SRAM Force VS Shimano RS785 hydro brakes?
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SRAM Force VS Shimano RS785 hydro brakes?
For those with experience with both SRAM Force and Shimano hydro braking systems, which is the better overall choice?
I want to convert my Niner RLT 9 gravel bike to 1x, and trying to decide if I want to keep the Shimano brakes/levers and go to Wolf Tooth components Shimano 1x road route, or pull off my Shimano components and buy a full SRAM Force 1 1x11 groupset.
Also, how much money could I get for a lightly used Shimano 6800 hydro groupset?
I want to convert my Niner RLT 9 gravel bike to 1x, and trying to decide if I want to keep the Shimano brakes/levers and go to Wolf Tooth components Shimano 1x road route, or pull off my Shimano components and buy a full SRAM Force 1 1x11 groupset.
Also, how much money could I get for a lightly used Shimano 6800 hydro groupset?
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The shimano use mineral oil and sram dot 5.1. The dot can ruin your paint if you are not careful or tidy when you bleed the brakes. The shimano reportedly perform better in gritty mud as the grit gets in in the sram more and stays on the pads wearing them quicker. I have the sram and they are OK, but that is true I think.
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Thanks for the comment. I really wish Shimano would make a clutched RD that is directly compatible with their road shifters.
The main reason I want to go to 1x is extra chain retention for riding on rough surfaces, plus a couple easier climbing gears.
The main reason I want to go to 1x is extra chain retention for riding on rough surfaces, plus a couple easier climbing gears.
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I have only owned a bike with SRAM hydros, but have set up, sold and maintained both brands. While there are differences as mentioned before, both systems seem to work very well. Since you already have the Shimano system and don't seem to have complaints, I'd suggest going with the Wolf Tooth conversion. You can also use a Shimano XT or XTR rear derailleur (with clutch) by using the Tanpan.
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Thanks for the advise. I've been thinking about going the Wolf Tooth components route with their narrow wide chainring, the Tanpan and a XTR rear derailleur, GoatLink, XD driver, and SRAM 10-42 cassette.
Its either that option, or keep running 2x until SRAM 12 speed 1x road comes out.
Its either that option, or keep running 2x until SRAM 12 speed 1x road comes out.
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When I was looking at getting a gravel grinder, one thing that ended up being part of my decision making was SRAM vs Shimano brakes. As GeneO said, SRAM uses mineral oil and from what I've seen, the bleeding process is way more complicated with SRAM vs very simple with Shimano.
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Seriously, what are the "easier climbing gears" that you want to get from the 1x system? Couldn't you get them with a 2x system? Here's a comparison of 40x11-36 to 46/36x11-32: HTML5 Gear Calculator
If you went 46/34 instead, you'd need a 38T single ring to get the same low gear with an 11-36 cassette. And, of course, if you use something like Wolf Tooth's Tanpan you can use a Shimano clutched rear derailleur and use that 11-36 cassette with your 46/34 crankset.
I don't want to come across as a 1x hater. I recently built a 1x10 bike myself using Gevenalle's GX shifters and a Deore rear derailleur with a SRAM 11-36 cassette. It's a fun setup and there are legitimate reasons to choose it (my reason was that I had the cassette and derailleur and wanted to experiment). I just don't think that chain retention and lower gears are among those legitimate reasons.
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More on topic, can anyone with the SRAM levers comment on the system weight? I've got the Shimano RS785 levers and while I love how they function I was appalled at how heavy they are.
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I hate to be the guy who tells you that what you want to do is wrong, but it is.
Seriously, what are the "easier climbing gears" that you want to get from the 1x system? Couldn't you get them with a 2x system? Here's a comparison of 40x11-36 to 46/36x11-32: HTML5 Gear Calculator
If you went 46/34 instead, you'd need a 38T single ring to get the same low gear with an 11-36 cassette. And, of course, if you use something like Wolf Tooth's Tanpan you can use a Shimano clutched rear derailleur and use that 11-36 cassette with your 46/34 crankset.
I don't want to come across as a 1x hater. I recently built a 1x10 bike myself using Gevenalle's GX shifters and a Deore rear derailleur with a SRAM 11-36 cassette. It's a fun setup and there are legitimate reasons to choose it (my reason was that I had the cassette and derailleur and wanted to experiment). I just don't think that chain retention and lower gears are among those legitimate reasons.
Seriously, what are the "easier climbing gears" that you want to get from the 1x system? Couldn't you get them with a 2x system? Here's a comparison of 40x11-36 to 46/36x11-32: HTML5 Gear Calculator
If you went 46/34 instead, you'd need a 38T single ring to get the same low gear with an 11-36 cassette. And, of course, if you use something like Wolf Tooth's Tanpan you can use a Shimano clutched rear derailleur and use that 11-36 cassette with your 46/34 crankset.
I don't want to come across as a 1x hater. I recently built a 1x10 bike myself using Gevenalle's GX shifters and a Deore rear derailleur with a SRAM 11-36 cassette. It's a fun setup and there are legitimate reasons to choose it (my reason was that I had the cassette and derailleur and wanted to experiment). I just don't think that chain retention and lower gears are among those legitimate reasons.
I'm currently using the gearing of 46/34 and SRAM 11-36 w/Roadlink on my bike.
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Not to belabor the point, but a 24T chainring (commonly available on MTB double or triple touring cranks) paired with a 32T cog would give you a lower gear than 36x44. That said, you've obviously thought it through.
I guess at the end of the day I do have a bit of bias against 1x, especially from SRAM, because it bugs me that they're driving the market in directions that limit my options.
I guess at the end of the day I do have a bit of bias against 1x, especially from SRAM, because it bugs me that they're driving the market in directions that limit my options.
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Not to belabor the point, but a 24T chainring (commonly available on MTB double or triple touring cranks) paired with a 32T cog would give you a lower gear than 36x44. That said, you've obviously thought it through.
I guess at the end of the day I do have a bit of bias against 1x, especially from SRAM, because it bugs me that they're driving the market in directions that limit my options.
I guess at the end of the day I do have a bit of bias against 1x, especially from SRAM, because it bugs me that they're driving the market in directions that limit my options.