but I don't like them all that much. The bottles are always crooked. I know the frame is supposed to be asymmetrical . . . but the bottles don't need to be. I'll probably put on some Blackburn gloss white carbon cages, when I can find a good price. I have those on all my other bikes, and they work well.
Going to wait awhile before I cut down the steerer tube. The stem is slammed now, but it still isn't low enough, (based on the geometry of the bike with which I had a pro fit). Deda stems are only -7 degrees, so I might have to go with something else. Then again, I'm not sure what the geometry of a gravel bike is supposed to be. More upright? If so, then I have plenty of room to bring the bars up. I'll wait for my first, real gravel road ride, then decide.
The only other thing that I can see will really bug me is that the shifter covers slide forward quite easily. They are not snug at all, compared to all my other bikes, (all Ultegra or Dura-Ace). Either I'm not doing something right, or nobody has let me in on the secret. Must be something with the geometry setup. But, my hands really didn't hurt for the two-hour, 28-mile ride.
It's a minor bummer that I won't be able to swap on my Stages crank power meter. The front part of the chain stay is just too thick. Not a worry. This is going to be my 'fun' bike. When I want to train or get some intense exercise, I'll just use one of the road bikes.
Thank you.
Just this morning, I finished wrapping the bars and a last minute adjustment on the front brakes before taking it out for its first real ride. I was able to snag the last available 2015 FCX frame in my size and this color scheme in the country. Had a shop in Oregon order it for me from Gita, (Pinarello's U.S. importer and distributor). All the remaining 2015 FCX frames are black, as are the 2016s. All-black, (other than New Zealand's rugby team), just doesn't do it for me. I'll be glad when the industry trend moves on, and back to 'colorful' bikes.
I have two wheelsets for this frame. The bike is shown here with the road wheels, Shimano RX-31. No complaints. A bit heavy, but very well made. These wheels have Bontrager AW-1 Hard Case 28mm tires. They will work well enough with rough pavement. The other wheelset for gravel use was built for me by wheelbuilders.com. They have DT Swiss 350 pull-through hubs, DT Swiss flat spokes, Velocity Aileron rims, and Kenda 35 Kross Supreme tires. Both wheelsets have 160mm front/140mm rear SM-RT99 discs. They sure make a screeching racket the last few meters when coming to a stop. Gotta fix that soon.
The drivetrain is Shimano 6800 Ultegra. Crankset is 46/34 with a 11-32 in the rear. Since the outer crank is more expensive, I got a 46/36 and swapped in the 34. The inner rings are less than $20 pretty much anywhere. Ultegra SPD-SL pedals. Levers are ST-RS685 and calipers are BR-RS785. Kinda wish I went with mechanical discs instead of hydraulic. Hydraulic are a bear to get adjusted just right. As it is, I'll need to re-adjust the front caliper every time I change wheelsets. The disc/hub offset is just enough different that they rub slightly. Not terribly, but enough to be noticeable. That's an easy adjustment however.
Bars and stem are Deda Elementi, seat is Sella SMP Lite 209, (I have that saddle on all my bikes, except for the TT bike). Seat post is MOst, (supplied with the frame). Only thing on the bike not Ultegra is the bottom bracket. There is so little price difference, I went with Dura-Ace for the BB.
Only thing I'm going to change is the bottle cages. They currently have side-loading Lezyne plastic cages. They work okay, but I don't like them all that much. The bottles are always crooked. I know the frame is supposed to be asymmetrical . . . but the bottles don't need to be. I'll probably put on some Blackburn gloss white carbon cages, when I can find a good price. I have those on all my other bikes, and they work well.
Going to wait awhile before I cut down the steerer tube. The stem is slammed now, but it still isn't low enough, (based on the geometry of the bike with which I had a pro fit). Deda stems are only -7 degrees, so I might have to go with something else. Then again, I'm not sure what the geometry of a gravel bike is supposed to be. More upright? If so, then I have plenty of room to bring the bars up. I'll wait for my first, real gravel road ride, then decide.
The only other thing that I can see will really bug me is that the shifter covers slide forward quite easily. They are not snug at all, compared to all my other bikes, (all Ultegra or Dura-Ace). Either I'm not doing something right, or nobody has let me in on the secret. Must be something with the geometry setup. But, my hands really didn't hurt for the two-hour, 28-mile ride.
It's a minor bummer that I won't be able to swap on my Stages crank power meter. The front part of the chain stay is just too thick. Not a worry. This is going to be my 'fun' bike. When I want to train or get some intense exercise, I'll just use one of the road bikes.
04-28-20, 12:03 PM
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04-29-20, 04:45 PM
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I'm glad I went 46/34 for the chainrings. That works quite well. Not normally a speed-demon on dirt, so the 46 is tall enough. Only mod I plan to do is install a K-Edge chain catcher. I have a red one laying around that I never used and it would fit this bike fine.
04-30-20, 08:55 AM
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Thanks so much for the response. The seller seems to have a few of these frames and I have many components hanging around so I'm itching to build another bike..not that I need another bike but...
BTW I try and get out your way every year. That is more of a motorcycle thing, I fell in love with the Sawtooth area and Stanley in particular. Ill bet you are a lot further north than that though.
BTW I try and get out your way every year. That is more of a motorcycle thing, I fell in love with the Sawtooth area and Stanley in particular. Ill bet you are a lot further north than that though.
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