JC 911

Curious in terms on what alot of people run on their CX bike.

My Scott came stock with a 46-36 with an 11-26 cassette. I went for a ride on the road today in lieu of my road bike and really struggled up some hills that normally wouldn't be too much of an issue for me. Granted my CX bike is heavier and I run an 11-28 on the road bike. Thinking about putting an 11-28 or 12-27 on the CX bike...

Grivooga

I run a 12-27 with a 48/38 but I'm a clyde and not the fittest. I only really use the 27 on really steep hills. The kind that are probably actually faster to run up if I didn't hate running so much.

Brian@TreeFort

If you're racing cross at all, I would stick with the 12-27 on the cross bike. Having the 11 tooth isn't really necessary for the kind of terrain you'll be dealing with on a cross course unless you're getting into elite class races where the pace is practically that of a crit . I run a single 42t ring up front and a 12-25 in the rear, and for normal riding I generally feel like I run out of easy gears when I try to climb. I think with a 36 and a 27, you'll be just fine for most standard climbing, since that won't be a much bigger gear than a road compact anyway.

M_S

11-28 for dirt roads and singletrack, 12-25 for racing. Single 42 ring during the season, some sort of double in the off, usually.


Lots of options for cross, really. None of them wrong exactly

mzeffex 

39 with 12-27.

cachehiker

Single 39t up front, 11-28 when the bike is set up for cross, 11-32 when it's set up with racks, panniers, and fenders.

dddd

Given the importance if getting a strong start (dusty conditions in Sacramento) I use a wider-ratio MTB cassette. The wider spacing works to advantage firing off early, full-power shifts and cruising to the front.
With all the slow downs each lap, I appreciate the advantage that the big cassette gives at the start of each acceleration. I rarely leave the big ring (50t), but reserve the extra reduction for any opportunities to stay on the bike and pedal past riders that are portaging their bikes.
An 11-32 cassette can become a narrower 12-32 and put on a 7-speed freehub body allowing a stronger, less-dished wheel build. I lost my first opportunity at a first-place finish a few years back because of a rear rim bent during a controlled slide-out, and the extra year it took me to get a first "B" win has made me a strong-wheel advocate.
A road derailer can work fine on the 32t cog, I found.

holychipotle

depending on the course a larger cassette may be the ticket. I run a 12-25 on the same crankset as you but I can climb like a billy goat

thirdgenbird

18t






with a 39 up front. (i have a 42t as well)

droobieinop

I started out on a single speed 36x18. Then I got a new ride with a 46/36 x 12/25, I live in florida where its quite flat and luckily we've had no mud, so this has been fine for me. I normally run a 52//40 x 12/23 on the road.

adam_mac84

currently run 46/36 with 12-26, for racing and winter riding (michigan), i rarely leave the 36t ring. I am thinking of going 1x9 next season with a 39t and 11-30 (9spd). I have had instances on soggy flats where I wish i had an extra gear

martialman.45

46/36 with 11-28. Just got the bike and cross season is over so i've been sporting a road wheelset with 11-26 latley