Converting To Disc Brakes
#1
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Converting To Disc Brakes
Soup everyone.
I don't actually race CX, so I want to put some disc brakes on my bike. I'm fairly sure I need disc specific hubs and /a disc specific fork?/. What hubs do you guys think I should go with and what's the price on them. And would I actually need a new fork?
KTHNXBAI
I don't actually race CX, so I want to put some disc brakes on my bike. I'm fairly sure I need disc specific hubs and /a disc specific fork?/. What hubs do you guys think I should go with and what's the price on them. And would I actually need a new fork?
KTHNXBAI
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Avid BB7 Road Disc Brakes 2007 - $53
https://www.universalcycles.com/shopp...ls.php?id=8693
Dimension Cyclocross Fork - $55
https://www.universalcycles.com/shopp...ls.php?id=6995
add a wheel built with a disc-compatible hub......
https://www.universalcycles.com/shopp...ls.php?id=8693
Dimension Cyclocross Fork - $55
https://www.universalcycles.com/shopp...ls.php?id=6995
add a wheel built with a disc-compatible hub......
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disc brakes are awesome, god's gift to cyclists who want to stop fast. the amount of money/trouble required depends on a few factors.
a)whether or not your fork has mounts. if the left fork blade has a bulge with some holes in it, you're probably good, if not you'll need a different fork.
b)the mounts and spacing on your frame. as MIN will tell you, 130mm spaced disc wheels are few and far between. 135mm spaced disc hubs are much more common. if you have mounts then great, otherwise a disc brake up front with a canti on the rear will provide 90+ percent of the benefit.
what you got?
a)whether or not your fork has mounts. if the left fork blade has a bulge with some holes in it, you're probably good, if not you'll need a different fork.
b)the mounts and spacing on your frame. as MIN will tell you, 130mm spaced disc wheels are few and far between. 135mm spaced disc hubs are much more common. if you have mounts then great, otherwise a disc brake up front with a canti on the rear will provide 90+ percent of the benefit.
what you got?
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Your STI shifters/levers, or any road aero levers will work fine with the BB7 Road. Make sure to get the road version of the BB7.
Figure $10 for housing and the costs that slopvehicle mentioned for the low-end of the spectrum.
The lightest carbon disc only fork is the Bontrager Switchblade which comes on the Poprad and other Trek/Lemond/Fisher bikes. It's 660 grams. WoundUp makes a great one too. You can go cheaper and marginally lighter with carbon disc compatible forks if you don't mind the canti studs. (I do mind it, it's completely fugly.)
Hubs on the high-end will be $150 - $200 for Chris King, White Industries or Phil Wood quality. DT 240 are great as well and commonly spec'ed on Reynold's factory wheels.
I suggest you run front disc only. That's where all the power comes from. The rear is mostly there for aesthetics and really doesn't benefit from discs other than cleaning up the rear lines of the seatstay.
Figure $10 for housing and the costs that slopvehicle mentioned for the low-end of the spectrum.
The lightest carbon disc only fork is the Bontrager Switchblade which comes on the Poprad and other Trek/Lemond/Fisher bikes. It's 660 grams. WoundUp makes a great one too. You can go cheaper and marginally lighter with carbon disc compatible forks if you don't mind the canti studs. (I do mind it, it's completely fugly.)
Hubs on the high-end will be $150 - $200 for Chris King, White Industries or Phil Wood quality. DT 240 are great as well and commonly spec'ed on Reynold's factory wheels.
I suggest you run front disc only. That's where all the power comes from. The rear is mostly there for aesthetics and really doesn't benefit from discs other than cleaning up the rear lines of the seatstay.
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Old thread, but Shimano hubs are resonable ~30 for deore, ~70 for XT. I built a front wheel with a dmr revolver hub. It's nice and light, and so far decent quality.
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The nashbar carbon fork is a rebadged winwood and can often be had for around 200 dollars, I think. Otherwise there are quite a few steel forks that would work well and be much cheaper, though heavier.