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Old 01-18-09, 07:46 PM   #1
justsayyes
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Eno Eccentric hub tightening...

I have the Eno rear hub on a frame with beefy vertical dropouts. Any comments on just how tight is too tight? I stood my way up a pretty steep hill today - very short - and the hub rotated. After that I cranked down the bolts a fair amount and on the short hill home (road this time), it slipped again, though only slightly.

I afraid to crack the bolts...

I'm 6'0" & 195 lbs.
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Old 01-18-09, 10:32 PM   #2
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The hub slipping is prima facie evidence that you didn't tighten them enough.

Or not.
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Old 01-18-09, 10:55 PM   #3
Mike552
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Use some type of abrasive washer on all the 4 contact points.
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Old 01-19-09, 08:59 AM   #4
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Use some type of abrasive washer on all the 4 contact points.
That is a Bad Idea atmho.

BTW tighted non-drive-side first.
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Old 01-19-09, 09:33 AM   #5
justsayyes
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That is a Bad Idea atmho.

BTW tighted non-drive-side first.
OK, but why is that? Just curious...
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Old 01-19-09, 11:22 AM   #6
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I was thinking about something like this. In either case, it would have to be very thin with sharp little teeth. (Sounds like my ex, actually...)
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Old 01-19-09, 11:24 AM   #7
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Or, if you think washers are a no-go, you might want to try to replace the stock nuts with ones that have a more abrasive contact point... (This is something I had to do to get rid of my ex...)
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Old 01-19-09, 01:48 PM   #8
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Adding more washers would simply give more places for the hub to slip. The hub is designed to dig into the dropout over a large contact area to prevent slipping. The nuts are very nice and have built-in washers.

You tighten non-drive-side first, because tightening the drive-side is in the direction of slacking the chain. Here is the procedure:
1. Find location of cranks which gives most chain tension (no chainwheel is perfectly round or centered).
2. With crank at that location, put a bit of weight on the saddle while tightening the non-drive-side nut.
3. Tighten drive-side nut.
4. Check chain tension.
5. Final tightening. Don't be wimpy.

Et voila.
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Old 01-21-09, 02:23 AM   #9
justsayyes
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Adding more washers would simply give more places for the hub to slip. The hub is designed to dig into the dropout over a large contact area to prevent slipping. The nuts are very nice and have built-in washers.

You tighten non-drive-side first, because tightening the drive-side is in the direction of slacking the chain. Here is the procedure:
1. Find location of cranks which gives most chain tension (no chainwheel is perfectly round or centered).
2. With crank at that location, put a bit of weight on the saddle while tightening the non-drive-side nut.
3. Tighten drive-side nut.
4. Check chain tension.
5. Final tightening. Don't be wimpy.

Et voila.
Thanks! What you said makes sense and I'll try that. I did hear from White Ind. and they basically said don't be afraid to crank the bolts as well.
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