V Brakes with new generation STI levers?
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V Brakes with new generation STI levers?
I know the newest 105-DA STI levers pull more cable and only 'work' with same generation calipers. I am interested to learn how well these levers work with V-brakes. Not with mini-v brakes, not with travel agents; just regular v brakes with current gen STI levers and their altered mechanical advantage.
If there are, as I assume, already relevant threads on this matter, please link to them (sans snark about location of seach box plox).
Context: Just fleabayed used Tricross Elite frameset with intent to use for double centuries or beyond and fireroad riding. And I hate cantis.
If there are, as I assume, already relevant threads on this matter, please link to them (sans snark about location of seach box plox).
Context: Just fleabayed used Tricross Elite frameset with intent to use for double centuries or beyond and fireroad riding. And I hate cantis.
#2
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So much anger. Cantilevers, IMO, are more of an art than skill to adjust. They really work well if set up properly. What I personally found true about cantilevers is you need a clean rim and the correct amount of toe in. Even standard, read non Kool Stop, pads work well on a clean rim.
As for your original question, if the levers work with road brakes then no they won't work with a V-Brake. Good luck.
As for your original question, if the levers work with road brakes then no they won't work with a V-Brake. Good luck.
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I can't speak to your question about the new generation of cables, but you should try it and let us know.
Seriously though, I recently installed V-brakes with Travel Agents and previous generation STI levers and I'm loving it. I can't see why anyone who is using their CX bike exclusively for non-racing purposes doesn't do this. Yes, I have put in the time and effort to learn how to setup a canti, but with the V-brake, it was just easy and with no effort gave me great braking.
Of course, the worry with the new generation levers is that if they don't quite work without a Travel Agent, they might not quite work with a Travel Agent either, since their cable pull is different.
Seriously though, I recently installed V-brakes with Travel Agents and previous generation STI levers and I'm loving it. I can't see why anyone who is using their CX bike exclusively for non-racing purposes doesn't do this. Yes, I have put in the time and effort to learn how to setup a canti, but with the V-brake, it was just easy and with no effort gave me great braking.
Of course, the worry with the new generation levers is that if they don't quite work without a Travel Agent, they might not quite work with a Travel Agent either, since their cable pull is different.
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I tried it on a 2010 Tricross Comp with 105 levers. Didn't work well at all. Had to put the travel agent on it. I to am not a fan of canti brakes. I sold this Tricross and am thinking of selling my other Tricross since buying another cross bike that accepts disc brakes. That's how much I dislike them. Sorry, not up to hate yet...
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#8
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I'd guess 5600 since it looks like that was what was standard on the comp.
And to my broader question, it look like maybe there isn't a knowledge pool about this combination yet.
M_S, I would imagine you're certainly right that even the new STI is still pulling less cable than a true V lever, but as I am not concerned about mud clearance, I am fine with running the pads *reasonably* close to the rim.
On a previous bike, I ran 9 speed ultegra STI with mini-v brakes and was unimpressed. I had excellent braking but the pads were unacceptably close to the rim and it was almost impossible to pop the quick release without a cable adjuster noodle. I also was unsatisfied with the quality of the mini-vs but that was 2004 and I know there are better options available now. I'll consider going with mini-vs again but I understand the tricross has rather generous tire clearance and even though I'm mostly going for road here I don't want to limit my options unnecessarily.
And to my broader question, it look like maybe there isn't a knowledge pool about this combination yet.
M_S, I would imagine you're certainly right that even the new STI is still pulling less cable than a true V lever, but as I am not concerned about mud clearance, I am fine with running the pads *reasonably* close to the rim.
On a previous bike, I ran 9 speed ultegra STI with mini-v brakes and was unimpressed. I had excellent braking but the pads were unacceptably close to the rim and it was almost impossible to pop the quick release without a cable adjuster noodle. I also was unsatisfied with the quality of the mini-vs but that was 2004 and I know there are better options available now. I'll consider going with mini-vs again but I understand the tricross has rather generous tire clearance and even though I'm mostly going for road here I don't want to limit my options unnecessarily.
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Well I ordered a complete 5700 groupset so things are moving here. Turns out a local bike shop has a Co-Motion Americano set up with Ultegra 6700 STI and Single Digit V brakes. No Travel Agents. Do not be starstruck by the reputation of the infallible USA/Oregon/Hand made boutique brand signing off on the matter; the setup was actually profoundly unimpressive. Too little pad clearance and the levers bottomed out way too easily. Yours for only $2500, on sale from $3849!
So, mini-v brakes then. Anyone have any experience with either the Tektro RX5 or the Tektro BX25? Looks like the former has 85mm arms and the latter 95mm arms. I would expect the shorter arms to work better even with the newer STI levers but I would like the max tire clearance possible. Anyone know what a RX5 will clear?
So, mini-v brakes then. Anyone have any experience with either the Tektro RX5 or the Tektro BX25? Looks like the former has 85mm arms and the latter 95mm arms. I would expect the shorter arms to work better even with the newer STI levers but I would like the max tire clearance possible. Anyone know what a RX5 will clear?
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So, mini-v brakes then. Anyone have any experience with either the Tektro RX5 or the Tektro BX25? Looks like the former has 85mm arms and the latter 95mm arms. I would expect the shorter arms to work better even with the newer STI levers but I would like the max tire clearance possible. Anyone know what a RX5 will clear?
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Yeah everything is in. I went all spendy and stuff and bought a set of TRP CX-9s, thinking maybe I spend a little more money upfront and get something that really works. The fscking pivots are stiff on two of the four caliper arms. I'm so glad the pivots are made of titanium, that really makes up for the fact they don't work AT ALL.
So, until those get RMAed, I'm running full size Tektro V's with the 5700 STI, and indeed the braking is inadequate. What the hell was Co-Motion thinking speccing a fully loaded touring bike this way?
So, until those get RMAed, I'm running full size Tektro V's with the 5700 STI, and indeed the braking is inadequate. What the hell was Co-Motion thinking speccing a fully loaded touring bike this way?
#14
Riding like its 1990
I built my wife's bike with mini-v and Tiagra brifters. It stops scary good. You have to readjust your finger pull because they grip better than the cantis.
If you have a need for clearance then travel agents are needed but her bike is a road bike for now so the road brake type of clearance is just fine. It's good to have a little barrel adjuster in the noodle too for changing the clearance.
If you have a need for clearance then travel agents are needed but her bike is a road bike for now so the road brake type of clearance is just fine. It's good to have a little barrel adjuster in the noodle too for changing the clearance.
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Yeah, they don't work with MTB mechanical discs either - I tried. Bought a set of 5700 shifters but had the MTB BB7's so figured I'd try. Epic fail. Bought road BB7's and life was good. So although they say they pull more cable certainly not enough to use what we all consider MTB mating parts.
#16
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I would disagree with everyone who has said that this combination doesn't work. As mentioned above, Co-Motion are using the new generation Shimano STI levers with standard MTB V-brakes and no travel agents on some single bikes and lots of their tandems. I've seen one or two other tandem manufacturers also doing the same.
I decided to try the setup on the rear brake of my cyclocross bike. It used to have a previous-generation Ultegra STI (6600) operating an Avid SD7 V-brake with a travel agent. I was able to get a new Ultegra STI (6700) and so installed it without the travel agent. That was 4 or 5 months ago now, and I've been very happy with the lever feel and power ever since. It may help that on the front, I have an Avid BB7 disc brake, and do most of my braking with that, but when I do use the rear brake I've had absolutely zero problems, and am very happy. I'd have no problem recommending the combination to others - it's worked well for me.
I decided to try the setup on the rear brake of my cyclocross bike. It used to have a previous-generation Ultegra STI (6600) operating an Avid SD7 V-brake with a travel agent. I was able to get a new Ultegra STI (6700) and so installed it without the travel agent. That was 4 or 5 months ago now, and I've been very happy with the lever feel and power ever since. It may help that on the front, I have an Avid BB7 disc brake, and do most of my braking with that, but when I do use the rear brake I've had absolutely zero problems, and am very happy. I'd have no problem recommending the combination to others - it's worked well for me.
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These Canti v. V threads are funny. I have owned both and prefer the V, but others may have a different preference. My cross bike (long gone) had cantis and I switched to V's with TA's on my 5600 levers. Perhaps I am inept at Canti adjustment, but V brakes are so much easier to set up and the modulation is much better. Less hardware on the bike, too.
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I have no experience with them, but aren't TRP CX-9s supposed to be specifically designed for cross bike applications w/no travel agent, etc.?
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I'm also thinking of giving canti's the flick and trying some TRP V's.
I've configured the canti's plenty of different ways but still can't get enough power out of them.
Does anyone know which version TRP 9's or 8.4's would be better suited for old Shimano DuraAce 7700, 9 speed levers/shifters?
Thanks
I've configured the canti's plenty of different ways but still can't get enough power out of them.
Does anyone know which version TRP 9's or 8.4's would be better suited for old Shimano DuraAce 7700, 9 speed levers/shifters?
Thanks
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My understanding is the the TRP 9's work best with the new (5700, 6700, 7900) Shimano gruppos and the 8.4's work best with the older groups. I don't know if 7700 has the same cable pull as 5600, 6600, etc. but I would guess that it does, so I think 8.4 is the best choice with that.
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#21
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I have TRP9s on my bike without the travel helpers. My left shifter is 6603 and my right shifter is 5600. It takes a little fiddling to get the brakes adjusted but once you get them dialed they work fine. The brake lever pull isn't perfect but I can still get full brake without bottoming them out. As part of dialing them in you have to play with the cable length to insure you can remove a wheel by backing the noodle adjustor off. For recreational riding I find these to be great brakes. They stop better than any of my road bikes that have DA and Ultegra based groupos.
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My understanding is the the TRP 9's work best with the new (5700, 6700, 7900) Shimano gruppos and the 8.4's work best with the older groups. I don't know if 7700 has the same cable pull as 5600, 6600, etc. but I would guess that it does, so I think 8.4 is the best choice with that.
Ok, so the 8.4's you think for DA7700.
I don't know much about the difference in cable pull for any Shimano groups so I'll take your word for it. Thanks
Anyone else tried this combo?
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I have TRP9s on my bike without the travel helpers. My left shifter is 6603 and my right shifter is 5600. It takes a little fiddling to get the brakes adjusted but once you get them dialed they work fine. The brake lever pull isn't perfect but I can still get full brake without bottoming them out. As part of dialing them in you have to play with the cable length to insure you can remove a wheel by backing the noodle adjustor off. For recreational riding I find these to be great brakes. They stop better than any of my road bikes that have DA and Ultegra based groupos.
(sorry, think I'm hijakin this thread with a slightly different question)
#25
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V.. Shorter arm =less leverage = more pad motion to the rim,
for the available, cable pull..
TRP went to the 9 from the 8.4 to go with the MA change in the Newer Brifters.
for the available, cable pull..
TRP went to the 9 from the 8.4 to go with the MA change in the Newer Brifters.
Last edited by fietsbob; 02-04-16 at 11:44 AM.