Cross pressure
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Cross pressure
im a good old fat boy in the sport of cycling...i weigh 206...what kind of tire pressure should i be running? just a ballpark figure be awesome...im just not too sure where to start
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depends on the course and depends on what type of tire and set up you have, tubular, tubeless, or clinchers
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I normally run around 45-50 psi. Others claim to run lower, but I can't avoid pinch flats below 40 psi in 35mm tires.
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Remember to chalk/talc your tires and tubes to avoid pinch flats.
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Anything less than 14.2 psi. That wa the tubes benefit from osmosis of atmospheric pressure, and gain pressure rather than lose it. It also gives you the added benefit of reducing the wear on rims and components...
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I run at around 35-40 PSI, which is 5-10 PSI below the recommended minimum on my Maxxis Locust CX tires (clinchers), and I haven't had a pinch yet, so I've been thinking about going lower. I weigh 185 now, but I weighed around 200 last season and I used the same pressure.
The courses I've ridden have been pretty soft. If I had any rocky sections or drops to deal with I'd probably go with a higher pressure.
The courses I've ridden have been pretty soft. If I had any rocky sections or drops to deal with I'd probably go with a higher pressure.
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I think this is something you need to test out. Expensive test though because you could go through many tubes. I am safe running 40psi with my Maxxis Raze's and I am about 150lbs.
What is this chalk/talc thing about? I have never heard of doing this.
What is this chalk/talc thing about? I have never heard of doing this.
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talc your tubes so that the tube can slide more freely underneath the tire. I dont know if it cuts down on pinch flats, but it should lower your rolling resistance and makes changing tubes easier as they wont adhere to the casing.
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During last weeks race I was bottoming out several times on the rear and it was quite squirley in the corners. I didn't pinch flat and that was on a clincher. I'm sure that the talc job saved me from a DNF.
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[QUOTE=jonestr;9700363]talc your tubes so that the tube can slide more freely underneath the tire. I dont know if it cuts down on pinch flats, but it should lower your rolling resistance /QUOTE]
Myth.
Brandt designed tyres - the very successful Avocet Fasgrip was his work.
Myth.
https://yarchive.net/bike/tire_talc.html
In the days before tubeless tires on cars, automotive tubes that were
not much thicker than the heavier bicycle tubes vulcanized into the
tire from the heat of the road and would rip when forcefully removed.
For this purpose, talcum was extensively used. Bicycles don't have
enough power not enough rolling resistance to generate vulcanizing
temperatures required to cause such adhesion so using talc has little
purpose. You'll notice that tubes contain talcum, and that is for the
purpose of preventing adhesion in the package of two absolutely clean
surfaces. You don't have that problem. In fact, adhesion of the tube
to the casing prevents rapid air escape in the event of a thorn
penetration.
Talcum, like tying and soldering, will last as much as 40 years after
the last need for it vanished. The last need for tying spokes
together at their crossings vanished with high wheeled bicycles that
threw the rider if a spoke broke and lashed about freely. Talcum in a
bicycle tire never had a reason, it has always been done in imitation
of automobiles, but even they don't use it anymore.
Jobst Brandt
In the days before tubeless tires on cars, automotive tubes that were
not much thicker than the heavier bicycle tubes vulcanized into the
tire from the heat of the road and would rip when forcefully removed.
For this purpose, talcum was extensively used. Bicycles don't have
enough power not enough rolling resistance to generate vulcanizing
temperatures required to cause such adhesion so using talc has little
purpose. You'll notice that tubes contain talcum, and that is for the
purpose of preventing adhesion in the package of two absolutely clean
surfaces. You don't have that problem. In fact, adhesion of the tube
to the casing prevents rapid air escape in the event of a thorn
penetration.
Talcum, like tying and soldering, will last as much as 40 years after
the last need for it vanished. The last need for tying spokes
together at their crossings vanished with high wheeled bicycles that
threw the rider if a spoke broke and lashed about freely. Talcum in a
bicycle tire never had a reason, it has always been done in imitation
of automobiles, but even they don't use it anymore.
Jobst Brandt
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You may want to play with the psi on your tires a bit. I am 195lbs and I run my tubulars from 30-40 and my clinchers from 35-45.
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[QUOTE=meanwhile;9700404]Whatever the method, every untalced tube I have had has formed a bond with the tire. Work in a bike shop for 10 years and you will find this phenomenon quite often.
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I normally ride in the 35psi range on grass/soft.. 40 or so on hard packed.. 40 will still bottom out on square faced bumps at speed.. so pick lines carefully and get weight off as needed. (i hit rim twice last week, luckily no pinch flats)
I'm 185#, 35c tires.
I'm 185#, 35c tires.
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I weigh 130 lbs and with my new tubluars I am running 60 psi now. Rolls great but doesnt grip as well. I think i'll lower them to about 50 psi.
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I was running my tires (30's) at like 35 psi and I could push down on the tire and see it bottom out, but nothing happened.
It's insane how critical psi is in this game.
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Unless you are on an ultra soft course I would be extremely wary of running that low of a pressure on a clincher
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