Andy_K 

I'm probably not going to do this, because I've already got two CX bikes and lower-third master C racer only needs so many pit bikes, but I've suggested before something like this as a way to get into CX racing on the cheap so I thought it would be fun to at least plan it through.

For starters, I bought a 1989 Specialized RockHopper from Craigslist:



Specialized went to a sloping top tube in 1990, so the '89 model is a score. I paid $120 for this one, which I thought was a bit high, but it was in really great shape -- like new except for the paint and decals.

The bike came with cantilever brakes, and I've got an old drop bar in the garage which happens to fit a 25.4 mm clamp, so I'm well on my way:



Performance has their cork bar tape on sale for $4.99, so I picked up a set of that.



Also in my parts drawer were a pair of Tektro 200A brake levers and a SRAM 12-26 8-speed cassette.





I could leave this as a 7-speed with the cassette it has, but it's got a freehub (FH-M452), so I figured, why not upgrade? I was able to find an 8/9 speed Shimano freehub body at a local co-op for $5.



The bike has a 48-38-28 square taper crank set with removable Biopace chainrings. I figure I'd remove the small chainring and swap in an appropriate cartridge bottom bracket to fix the chainline.

So, right now I'm into this for $130. I figure about $20 for the bottom bracket, $60 for bar end shifters if I can't get a used set cheaper on eBay and maybe $60 for 26" Schwalbe CX Pro tires, if I don't want to use regular MTB tires out of the garage. Finally, cables and I could probably wrap this up for around $300. The downside, it weighs about 30 pounds.

What do you think?

Unagidon

How about something like this instead of bar ends?

https://cgi.ebay.com/SHIMANO-ST2300-S...item35aa43fff2

I thought about doing that to an older rigid mtb I had, but kept it in it's original condition just because it was in such super, close to brand new condition. Would be kinda neat actually.

knobster

I did one of these projects last year with an '87 Bianchi Grizzly. You're lucky you have the rear canti. I have a U-Brake. Not good for cross racing.

I wouldn't use it for racing as that would be a beast to have to shoulder. For $300, I think you could get a cheap, older cross bike. But it's a fun project. I used mine for a commuter.

Edit: I was actually talking about my Grizzly today with my wife. I think I'm going to take it back to a MTB instead and use it to play around on the trails.

Andy_K 

Yeah, I'm probably going to use mine as a commuter too. I might eventually put drop bars on it, but if I do I'll probably spend even more money and go with STI shifters.

Those 2300's that Unagidon linked too might be an appropriate choice for a bike like this, though I've seen Tiagra for not much more and I've got a 9-speed Ultegra cassette burning a hole in the bottom of my parts drawer. I've also got some Avid Speed Dial brake levers, so I think a switch to V-brakes may be in this bike's near future, along with maybe some Deore M590 shifters.

flargle

I think switching to drop bars is a mistake. Maybe (maybe) moustache bars. But not road drops.

If it were me, I'd convert it to singlespeed using magic gear or maybe a tensioner. That, and the tires, will shed a bunch of weight.

thenomad

SS sounds like an interesting option, but OR may be too hilly to make it practical?

You may also find the thumb shifters slide right on that small diameter road bar you posted. 25.4 clamp and it steps down so it might be the right size. I'd say just get a different rear freewheel if you feel like it needs one and run 7 on the cheap. I wouldn't build it up to the $300 mark unless there are a lot of parts you can use on other bikes in the future.

If a commuter is what you want then use as much of the bike as is, swap tires and add fenders, racks, lights, whatever will make it an urban assault vehicle.

Andy_K 

Why do you say that?

flargle

Look at where the grips are currently, and picture where the brake hoods would be if you slapped on road bars: too far forward and low. IMO it would screw up the fit and handling. I don't think dirt drops would work, either, because it's recommended that you place them really high and spend most of your time in the hooks.

You might say, Just put on a riser stem, but the stem is already really steep and high.

Moustache bars might be a reasonable compromise and AFAIK they still make them in the right clamp diameter (or just shim it). A moustache bar is essentially a dirt drop with even less reach and drop and more flare.

But really, flat bars would work great. Frischknecht got a silver medal in CX Worlds on flat bars the year before the UCI outlawed them, winning a one-up sprint for second.

thenomad

Those old mountain frames are so long in the top tube that fit does become an issue and need a big riser stem with little reach.
I was really tempted with a small size Kona rigid I got a while back. Decided the hassle was too much for me although I probably should have make it into a 26" BMX cruiser. I got it for $25, so you are into it for a much higher cost.

flargle

IOW designed to be used with a certain kind of stem and handlebar.

knobster

I actually completely agree with him Andy. Same issue with mine. Had to put a seriously stupid looking adjustable stem on it to get it to fit right.

Andy_K 

Yeah, I can definitely see the point, but the effective top tube is about 3 cm shorter than my Muirwoods 29er, and I made that work with drop bars (albeit with a really stubby stem). Plus, while the current stem is steep, it's also flush with the top of the headset stack, and the head tube has a pretty slack angle (70.5 according to an old Specialized catalog), so any extension there will shorten the reach a bit.

Anyway, I'll definitely give it a try with the flat bars, but I think drops are possible.

thenomad

Yeah, it all depends on the fit to you. Make it happen and see how it feels.

cs1

I've got that same bike, at least mine is a Comp. There is no place to anchor the rear brake cable for a V-Brakes.

cs1

Bens has the perfect stem for a drop bar conversion.



Another alternative from Bens and Nitto.

flargle

Yeah so I guess you could buy one of these periscope stems and make a drop bar "work", but if the goal is building a cross bike on the cheap, what's the point? [Not to mention that it ends up making the bike look fugly but that's obviously a subjective matter.]

cs1

Here's some drop bar MTBs. https://forums.mtbr.com/showthread.php?t=598337

flargle

Reading that thread is a great way to convince yourself not to convert to drop bars. In fact, here is what the owner of that Monster Fat wrote:
"I tried DD's on my Monster. It just took too much rise and reach to get comfortable. Mostly because my neck can't take the traditional low, forward position. It rides pretty well on smooth singletrack, but I get nervous on rough singletrack with that much stem showing."

Here's a page of dirt drops done right:
https://www.mtbtires.com/features/bik..._dropbars.html
It requires either a purpose-built frame or radical (i.e. custom) stem to put your hands in the right position. I found this out by trying myself.

cs1

The Rockcombo is basically a Rockhopper with a drop bar.



A classic Bridgestone drop bar MTB



A link to a nice spread on the Rockcombo: https://public.fotki.com/VintageMTBR/...ckcombo/1.html