How I improved my Tektro Oryx canti's
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How I improved my Tektro Oryx canti's
Well, my motobecane fantom came with tektro oryx cantilevers... needless to say stock setup left much to be desired.
First step was to add Koolstop Cyclocross 3 compound pads... HUGELY improved. They had probably 50% more braking surface.
Second step was to add a link wire (pic from sheldon's site)
I made my own link length with brake line
Third was to eliminate the interrupter brakes and the 'elbow' that went down to the wire hanger on the front. Not sure if it was the interrupters or the elbow being eliminated, but my brakes are much better now
First step was to add Koolstop Cyclocross 3 compound pads... HUGELY improved. They had probably 50% more braking surface.
Second step was to add a link wire (pic from sheldon's site)
I made my own link length with brake line
Third was to eliminate the interrupter brakes and the 'elbow' that went down to the wire hanger on the front. Not sure if it was the interrupters or the elbow being eliminated, but my brakes are much better now
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Nice job. I used the same link wire when I set mine up and it helped a bunch. I've passed them on now because they drove me nuts to set up.
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Most low-profile cantis come with too-long straddle cables. I don't think it's the size of the brake pads as much as the rubber compound. I've seen photos of those "Motobecane" cross bikes and the front cable housing from bartop lever to cable stop was too short. You need a pretty long run of housing that loops over the bar and stem for it to work well.
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for those interested, i raced today, modulation wasn't great on this setup. I feel like there was too much mechanical advantage, got a lot more front fork shudder, and my rear was either on or off with the brakes (little bit of stopping power to locked up). I am going to fiddle with it tonight, and will see what i can come up with. It's possible i'll go back to the saddle setup
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You might want to finish the job and switch to a fork mounted canti hanger. You'll lose the shudder and modulation should be excellent - and power should be a revelation. Kona make a nice one.
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I'll have to look into that, Meanwhile, i will keep messin with my current setup until that time comes...
haha, get the little pun there?
haha, get the little pun there?
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You should never have to point out the pun.
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See, the funny part about pointing out the pun is that you shouldn't have to point out the pun if in fact it is a good pun. Which obviously mine was
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My '09 Cross Comp came with this exact setup. I too removed the bar-top levers, and aside from new housing and cable, everything else remained the same. The elbow seems necessary, so I kept it in the system. I did not have to change the straddle at all, and what you have pictured in the OP is exactly what mine came with, so I'm not understanding what you changed there. Did your Oryx setup not come with a link wire?
Thanks for the recommendation on the pads. The Stock pads are ok, but Kool Stop is where it's at. I have full-size V-brakes on my monster crosser with Travel Agents, and my oh my, the brakes are almost too good. If I weren't so lazy right now, I'd do the same and replace my Oryx brakes on the Cross Comp, but for now, pads will have to do.
Thanks for the recommendation on the pads. The Stock pads are ok, but Kool Stop is where it's at. I have full-size V-brakes on my monster crosser with Travel Agents, and my oh my, the brakes are almost too good. If I weren't so lazy right now, I'd do the same and replace my Oryx brakes on the Cross Comp, but for now, pads will have to do.
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