Help me build my Gunnar
#1
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Help me build my Gunnar
I have been a roadie for 3 years, and am only on my second road bike. Both bikes (and my fixed gear) I bought stock, fully loaded. Now I want to get into cross, but am gonna buy a Crosshairs frame and fork and build it up (actually, get the bike shop to do it).
Considerations:
1. Need the build to come in under $600 ($400 would make the wife smile and leave me husband points for a nice wheelset to race with later on).
2. This bike needs to be pretty much cross-race ready (except for the wheels).
3. It will serve as my second "road" bike for rainy days, or when the road bike is in the shop (my maintenance skills are lacking).
4. I have the following parts on hand to use- Centaur shifters, brakes(can these be used for cross?), and rear derailleur, Record front derailleur, Chorus chainrings (50/34), Record cassette (23-11), Zonda wheelset. I have no crankarms.
I tried the search function, but did not like what I found. Plus, if I have questions I would like to ask the people that make the suggestion. Thanks!
Considerations:
1. Need the build to come in under $600 ($400 would make the wife smile and leave me husband points for a nice wheelset to race with later on).
2. This bike needs to be pretty much cross-race ready (except for the wheels).
3. It will serve as my second "road" bike for rainy days, or when the road bike is in the shop (my maintenance skills are lacking).
4. I have the following parts on hand to use- Centaur shifters, brakes(can these be used for cross?), and rear derailleur, Record front derailleur, Chorus chainrings (50/34), Record cassette (23-11), Zonda wheelset. I have no crankarms.
I tried the search function, but did not like what I found. Plus, if I have questions I would like to ask the people that make the suggestion. Thanks!
#2
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You'll need cantilevers on a Gunnar cross bike. They're cheap so don't worry. There's lots of genuine Campy CT, compact, cranks for crazy cheap prices on ebay. Most of them less than a $100. What wheelset could you buy better than Zonda's? They're indestructable and not that heavy. I'm running a set now on my road bike.
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you need new brakes. Everyone will recommend Tektro CR720s with kool stop salmon pads. They are cheap and they work, but you may want to go with a low profile brake in the rear.
Seat post: Thompson
seat: whatever you like
Aluminum stem and HBar: I like Ritchey, but that is just me.
Crankset. There are so many, but you can probably get something cheap and good through PBK. I would recommend aluminum, but carbon is used with great success.
Headset: Chris King
You might want a cassette with a bigger range to it.
Tires: probably something really fast as you live in mudless CA. Maybe hutchinson pirahna tires
Seat post: Thompson
seat: whatever you like
Aluminum stem and HBar: I like Ritchey, but that is just me.
Crankset. There are so many, but you can probably get something cheap and good through PBK. I would recommend aluminum, but carbon is used with great success.
Headset: Chris King
You might want a cassette with a bigger range to it.
Tires: probably something really fast as you live in mudless CA. Maybe hutchinson pirahna tires
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great suggestions, jonestr.
i'd also suggest a smaller big chainring, like a 46 or 48.
as far as tires, i'd suggest ritchey speedmax's. they're light, ride well on the road, shed mud well, and worked great for racing in the arid colorado climate. they performed great on dry stuff, but also did well in mud, or soupy, overwatered grass. i also love them for snow and ice winter riding. for racing, i ran them at 35 psi, without ever pinch-flatting. i weigh 155.
i just got a pair of michelin mud's that i'm going to try next season. i'll probably use them in all conditions. or i may run one in the front and a speedmax in the back.
i'd also suggest a smaller big chainring, like a 46 or 48.
as far as tires, i'd suggest ritchey speedmax's. they're light, ride well on the road, shed mud well, and worked great for racing in the arid colorado climate. they performed great on dry stuff, but also did well in mud, or soupy, overwatered grass. i also love them for snow and ice winter riding. for racing, i ran them at 35 psi, without ever pinch-flatting. i weigh 155.
i just got a pair of michelin mud's that i'm going to try next season. i'll probably use them in all conditions. or i may run one in the front and a speedmax in the back.
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Thomson seatpost and CK headset are great and trendy and cool if you aren't on a budget. In a whole life of bike riding I've never had either component fail, so I don't quite get the obsession.
Also, no need to change gearing, until you've done a couple cross races and have a feel for what you like and don't. Sure, 34 to 50 is a pretty wide range, but there's nothing that says you can't use it. The 34 would probably serve you 95% of the time, the 50 for the rare pavement descent or what.
Also, no need to change gearing, until you've done a couple cross races and have a feel for what you like and don't. Sure, 34 to 50 is a pretty wide range, but there's nothing that says you can't use it. The 34 would probably serve you 95% of the time, the 50 for the rare pavement descent or what.
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Thomson seatpost and CK headset are great and trendy and cool if you aren't on a budget. In a whole life of bike riding I've never had either component fail, so I don't quite get the obsession.
Also, no need to change gearing, until you've done a couple cross races and have a feel for what you like and don't. Sure, 34 to 50 is a pretty wide range, but there's nothing that says you can't use it. The 34 would probably serve you 95% of the time, the 50 for the rare pavement descent or what.
Also, no need to change gearing, until you've done a couple cross races and have a feel for what you like and don't. Sure, 34 to 50 is a pretty wide range, but there's nothing that says you can't use it. The 34 would probably serve you 95% of the time, the 50 for the rare pavement descent or what.
Forgot to mention the gearing, but you definitely need to fix that up right.
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CK headsets are all hype. I can say this because I own one. Like flargle said, I've never had a headset or seatost fail on me either, and in retrospect, spending $110 on a headset was ridiculous of me.
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#12
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While it isn't a bad group, that's not what he asked. He has a budget and parts in the shop he's going to use.
A Rival group would require new wheels and cassette putting the project far over the $600 budget. You can buy a Shimano compatible cassette hub from Campy but it's expensive.
A Rival group would require new wheels and cassette putting the project far over the $600 budget. You can buy a Shimano compatible cassette hub from Campy but it's expensive.