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  1. #1
    RT
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    My first CX build...ever

    I'm liking Lectron's teaser thread about his Green Machine, and thought I'd follow his lead.

    This will be my first build ever - the wrenching bug bit me around the beginning of the year in the dead of winter. If you can't ride, you might as well work on the bikes. That being said, the fact that I couldn't ride due to weather has inspired me to build a 26" Cyclo Beast. Now, I'm not sure how to define a cyclocross bike, by wheel size or by intended purpose. This build doesn't seem like a MTB as it will have drop bars, but it does have a MTB frame. It is essentially going to be a serious off 'road' bike.

    I'll be taking a few parts from my old Giant Rainier and moving them over, and have most of what I need lying around in my garage. As you may have guessed, she'll be all black with the exception of two items to be named later.

    For starters...(minus the decals)


  2. #2
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    I'm interested in seeing this. Keep 'em coming!

  3. #3
    Made in Norway Lectron's Avatar
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    Come on.......



    The world is always ready for a new CX
    Quote Originally Posted by The Dude
    Weight weenieness is a disease very often caused by the lack of good results. Just a few steps below doping in terms of desperation

  4. #4
    Team Water Andy_K's Avatar
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    I'm liking this trend. Maybe we need to set up a rotation of people to post builds and get us CX junkies through until fall.

    Now lets see some more parts.

  5. #5
    RT
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    Let's add a little color, but only a little. This is going to be a BLACK bike with a bloodline.


  6. #6
    RT
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    Found another crankset to use instead of the one planned. As it happens, I have a set with a 44t big ring, vs. a 42t on the other one. Need to make sure the BB is ok, otherwise a new one will have to be purchased.

    Frame is one week out from delivery, other parts arrive tomorrow. Sequels to this post coming soon to a BF forum near you...

    EDIT: Recall I am removing the mid and small rings, as well as leaving the front dérailleur off the bike. She'll be a 1x9.


  7. #7
    RT
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    Ok, in need of opinions on this build. Since I am foregoing the smaller rings on the crank, the front shifting is not an issue, however I'm keeping the 9 speed in the back. I don't want to invest at least $60 for a pair of bar end shifters, only to use one. I'd like to keep a large unit off the tops of the drops, but figure even if I go for the smallest thumb shifter I can find (Falcon, Pyramid, Paul's), it is still something on the tops, so why not just use my Deore right hand shifter? If I do this, cable routing becomes iffy. If I mount on the right hand side, the top tube routing requires the derailleur cable to go down the right side of the bike. This would create a very sharp bend in the cable as it is mounted on the right hand side of the bars.

    I could mount on the left, but I'm so used to proper shifter setup, it would take some getting used to. My preference is to keep the shifter as unobtrusive, both functionally and cosmetically, as possible. I was thinking of possibly mounting a friction shifter on the right in the drops, below the brake lever. I'd also like to keep all cables hidden.

    I know, tall order. Any ideas?

  8. #8
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    Just route it as directly as possible, but with plenty of slack for turning the bars, and be done. Test out and see which side of the steerer tube you want to route. Protect the frame from cable rub.
    http://i261.photobucket.com/albums/i...g?t=1207498288

  9. #9
    RT
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    The bloodline of the build - grey housing, but it is darker (and cooler) than the picture...



    At work now, just made the blunder of trying to change the cable config on my commuter. The bar end shifters did not follow the line of the bars, instead just coming out of the bar ends and into the barrel adjusters.



    After unwrapping the bars (I always double wrap) and cutting the crimp off the end, then taping the new housing along the intended route, realized my mistake of now having a cable about two feet too short Instead of re-wrapping the old way, going to ride home in the tall gear and attend to this matter upon arrival with the new cable I forgot to pack on the trip to work

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    Are you going with disc brakes?

  11. #11
    RT
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    You bet I am. I had considered going to a mini-V setup to accommodate STI levers in the front, but it would have increased the cost of the build prohibitively (calipers, wheels are disc-only, STi levers). The discs are long-pull, like V-brakes, so the Tektro long pull drop levers should work fine. They work great on my commuter with V's.

  12. #12
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    So I am guessing you are going with MTB wheels or can you even put 700c on that frame?

  13. #13
    RT
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    No, it is a 26" frame. The only reason I'm posting it here is because Lectron inspired me, and I have most of the parts. It will look like and be used as an offroad/quasi-cyclo rig, not raced, and not hucked like a MTB. I like the frame because it is more traditional - I am not a fan of the sloping top tube...

    Eureka.

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    Quote Originally Posted by Toddorado View Post
    No, it is a 26" frame. The only reason I'm posting it here is because Lectron inspired me, and I have most of the parts. It will look like and be used as an offroad/quasi-cyclo rig, not raced, and not hucked like a MTB. I like the frame because it is more traditional - I am not a fan of the sloping top tube...

    Eureka.
    Ah gotcha. It's awesome to see all these custom builds. I really wish I could put together my own bike but I am afraid to even work on my current bike other than cleaning the tranny in fear of messing something up. Although I did have a dream last night that for some reason I got myself another road bike and changed out the fork on my cross comp for a disc fork and swapped out my 105 stuff for 11-speed Alfine and took the bike to a CX race like that.

  15. #15
    RT
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    I also have a Cross Comp, and I'm not yet comfortable enough with carbon forks to trust them with discs at the end. Something about the physics of laying on the brakes where the braking is applied at the base of the fork rather than the top. I know, probably unfounded. I like my rigs bomb-proof, but not 35 lbs either. My estimate for this build will be about 27 lbs.

  16. #16
    RT
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    Tektro Aero brake levers (RL520), FSA 'Hammer' headset...more pics this weekend.


  17. #17
    Riding like its 1990 thenomad's Avatar
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    inspiring, I think I'll post pics of the bike I'm building... if my box of parts ever gets here.

    hey, about the barcons: did you have luck running the cable along the handlebars? Hows the friction of shifting? Too many bends? Works perfectly? I'd like to try that setup instead of the "hanging cables" look.
    My blog about rides, bikes and builds: ridesgoneby.blogspot.com

  18. #18
    RT
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    Since this is a budget build, I'm going to have to start off with the 9 speed Deore shifter I have and mount it as inconspicuously as I can on the tops. In the Mechanics forum, it was recommended for serviceability that the derialleur cables remain outside of the tape, which makes sense. There may be some friction with barcons that affects indexing, but you could always use friction mode. I think if you use quality, new housing and cables, wrapping under the tape would work just fine. Post your build - this is fun! Just can't wait for the frame. It arrives Tuesday, and I'll just bring in the headset and fork for install (I don't have the tools for those).

    Here's the fork and some basic brake cables. I swapped out the 42t for the 44t today - crank is ready to go.


  19. #19
    RT
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    So, the weekend brought a bunch of changes. Thank God I waited until today. Nashbar's 20% off sale has convinced me to change out a few components.

    Changing from disc brakes/wheels (from the old bike) to rim brake Vuelta ZeroLite wheels ($63 after discount/before shipping), which means I need to change MTB disc calipers (from the old bike) to mini V-brakes ($9.95/pair), which changes my levers from long pull ergo Tektro brake levers to Microshift brifters ($100 after discount at Performance LBS).

    The trouble all started when I could not get my old Deore right shifter mounted on the drop bar. I considered a small and cheap friction shifter, but while this component change is a little more expensive, for the components I'm getting I almost feel like I'm stealing them.

    Pictures to come...

  20. #20
    Riding like its 1990 thenomad's Avatar
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    I've really wanted to check out the Forte shifters. Let us know how they are.
    I'd say that's a good deal for all that stuff.
    My blog about rides, bikes and builds: ridesgoneby.blogspot.com

  21. #21
    RT
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    nomad, I almost bought two sets of those Vuelta wheels. I have some Vuelta Corsa HD wheels, and they spin like there's no tomorrow. As usual, Nashbar is extending the 20% deal. I may add another set just because they're so cheap.

    EDIT: Dammit, I called Nashbar, and while they could not modify a web order, they gave me such a deal on the second set of wheels that I had to get them. $69.99 BEFORE 20% discount. Shipping is a bit excessive, but hey, I'm not arguing.
    Last edited by RT; 05-24-10 at 09:59 PM.

  22. #22
    RT
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    Here's the latest. The Vuelta ZeroLite wheels arrive on Tuesday, and aside from that, I have everything I need. Apologies for not adding pics as parts arrived. Here's the bike, loosely assembled. since it is all black, it is hard to make out the mini V brakes. Cleaned the chain and installed the crank/BB, installed levers and Origin8 seatpost with an old Fuji Velo saddle. The wheels you see are only to keep the bike upright. I wish the geometry was more road-like, but the cost of MTB parts being so minimal dictated the build. The wheels will have 26x2.0 Forte VersaTrac tires, so that may make up some of the gap between the down tube and the tire.

    Still to add: Wheels, tires, right side friction shifter, black bar tape (or maybe white), black bottle cage (or maybe white), pedals (Crank Bros Smarty, black & white), cables and housing (dark grey). Almost there.


  23. #23
    Riding like its 1990 thenomad's Avatar
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    All black looks nice, good score on the wheels, too bad they are not 700c at that price or I'd have two as well! But I just picked up some Ultegra/open pros on the forum so I'm good now.

    Those bars look really big though, the drop seems excessive. Is this fit up to you? The stem seems long too but I'm thinking you got a small er frame due to the frame style's longer top tube?

    You NEED to get red cables to go with the bottle cages!, and then black out anything else that is not yet black, like that RD.
    Last edited by thenomad; 05-27-10 at 07:07 PM.
    My blog about rides, bikes and builds: ridesgoneby.blogspot.com

  24. #24
    RT
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    When I posted the pic, the bars looked huge to me too, but they are the same bars that are on my commuter (a 21"). The frame is a 20" - I ride either a 19" or a 21" in MTB, and a 56cm or 58cm in road. I'm a tweener. The stem is 130mm, flipped. I may flip it back up, but think I'll need the reach (I'm 6'1"). I like the geometry, but thought the TT would be a little flatter. Since I'm committed to grey housing, I think I need to abandon the red cages and go with black or white (I have two of each).

    And the seatpost is all the way down - I'll be raising it quite a bit, which will dictate if I flip the stem back.

    EDIT: re: the bars - they are Dimension 44cm.
    Last edited by RT; 05-27-10 at 10:08 PM.

  25. #25
    Riding like its 1990 thenomad's Avatar
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    If the seatpost were raised then I can see it'd all make more sense.

    Well then, black, just go black all around. What did you pay for the gray? I'd even trade with you for the black cable housings I got from the LBS. Gray would look fine on mine. Black would seal the deal on yours.

    Bartape? Black?

    I thought you were doing Forte brifters?
    My blog about rides, bikes and builds: ridesgoneby.blogspot.com

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