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  1. #1
    Cat 4 roadkill
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    Racing build for a Surly (DT shifters?)

    Right now, my Surly is built up as a commuter, with a rack, panniers, etc. I'm trying to figure out exactly what I should change for race season.

    It's got kind of a weird build right now: 105 derailleurs and DA 7800 downtube shifters, with some Tektro levers pulling Kore wide-stance cantilevers. It's got a 1st-gen Rival crank, and I'm running 53/39 because it's sort of a dual-purpose bike that gets ridden on the road as well. For racing, it'll effectively be a somewhat low-geared 1x10; I can't imagine using a 53t ring in a CX race.

    I already know I'm going to swap out for a carbon fork, and possibly a shorter stem and wider bars. However, I'm kind of conflicted about what to do with the drivetrain. The way I see it, I have a few options:

    1) Keep the DT shifters and look like a total badass
    2) Swap out the right DT shifter for a barcon
    3) Swap the right shifter for an STI lever
    4) Swap the right shifter and rear derailleur for Rival

    Option 1) puts me at the obvious disadvantage of having to reach down to shift in a CX race. Option 2) isn't much better, since I rarely ride the drops in CX. Not gonna do it. Option 3) seems like the most cost-effective and intelligent way to go. Option 4) would be optimal for CX, but I'm on a budget - if I buy Rival, it'll be an upgrade for my road bike, and the Surly would get banged-up Ultegra 6600.

    So my question: I know it's stupid, but just HOW stupid would it be to race with downtube shifters? Realistically, it's between 1) and 3). I plan on keeping the DT for the front, both for Lance Armstrong points and because I'm not going to be shifting it anyway.

    On that note, does anyone have any experience riding a 1x10 setup with a Tektro/Cane Creek lever and a Shimano 10-speed brifter? Does it feel weird?

  2. #2
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    AFAIK this will work with your rear shifter, one for $35:

  3. #3
    Cat 4 roadkill
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    Quote Originally Posted by flargle View Post
    AFAIK this will work with your rear shifter, one for $35:
    I should've mentioned, I have kinda small hands (can't shift Campy or Sora from the drops), so I doubt I'd be able to shift one of those across a reasonable range without moving my hand from the brake hood - in which case I'd be just as well with a barcon!

  4. #4
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    Quote Originally Posted by pretzelface View Post
    I should've mentioned, I have kinda small hands (can't shift Campy or Sora from the drops), so I doubt I'd be able to shift one of those across a reasonable range without moving my hand from the brake hood - in which case I'd be just as well with a barcon!
    Barcon? Brifter? WTF decade is this?

    If you spend any time on the tops, you'll prefer the thumbie to bar-end. Even if you spend all your time on the hoods, you'll prefer the thumbie to bar-end.

    If you want to be totally rad, run flat or riser bars with thumbies.

  5. #5
    Senior Member bluenote157's Avatar
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    I wouldn't do the sti route. One nice fall in the mud/sand/etc.. and that thing is toast. I went with a campy ergo cuz its rebuildable.
    I actually had a build with the tektro and a right sti... it felt different on the hands but it was insignificant really...


    If you are on a budget, why dont you buy some pods from rivbike and use your existing dt shifter as a barcon?

    If you have a <$150 to spend, you can do what i mentioned above or you can buy a used campy ergo 10speed and shimano/sram 9 speed cassette and use the hubub method to change the pull of the cable. Or, if you want to keep your 10speed setup, you can get a the proper jtek device so a 10ergo will work with you 10 shimano cassette.

    With that said, my surly is a 1x9 and has the following:
    9speed SRAM cassette
    sugino messenger crankset
    some ****ty fd as a chainkeeper
    shimano ultegra rear
    campagnolo 10 speed right ergo with cable routed hubub
    cane creek left brake lever

  6. #6
    Cat 4 roadkill
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    Quote Originally Posted by bluenote157 View Post
    I wouldn't do the sti route. One nice fall in the mud/sand/etc.. and that thing is toast. I went with a campy ergo cuz its rebuildable.
    Never had any problems with the Dura-Ace 7700 STI's on my old CX bike, and I crashed it many, many times in sand, mud, water, rocks, etc. I'm not concerned about the durability; for better or worse, I trust STI's. Campy isn't really an option for me, because I like to run my hoods rather high, and with small hands, I can't shift the thumb lever very easily from the drops. Granted, I'm rarely on the drops in a CX race, but I still like to be able to shift in a sprint!

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