Has anyone used long reach brakes on their poprad?
08-21-06, 07:26 PM
#1
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Has anyone used long reach brakes on their poprad?
I am getting quite tired of adjusting my cantilever brakes. In comparison, dual pivot brakes on my road bike are maintence free.
I am considering running long reach calipers on the front. Has anyone here tried it?
If that doesn't work, I am considering going disc in the front.
I am considering running long reach calipers on the front. Has anyone here tried it?
If that doesn't work, I am considering going disc in the front.
09-21-06, 12:50 PM
#3
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Bikes: Cannondale: '94 R400; Lemond Poprad '06; Specialized Epic Marathon '06; Specialized Stumpjumper '89; Redline Proline Pro Cruiser '10
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Jeepers H Crackers i can't believe what i just read.
You want to mount a weaker brake in a position that provides more than 60 percent of a bike's braking power?
I have an 06 Poprad. The stock Avid brake pads were junk. I switched them for Kool-Stop's dual-compound "Mtn. Pads" and the difference was night and day. Set-up was initially a little fiddly, but i've since not had to re-adjust after lots of road and off-road riding (real off road riding with lots of fast, rough descents).
The key to canti adjustment is to do it when you DON'T need to go for a ride in 15 minutes.
Furthermore, the Kool-Stop pads have a molded rim sweeper that pre-sets toe-in. Squealing and chatter is all but eliminated. (I've never met a canti, in my 17 years of riding, that DIDN'T fuss some under adverse conditions like cold, wet, fast and hard braking, etc.)
Lightly tighten up the hardware, push the canti arm against the rim (you can disengage the spring to make this a little easier) and get the pad square and properly aligned with the rim. Hold the pad in place with one hand and tighten the hardware with your other.
Disc would be a more powerful option but bring a whole new set of maintenance considerations. (I have hydraulic discs on my mountain bike and love them.)
You want to mount a weaker brake in a position that provides more than 60 percent of a bike's braking power?
I have an 06 Poprad. The stock Avid brake pads were junk. I switched them for Kool-Stop's dual-compound "Mtn. Pads" and the difference was night and day. Set-up was initially a little fiddly, but i've since not had to re-adjust after lots of road and off-road riding (real off road riding with lots of fast, rough descents).
The key to canti adjustment is to do it when you DON'T need to go for a ride in 15 minutes.
Furthermore, the Kool-Stop pads have a molded rim sweeper that pre-sets toe-in. Squealing and chatter is all but eliminated. (I've never met a canti, in my 17 years of riding, that DIDN'T fuss some under adverse conditions like cold, wet, fast and hard braking, etc.)
Lightly tighten up the hardware, push the canti arm against the rim (you can disengage the spring to make this a little easier) and get the pad square and properly aligned with the rim. Hold the pad in place with one hand and tighten the hardware with your other.
Disc would be a more powerful option but bring a whole new set of maintenance considerations. (I have hydraulic discs on my mountain bike and love them.)
09-21-06, 10:53 PM
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Avids in general are finicky and vastly overrated. My personal feeling is they have not made a good product in the past five years.
Now, that being said, you can get some great Tektro canti's for a lot less than any Avid brake, and probably not have to touch them again until they need new pads. I'm using Mafac Racer centerpulls on my bike and remember why no one uses these things anymore. The fact there is a bolt that is about 5mm in width holding a part that is under so much stress means a crapload of flex and really, really, poor braking. I prefer to think of them as "speed reducers". I think you want to stay canti.
Now, that being said, you can get some great Tektro canti's for a lot less than any Avid brake, and probably not have to touch them again until they need new pads. I'm using Mafac Racer centerpulls on my bike and remember why no one uses these things anymore. The fact there is a bolt that is about 5mm in width holding a part that is under so much stress means a crapload of flex and really, really, poor braking. I prefer to think of them as "speed reducers". I think you want to stay canti.
