Jamiebel

I am having a problem with the set up on my Jamis Nova. The front brake cable is hitting the shifter cables when I turn. This is applying pressure to the cable and applying the front brake. The shifter cables attach to braze ons at the head tube. The head tube is 1 inch. There is not much turn in the hanndlebar before the brake is applied. Any suggestions on a fix??

Thanks, Jamie

BlastRadius

Not much you can do for that. Maybe loosen the brake so that when it does catch, it doesn't apply the brake. How often do you turn your bar that far during riding anyway?

DPCX

I agree, i doubt you will be turning the bars that far. One thing i do on all my road/cross bikes is to switch the der cables so the right shifter cable/housing crosses over the head tube & into the left side barrell adjuster & do the same with the left shifter. You can then cross the cables back underneath your downtube. This actually decreases the hard bend you have in your housing when its routed the other way & definately improves shifting too. I've raced plenty of muddy cross races & have never had any trouble with this set up. Good Luck!!

DP

namaste1978

Jamie,
Try a fork mounted cable stop. I have one on my cross bike and it works great. They are also great at eliminating that horrible brake shutter you get when braking.

BlastRadius

Where do you find one of those to buy seperately? One came with my Redline frame but I've not found it for sale seperately.

namaste1978

Hey,
Not sure where to get one online but just go to your LBS and they can order one for ya. I work for a shop and we have a dozen or so on hand at all times. I strongly recommend them to everyone with carbon or aluminum cross forks. Steel forks don't shudder so it's not a problem with them. Here's a pic for everyone else that hasn't seen one.
Good Luck!

BlastRadius

What is the exact part name and number (if you have it)? Do you order it from QBP or some other distributor?

Racing Aardvark

I've seen PLENTY of steel forks shudder, including several IFs. I've also seen lots of carbon and aluminum ones not shudder. Come to think of it, one of the IFs had the worst shudder/stutter I'd ever seen and no matter how you toed-in the brakes it was not fixable.

ed6061

Crossing over the der. cables underneath the down tube is a good option, you can also cut long housing from the shifters to the downtube braze-ons such that the shifter housings overlap in front of the head-tube - but still stay on their side when meeting the braze-on.

dessert1st

Jamie, what year is your Jamis Nova. I have a 2003 (I think) which doesn't have that problem. The shifter bosses on mine are standard downtube bosses. When I turn the handlebars the shifter cables just move out of the way of the brake cable.

Sounds like namaste1978 has a good approach, try a fork mounted cable stop. With it mounted the brake cable housing should hit the shifter cables instead of the inner cable , so braking shouldn't be affected when turning. It's somewhat of a guess though since you don't know if you'll run into other interferences.

dessert1st

BTW, how do you like your Nova?

Jamiebel

I like it. Its very stable on the technical courses but it feels like a truck when sprinting on pavement. (better than a cannondale though). Its 631 renyolds and very damp. It has a steel fork with no brake shutter or squeal. If I had to chose again I would look for steel with a slightly lower bottom bracket and shorter chain stays and fork rake. The bike's wheel base could be a little tighter. The BEST part is that its pumpkin orange!!

Dorf411

The fork mounted cable hanger shown above is horrible on the 01 (Orange) Jamis Nova. I had the same bike and it came stock with that setup and changed it to the cable stop similar to the original poster's setup which is the best bet.

The Jamis design is just piss poor, if you get the fork mount you will have a solid connection to the fork then have rigid cable housing that bumps into your shift cables when you turn your bars. This eventually causes damage to the housing which could affect shifting. At least with the flexible cable as shown in the OP it will move and not damage the shift cables.

I used that as my primary reason to sell my 01 Jamis and buy an new 03 Jamis which uses normal downtube shifter boses as the cable attachment point.

WorldWind

Can the adjusting barrels at the braze-ons be moved to the levers? If not just remove them.
Also you want to use a break housing with a shortened ferrule at the braze-on or just remove the ferrule and replace it with a piece of shrink sleeve.

As an aside your breaks are not set up optimally. The angle at the center pull cable is way to small. Readjust so that the triangle rides about 1 inch off the tire. Yes I know it means a new cable.

namaste1978

Very good point! Yea, looks like it would interfear with those dumb a%# cable stops. Alright, I take back what I said, don't use that fork mount on your bike! lol
Why anybody would use them on a frame without lugs is beyond me! They used to be up on the headtube like that because they were part of the lower headtube lug. But on a non lugged frame? Why would they do that. Schwinn used to do that on some of their road bikes and actually realized how crappy it was and offered retrofit cable stop barrel adjusters that had a little more clearance.

Dorf411

Cable stops on the head tube may not be so obtrusive on a bike with caliper brakes but for Canti's they pretty much suck.