Advertise on Bikeforums.net



User Tag List

Results 1 to 17 of 17
  1. #1
    Member dbattan's Avatar
    Join Date
    Aug 2004
    Posts
    26
    Mentioned
    0 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)

    Best way to change wheels if you have cantilevers?

    I just got a new Gunnar Crosshairs (which is sweet, btw) but one thing I did not realize. The mechanic at the LBS told me there is no easy way to switch wheelsets because the bike has cantilever brakes (Shimano). So even though there are quiick releases, he says I cannot easily pull off the CX wheels and swap them for wheels with road tires (I plan to use this as a CX bike and also as a backup road bike/winter trainer).

    He says the best thing to do is deflate the tires when you switch, because then you can pull the wheels off. This is not so bad but I wonder if there is a better way....

    I have not had a chance to look at them, and I am also mechanically un-gifted.

    Does this topic ring any bells? Thanks.

  2. #2
    Curmudgeon Wil Davis's Avatar
    Join Date
    Aug 2005
    Location
    Nausea, New Hamster
    My Bikes
    (see http://wildavis.smugmug.com/Bikes) Bianchi Veloce (2005), Nishiki Cascade (1992), Schwinn Super Sport (1983)
    Posts
    1,572
    Mentioned
    0 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)
    Quote Originally Posted by dbattan
    I just got a new Gunnar Crosshairs (which is sweet, btw) but one thing I did not realize. The mechanic at the LBS told me there is no easy way to switch wheelsets because the bike has cantilever brakes (Shimano). So even though there are quiick releases, he says I cannot easily pull off the CX wheels and swap them for wheels with road tires (I plan to use this as a CX bike and also as a backup road bike/winter trainer).

    He says the best thing to do is deflate the tires when you switch, because then you can pull the wheels off. This is not so bad but I wonder if there is a better way....

    I have not had a chance to look at them, and I am also mechanically un-gifted.

    Does this topic ring any bells? Thanks.
    I have Shimano cantilever brakes on my MTB. The straddle cable has a small protruding piece at the end which can be gripped and eased out while squeezing the brake-arms, thus releasing the straddle cable, and facilitating removal of the wheel without deflating the tyre.

    - Wil

    (I'll post some pics if you're still in the dark…)
    "………………………" - Marcel Marceau

  3. #3
    Al noisebeam's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jun 2004
    Location
    AZ
    My Bikes
    Cannondale SuperSix, Lemond Poprad. Retired: Jamis Sputnik, Centurion LeMans Fixed, Diamond Back ascent ex
    Posts
    13,916
    Mentioned
    0 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)
    Quote Originally Posted by Wil Davis
    The straddle cable has a small protruding piece at the end which can be gripped and eased out while squeezing the brake-arms, thus releasing the straddle cable, and facilitating removal of the wheel without deflating the tyre.
    Thats how all cantilevers I've ever seen are designed for opening for release. The protuding piece is often a disk about 1/8" thick 3/8" diameter and fits into a half circle cup on the break arm.
    Did the tech really install the wheel with tire deflated when building the bike?
    Al
    Last edited by noisebeam; 10-16-06 at 12:20 PM.

  4. #4
    Curmudgeon Wil Davis's Avatar
    Join Date
    Aug 2005
    Location
    Nausea, New Hamster
    My Bikes
    (see http://wildavis.smugmug.com/Bikes) Bianchi Veloce (2005), Nishiki Cascade (1992), Schwinn Super Sport (1983)
    Posts
    1,572
    Mentioned
    0 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)
    Here's a pic…

    BTW - I recently replaced a straddle-cable which had frayed, and the only ones I could find with the protrusion thingy were made by Shimano.

    - Wil
    Attached Images Attached Images
    "………………………" - Marcel Marceau

  5. #5
    Senior Member
    Join Date
    Jul 2003
    Location
    Minneapolis, MN
    My Bikes
    A few more than my fair share.
    Posts
    159
    Mentioned
    0 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)
    I've never seen cantilevers (crappy ones or nice ones) that did not open by unhooking the straddle cable on one side. Any chance the mechanic said "caliper"? I have a road caliper on a bike with cyclocross tires and I have to deflate the tire to get the wheel out.

  6. #6
    Get the stick. darkmother's Avatar
    Join Date
    Nov 2004
    Location
    Toronto, ON
    My Bikes
    12 Y.O. Litespeed MTB, IRO Jamie Roy fixie, Custom Habanero Ti 'Cross, No name SS MTB, Old school lugged steel track bike (soon)
    Posts
    1,544
    Mentioned
    0 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)
    Mechanic is a crackhead? I have two wheelsets for my CX bike (doesn't everyone) and I change them several times a week. The rims have to be comparable width, but it isn't usually a problem.

  7. #7
    Gone, but not forgotten Shiznaz's Avatar
    Join Date
    Oct 2004
    Location
    Toronto
    My Bikes
    spicer fixie, Haro BMX, cyclops track, Soma Double Cross, KHS Flite 100
    Posts
    4,509
    Mentioned
    0 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)
    I haven't been able to get the wheels off my CX bike when mounted with 32c cx tires without deflating them. Its fine with skinny road tires, but the CX tires are too fat. I tried to release the brake arms, but the straddle cable just ends with a little hockey puck shaped piece, instead of the keyhole shaped piece that is on Wil Davis' picture. As it is I have nothing to grasp to gain a decent purchase on the cable, so it stays where it is...

  8. #8
    Al noisebeam's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jun 2004
    Location
    AZ
    My Bikes
    Cannondale SuperSix, Lemond Poprad. Retired: Jamis Sputnik, Centurion LeMans Fixed, Diamond Back ascent ex
    Posts
    13,916
    Mentioned
    0 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)
    Quote Originally Posted by Shiznaz
    I haven't been able to get the wheels off my CX bike when mounted with 32c cx tires without deflating them. Its fine with skinny road tires, but the CX tires are too fat. I tried to release the brake arms, but the straddle cable just ends with a little hockey puck shaped piece, instead of the keyhole shaped piece that is on Wil Davis' picture. As it is I have nothing to grasp to gain a decent purchase on the cable, so it stays where it is...
    It can be hard to get the 'hockey puck' past its 'holder'.
    Often one has to squeeze the brakes together quite hard by hand then pop the puck out.
    If it is too tight, then I open up the brake spacing width using the in-line brake adjuster and then I can pop out the 'hockey puck' easier.
    Al

  9. #9
    Senior Member
    Join Date
    Jul 2003
    Location
    Minneapolis, MN
    My Bikes
    A few more than my fair share.
    Posts
    159
    Mentioned
    0 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)
    Not all straddle cables have the part to grab like in the picture above. Some have a little piece on the cable that you can use to push the cable end out of the cantilever. I don't even have proper straddle cables; I am currently using the moutain lever end of a brake cable as a straddle cable. It's not too hard to unhook the straddle cable by pulling the cantilever toward the rim to create some slack and then pop the hockey puck end out.

  10. #10
    Double Secret Member CaptMatt15's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jul 2006
    Location
    Raleigh, NC
    My Bikes
    2004 Gary Fisher Marlin, 2007 Redline Conquest
    Posts
    298
    Mentioned
    0 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)
    i may have an idea of what he's talking about
    i've got a brand-new '07 Conquest, with textro cantis, and even with the straddle cable pulled off, its still a squeeze to get my 35c Maxxis Locusts in and out when they are inflated (i just force the side knobs through, im too lazy to deflate them). This MAY be what he's talking about.
    2007 Redline Conquest
    2004 Fisher Marlin

  11. #11
    Member dbattan's Avatar
    Join Date
    Aug 2004
    Posts
    26
    Mentioned
    0 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)
    Thanks for all the replies so far. I think I know what to try and what the issues are now....

    This is what makes BF so great....

  12. #12
    Senior Member
    Join Date
    Jul 2002
    Posts
    727
    Mentioned
    0 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)
    if you've got your brakes set up so that you don't have a whole lot of lever travel it can be really hard to get the straddle cable undone.

    i have my brakes setup so i can just about bottom-out the lever on the bar. i have no problems releasing my straddle cable, and with 35c tires i've got plenty of room to get the wheels in/out.
    i ride bikes.

  13. #13
    Senior Member MrCjolsen's Avatar
    Join Date
    Nov 2004
    Location
    Davis CA
    My Bikes
    Surly Cross-Check, '85 Giant road bike (unrecogizable fixed-gear conversion
    Posts
    3,954
    Mentioned
    0 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)
    I have to back off (or tighten, depending on how you percieve it) the adjustment barrel adjuster at my inline lever before I can unhook the straddle cable. But that's really easy. I take my wheels off all the time without deflating them.

  14. #14
    Get the stick. darkmother's Avatar
    Join Date
    Nov 2004
    Location
    Toronto, ON
    My Bikes
    12 Y.O. Litespeed MTB, IRO Jamie Roy fixie, Custom Habanero Ti 'Cross, No name SS MTB, Old school lugged steel track bike (soon)
    Posts
    1,544
    Mentioned
    0 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)
    Quote Originally Posted by Shiznaz
    I haven't been able to get the wheels off my CX bike when mounted with 32c cx tires without deflating them. Its fine with skinny road tires, but the CX tires are too fat. I tried to release the brake arms, but the straddle cable just ends with a little hockey puck shaped piece, instead of the keyhole shaped piece that is on Wil Davis' picture. As it is I have nothing to grasp to gain a decent purchase on the cable, so it stays where it is...
    I think you're too young to have lived the cantilever adventure. They used to be high tech MTB brakes. Anyway, my straddle cable is like yours. It takes a bit of getting used to, but once you've got it, it is really easy to release. Some brake set ups are harder than others though.

  15. #15
    Gone, but not forgotten Shiznaz's Avatar
    Join Date
    Oct 2004
    Location
    Toronto
    My Bikes
    spicer fixie, Haro BMX, cyclops track, Soma Double Cross, KHS Flite 100
    Posts
    4,509
    Mentioned
    0 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)
    They were what I used when I was little, but back then I was riding ccms and various other junky mtbs that you could never get adjusted properly (but its not like I ever had the desire to take the wheel off anyways). I blame my compressionless Nokon bling cables now.

  16. #16
    Senior Member auroch's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jun 2003
    Location
    Chicago, IL
    Posts
    986
    Mentioned
    0 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)
    Some brake levers have a quick release feature built into them similar
    to how a road caliper has a quick release arm. This can make it really
    easy to change a wheel. Mine are Tektro and I think most Campy stuff
    does the same.

  17. #17
    Senior Member
    Join Date
    Sep 2003
    Location
    fogtown...san francisco
    My Bikes
    Ron Cooper, Time VXSR, rock lobster, rock lobster, serotta, ritchey, kestrel, paramount
    Posts
    2,276
    Mentioned
    0 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)
    Quote Originally Posted by MrCjolsen
    I have to back off (or tighten, depending on how you percieve it) the adjustment barrel adjuster at my inline lever before I can unhook the straddle cable. But that's really easy. I take my wheels off all the time without deflating them.
    this is what I do too, the brakes are set up with the pads pretty close to the rims. it nice to have it close but I could add a bit of slack and I could get the cable off, but its pretty easy to back off the barrel on the top levers. but thats only if you have the top levers.
    fogriderlooking for sun

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •