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-   -   Sodering or tying spokes (http://www.bikeforums.net/recreational-cyclocross-gravelbiking/23132-sodering-tying-spokes.html)

wanderlust 03-15-03 03:56 PM

Sodering or tying spokes
 
A few people have reccommended sodering or tying spokes in order to create a signifigantly stronger wheel. What are peoples thoughts, has anyone tried it? Can you still sdjust spoke tension after you soder? Thanks.

Andrew

Precision Pedal 03-15-03 09:59 PM

I do not reccomend it personally. A proper built wheel without going through that process can be strong as the parts allow. However it has been my experience that it looks cool, but it provides no difference at all if the wheel is built properly.

bentbaggerlen 03-16-03 08:46 AM

It looks cool, thats about it, the only thing it adds is weight to the wheels. The same for twisted spoke wheels.

TandemGeek 03-16-03 09:05 AM

Just the facts: http://draco.acs.uci.edu/rbfaq/FAQ/8c.5.html

or

With pizzaz: http://yarchive.net/bike/tying-and-soldering.html

shokhead 03-16-03 09:16 AM

W use to zip tie them on our dirtbikes so if we broke one it would stay.

gruppo 04-02-03 12:47 AM

Wanderlust - What you're asking about is a technique from the "old days" (Maybe up to about the late 70's) and was used because of the poor quality of hub flanges (Except Campy), rims, spokes, and nipples. Modern components are much improved and thus soldering/tying spokes is not necessary. However, if wheel strength is a consideration for you, there is an "old days" alternative that will solve your problem - build your wheel set with 36 hole rims, laced 4-cross, using 14-15 butted spokes & brass nipples. I've been cyclocrossing such a wheel set (With Campy Record hubs and freewheels) for almost 20 years and they're still going strong (Although, I might upgrade to a cassette rear hub in the next couple of years because old Record axles are getting hard to find). Good luck and remember, 'cross season is just a little over six months away!


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