lower gearing options for stock Poprad
10-20-04, 11:01 AM
#1
Arizona Dessert
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lower gearing options for stock Poprad
Sometimes I wish for a lower gear on my 2005 stock Poprad and wonder what the various options are from the lowest (and perhaps least benefit or change) to higher cost. What I mean is what are options without changing anything but cogs/chainrings and when do I need to change bottom bracket, front or rear derailers.
Stock is 38/46 chainring, 12-26 cogs. I'd like to keep in a double.
What are my options? I probably won't do this, but interested to know.
Al
Stock is 38/46 chainring, 12-26 cogs. I'd like to keep in a double.
What are my options? I probably won't do this, but interested to know.
Al
10-20-04, 11:21 AM
#2
Tiocfáidh ár Lá
I have a Shimano xt rear derailleur with a 12-32 cassette. I believe it will even go higher like a 34. This is 8 speed so I don't know of anything else but the cost was somewhere around $100. I am guessing that the 105 derailleur on the Poprad will only go up to 27 cog? So I think cheapest solution is to get a mountain cassette and derailleur.
10-20-04, 11:32 AM
#3
Wher'd u Get That Jacket?
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I run a compact drive crankset on my Poprad; with either 34 or 36 rings in the front and a 46 big ring, with a 12-27 that I bought aftermarket in the back. If I were you I'd buy a compact crank that is compatible with your stock bottom bracket, and sell the OEM crank on eBay. It is probably worth around $50. FSA makes a cross crank for like $125. Net cost $75 and that is cheeper then buying a new RD and cassette or at least about the same. Then you've got smaller steps between the gears then with MTB gearing and an upgrade to your crankset, which will make you go faster.
10-20-04, 11:52 AM
#4
Former Hoarder
I run a standard 53/39 with a 12/27 rear and a Ultegra BB. Prior to that, I had a 38/28 front. All it took was the new crank and a chain.
https://www.bikeforums.net/attachment...chmentid=17848
55/Rad
https://www.bikeforums.net/attachment...chmentid=17848
55/Rad
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10-20-04, 12:01 PM
#5
Arizona Dessert
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Looks like a new crank and a 34 small chainring may work. Not a huge differnce (10%) but it would help.
I do like the somewhat closeness of the 38/46 right now, not a big leap.
The 38/46 works great for road (48 would be better) but for some of the steep and long sections of single tracks I ride I wish for a lower gear, I can get up them no problem with mtb gearing, but just not with 38-26. Thats one of the main reasons I've been turning around on singletrack, not the roughness, but the extended steeps (which are just too frequent to make shouldering worth it)
Anyway its not something I want to do right away, just thinking out loud. I much prefer and feel much stronger at high cadence (120) so I need to work on power and the ability to keep power going for longer dirt hills.
Al
I do like the somewhat closeness of the 38/46 right now, not a big leap.
The 38/46 works great for road (48 would be better) but for some of the steep and long sections of single tracks I ride I wish for a lower gear, I can get up them no problem with mtb gearing, but just not with 38-26. Thats one of the main reasons I've been turning around on singletrack, not the roughness, but the extended steeps (which are just too frequent to make shouldering worth it)
Anyway its not something I want to do right away, just thinking out loud. I much prefer and feel much stronger at high cadence (120) so I need to work on power and the ability to keep power going for longer dirt hills.
Al
10-21-04, 07:43 AM
#6
Wher'd u Get That Jacket?
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Originally Posted by noisebeam
Anyway its not something I want to do right away, just thinking out loud. I much prefer and feel much stronger at high cadence (120) so I need to work on power and the ability to keep power going for longer dirt hills.
Al
Al
