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Thread: Mini V brakes?

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    Mini V brakes?

    I cant get my avid short 4's to stop squealling (front only), and ive heard a lot of good things about "mini" v brakes like the tektro RX5. Are there any negatives to it? I would need to use it with drop brifter style levers (9 sp dura ace). Also, whats some good mini V's to look at on the budget? I only need one as my back canti works awesome (locks the wheel just fine, zero squeaking).
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    just from what i've gathered, it works. the only thing is that you will probably have to set the pads very close to the rims, which may cause issues with mud clearance in a race, or when changing tires, etc. i'll be building up my kona jts with tektro rx5s and campy veloce ergo levers this coming week or two, i'll let you know how that goes.

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    Right now I have to set my avid's ULTA close to the rims (like one mm) or I dont get crap for braking power....how could this be any worse?

    Are the tektro RX3/RX1 any worse? All three (rx5/3/1) seem to be in 85mm, with the new RX6 in 90 (would 90 be worse?)
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    get tektro CR 720
    They are relatively new and work really well for the price. Much better than any avids.

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    Any more info? The mini V's are just so cheap...and I only need one! Would a BMX mini V work or is there not enough clearance? Do I want 90, 85, or 80 length arms?

    Those cantis look nice, but Im not sure if I want another set of cantis....I do have a light (easton EC90X) carbon fork.
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    dunno if you've seen this, but it's pretty informative:
    http://forums.roadbikereview.com/sho...ricross+brakes

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    Read that, I more just want recommendations on cheap ass V brakes (since I am poor). Or, alternatively, does anyone know where I can buy just ONE RX5 ? I dont need two, as my rear canti works perfect and I dont even feel like messing with it
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    mine squealed a lot too. i just ordered the tektro CR720 from treefortbikes.com, on sale for $19 each right now.

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    Quote Originally Posted by kawasakiguy37 View Post
    Right now I have to set my avid's ULTA close to the rims (like one mm) or I dont get crap for braking power....how could this be any worse?

    Are the tektro RX3/RX1 any worse? All three (rx5/3/1) seem to be in 85mm, with the new RX6 in 90 (would 90 be worse?)
    IIRC I've got one 80mm arm and one 85mm. Don't remember what model but I can look at them if needed.
    A buddy set his up with travel agents so he could run more pad clearance and is very happy. I just run the pads tight and am very happy. Both were Tektro BMX mini v's of some sort.

    They were cheap and work loads better than the stock Tektro canti's that came on the bike, even after those were swapped to Kool Stop pads.

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    So the bottom line is....should I go with a new canti front brake (and which one?) or just get one of these mini V's? I think ill leave the rear as avid and just change the pads
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    Quote Originally Posted by kawasakiguy37 View Post
    So the bottom line is....should I go with a new canti front brake (and which one?) or just get one of these mini V's?
    I've been quite happy with a mini-V plus travel agent:
    http://www.jensonusa.com/store/produ...vel+Agent.aspx

    Without the travel agent, the brake lever doesn't pull quite enough cable, atmho, ymmv, etc. Just take the time to install the travel agent correctly.

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    Quote Originally Posted by flargle View Post
    I've been quite happy with a mini-V plus travel agent:
    http://www.jensonusa.com/store/produ...vel+Agent.aspx

    Without the travel agent, the brake lever doesn't pull quite enough cable, atmho, ymmv, etc. Just take the time to install the travel agent correctly.
    Instead of a Travl Agent, which is kind of cludgy, use the Tektro V-Brake levers. They cost about the same as a Travel Agent. Total package should weigh less because you're using 2 less parts per bike.
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    Quote Originally Posted by cs1 View Post
    Instead of a Travl Agent, which is kind of cludgy, use the Tektro V-Brake levers. They cost about the same as a Travel Agent. Total package should weigh less because you're using 2 less parts per bike.
    Travel agents are no kludgier than cable noodles and the weight is negligible (10g, I believe). OP is using Shimano STI, so he couldn't use the long-pull levers anyway.

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    I just finished mounting Tektro mini-vs on my Fuji Cross this weekend. Front brakes were a simple bolt on and set up. Rear required a travel agent which added a whole 2 minutes to the install process. Short ride around the neighborhood only so far but they feel better than the Avid 4 cantis that came with the bike. More control (it's easier to apply light brake pressure) and more total stopping power (and I had put koolstops on the cantis).

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    I got the Tektro Mini V's on my Focuc Mares. Worked OK at the front but sucked at the rear. (105 brifters, not enough cable pull). Took some old XT 91 cantis with black Koolstop pads and put them on the rear. This seems to be a very good setup, good braking and no shudder or squeels.

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    How much clearance do you get though on the fronts? Im about to order tektro CR720s or these miniV's....but I will do cross racing for sure. I dont need one for the back
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    Quote Originally Posted by jch3n View Post
    just from what i've gathered, it works. the only thing is that you will probably have to set the pads very close to the rims, which may cause issues with mud clearance in a race, or when changing tires, etc. i'll be building up my kona jts with tektro rx5s and campy veloce ergo levers this coming week or two, i'll let you know how that goes.
    Did you consider Campy's own Veloce mini-v? They're supposed to be hot in Europe.
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    Quote Originally Posted by kawasakiguy37 View Post
    How much clearance do you get though on the fronts? Im about to order tektro CR720s or these miniV's....but I will do cross racing for sure. I dont need one for the back

    The clearance at the front wheel is quite OK, you do have to squeese the arms quite hard to loosen the wire though, but punctures don't happen all that often with the front wheel anyway. I am not impressed with the way the Mini-V's handle dirt and salt, the bushings need to be well oiled for the brakes to stay centered.

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    So should I just go with a more traditional tektro Cr720? They are the wide style ones......such debates!
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    ffs it's been two weeks just do something

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    Whatever I do will be my final decission though, as I have no way to afford an alternative. I think I am just going to go with the mini V's because they are so much cheaper.
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    Go with the cr720, you wont regret it.

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    i think that if you're racing, you'd probably still be better off with cantis. but i did get my mini-v brakes installed finally.



    that's about how much clearance you get, probably a little less cuz i think my brake is off centered in this pic. and here's a pic of lever pull:



    as you can see, i don't bottom out even without travel agents in order to get effective braking. the lever feel is a little mushy but the brakes stop the bike wonderfully, about as well as any dual pivot brake i'd say (with my limited experience).

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    Quote Originally Posted by jch3n View Post
    i think that if you're racing, you'd probably still be better off with cantis. but i did get my mini-v brakes installed finally.

    that's about how much clearance you get, probably a little less cuz i think my brake is off centered in this pic. and here's a pic of lever pull:

    as you can see, i don't bottom out even without travel agents in order to get effective braking. the lever feel is a little mushy but the brakes stop the bike wonderfully, about as well as any dual pivot brake i'd say (with my limited experience).
    Clearance is wider than the fork.

    Not bottoming out is a minimal requirement for a brake. In order not to bottom out, you need to place the pads very close to the rims, which is a much more important factor in mud clearance than the arms (which, again, are wider than the fork itself).

    Install travel agents and experience better braking with less fidgety setup.

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    Quote Originally Posted by flargle View Post
    Clearance is wider than the fork.

    Not bottoming out is a minimal requirement for a brake. In order not to bottom out, you need to place the pads very close to the rims, which is a much more important factor in mud clearance than the arms (which, again, are wider than the fork itself).

    Install travel agents and experience better braking with less fidgety setup.
    eh, i meant pad clearance. and true, the pads are pretty close to the rims, but i'm not racing cross anytime soon so i'm pretty happy with the way it is.

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