Maybe if you convert the bike to moustache or bullhorn bars and keep those levers, they are somewhat less horrible. But on the drops... nope.
A few upgrades on the Uno today ...
44t Salsa chainring and CF bash guard. The finish on the CF isn't "pretty", but it's functional and super light.
Excess Technologies 17t freewheel and Surly tugnut. The Excess freewheel is a three-pawl, 30 points of engagement design and is much nicer than the stock Dicta freewheel that BD includes. Nearly instant engagement and almost silent coasting.
Combined with the 44t chainring, this gives me 69.9 gear inches. I found the stock 64.1 gearing was too low for the road, and not low enough for Cyclocross. This combo gives me almost 19 mph at 90 RPM, which is comfortable in the flats, and still lets me get up bridges and survive headwinds. I'll be picking up the 20t version for CX season which will give me 59.4 GI.
Last, but not least ... I ditched the stem mounted front brake cable hanger and installed a Tektro fork mounted hanger instead. I hadn't really noticed any major brake judder problems with the stock setup, I just didn't like the looks of it or the feel of the extra drag from the cable making the bend through the "noodle".
I had to drill out the hole on the back side of the fork to make it big enough to get the barrel nut through. If anyone has questions about the quality of the steel used in the FCX Uno fork, let me assure you it's *really* hard stuff :)
This one came out of left field for me. Saw it on CL and thought it would fill a need. Turns out to be a 2012 version but still, a mess when I picked it up.
Thought for sure the frame was scratched up bad but a good cleaning showed the paint was undamaged. Can't say the same for the components.
The seat was broke at the nose so off it came and a Bontregger Affinity 2 took its place. The stem was way out there so it got replaced with a 110
Ritchey. Nice fit happening. The crank is another matter, the pedal was turned in there off kilter so the threads on the drive side are ugly. Might get the
threads chased and see if it helps or just dig through the bin for something else. Brake pads are a definate replace item.
Attachment 360935 I like the look overall but wish to change it so it's not like all the other CX Motobecane Unos out there.
Most important thing is to get this out on the trail and have fun with it. Needed changes first, wishes later.
It has potential. :)
Mine just broke 4800 miles.
In October, I swapped the Alex SUB wheels I'd been using with the original Jalcos. Once trued, they have done just fine.
I just picked up the Redline chain tensioners for it and will be following up with some stainless axle nuts, too. The thing is a tank and I love it.
Thanks ! It's always fun to consider the possibilities of a new ride and make it your own. So many changes possible...
I plan on staying with the Jalco wheels. Definetely plan on having them trued and tensioned. Q? Why use the drop out tensioners ? Don't the nuts hold the wheel straight ? Also, I noticed the front axle is hollow, can it be cut down and made into a QR hub ? Or maybe better to score another hollow axle already sized to this hub ?
First this crank with the messed thread worked out.
Hey, did I see a pic of your Moto in front of a building in Chapel Hill ? My old stomping ground !
... for the Bottle opener :beer:Quote:
Why use the drop out tensioners ?
1. Why the tensioners? Mostly because I have some difficulty getting the wheel centered AND the chain tension adequate at the same time. I can have one right and the other just close enough. I figure turning a screw to do it might be easier. Also, with a rear rack, the interplay of axle nut, chain tensioner, and rack mount is difficult, so I bought the Redlines, which do not have a bottle opener.
2. I do not think the hole in the hollow axle is big enough for sticking a QR axle in, but I could be wrong. There are nutted to QR adapters out there, though... I haven't been interested because I figure the nuts help with theft-resistance a little.
3. Chapel Hill-- Yeah, we moved here last April. I shipped the Uno UPS so I had something to ride to work just in case the movers were late. :)
I found the Jalcos to be a surprisingly decent wheelset (for as cheap as they must be). They're relatively light and once I tensioned and trued mine, they stayed true even after a couple of Cross races.
The front axle will fit a QR if you can find a good way to cut it to the right length. I almost went down that path. Instead, I just picked up the PDW tire lever with the built in 15mm box-end on the other end. Throw it in with your spare tube and as long as you have the stuff to fix the flat, you have what you need to get the wheel off. Note that the hubs use cartridge bearings, so odds of finding a QR axle with the exact same bearing shoulders is not good (my LBS didn't even want to try). The front hub is pretty heavy, so you'd be better off just replacing the whole hub with a road QR hub. Of course then you need different length spokes and a complete wheel rebuild, so the cheap and easy answer is find a wrench that fits your saddle bag and don't worry about it :)
Tensioners are simply a time saver if you frequently remove the rear wheel. I had different freewheels for cross and road and the Surly tugnut made it much quicker to set the chain tension each time I swapped. And I must admit the bottle opener did come in handy after a CX race :)
I hear what your saying about keeping a 15mm handy but I plan on keeping this bike in my tiny car. I will have to be taking the front wheel off and on quite a bit.Thought it would be easier on the axle threads.
If I follow what you're saying, this axle isn't just a straight axle but one that has shoulders permanent to it ? Does anyone else make this type of axle but intended for QR ?
I appreciate the shared knowledge.
3speedslow, I regularly transported my Uno in the back of my Corvette, so front wheel went on/off often. Axle threads and track nuts are steel (as are dropouts) so you don't need to worry too much about wear and tear. You only need about 20 ft-lbs on the nuts (and the front is usually fine with much less). Lightly grease the threads now and then and you should be able to mount the wheel thousands of times without issue.
The problem with replacement axles is that they are sold to match specific hubs so they don't publish the bearing shoulder dimensions. Someone with access to a large assortment might be able to measure and find a match, but without any standards for this kind of thing it would take some luck.
I have no idea about the axle, but I may have to take it apart and lube it soon-- it's getting a little crunchy. But I did get the chain tensioners on with only a little filing off of the end of the rack legs.
Fellow Uno owners,
Got some saddle time in, looking forward to the gravel trails. Update finds the crankarm threads retapped and holding for now. Gonna fit some 32s on the rims for a better grip.
Attachment 362062 Thanks all for the info bits.
Anyone know where to get one in 56? Im living in europe and can't find any sellers.
Can anyone tell me how tall the headtube is on a frame size 54?
I will get out the tape and measure it tonight.
Not sure how much longer I am going to keep my Uno... it's pretty hilly here and I carry too much crap to work.
I'll be looking forward to the resultat ,)
Metric tape measure says 105ish mm, caliper says 105.8mm.
Thank you sir!