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  1. #51
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    anyone got any pics?

  2. #52
    Ridin' South Cackalacky dahut's Avatar
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    Wish I had some extra money - Im wanting a heavy duty road/touring bike.
    "Watch out for giants; they are boorish fools with tongues wagging, drunk upon their own words.
    They will try to teach you a lesson if given the chance, and you will stumble over their stinking feet."

  3. #53
    Senior Member foofighter29er's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Exit3 View Post
    anyone got any pics?
    https://picasaweb.google.com/duan.da...eat=directlink

    I'm going on a ride with it today will snap some more
    2010 Pinarello Dogma
    2011 Nashbar Steel Cross Bike
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  4. #54
    Have bike, will travel Barrettscv's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by foofighter29er View Post
    https://picasaweb.google.com/duan.da...eat=directlink

    I'm going on a ride with it today will snap some more
    It looks Really, Really Good!

  5. #55
    Senior Member foofighter29er's Avatar
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    Just came back from doing a 33 mile mainly road ride, wow it's amazing how you take for granted your low rolling resistance slick tires and going to cross type tires. The climbs were painfully slow vs my road bike and I really need to upgrade brake pads. The stock ones do not it, my carbon wheels brake better lol. All in all I tea Loy find the bike comfortable to ride, still need to tweak here and there.
    2010 Pinarello Dogma
    2011 Nashbar Steel Cross Bike
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  6. #56
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    Rode 67 miles today, mainly paved but about a mile was gravel...smoooooth sailing and I think the fit may be a slight improvement over my Fuji. I will say she is a heavy beast, but I could stand to lose about 5-10 lbs myself so I ain't gonna complain. I probably lost 3 or 4 on this ride, though, ha! The saddle isn't bad (it's actually the same Velo that's on my Fuji CC) but I'll be upgrading it this week. Longer rides like this deserve pressure taken off the parts!

    Foo, after about 800 miles, the stock Kendas will wear to a relatively smooth tread in the center and hills will be easier!

  7. #57
    Senior Member foofighter29er's Avatar
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    gipsy, good to know! LOL i swapped out the tires today with some schwalbe 700x25 to do a quick ride and wow what a difference. I do like the ride of this bike, it's not snappy like my carbon road bike but it's really comfy, what they really isnt hype, steel does a good job of soaking things up. I think ill run the cx tires on days i know i'll be doing mixed road rides otherwise it'll mainly be smooth asphalt
    2010 Pinarello Dogma
    2011 Nashbar Steel Cross Bike
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  8. #58
    Senior Member foofighter29er's Avatar
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    brought the bike with me to work to do my lunchtime loop and it started off wet and raining, my overall time was a little slower than on my carbon road bike but really respectable. I'm really enjoying this bike more and more as i get familiar with it. and the best part, i dont feel guilty for getting it dirty
    2010 Pinarello Dogma
    2011 Nashbar Steel Cross Bike
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  9. #59
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    I'm thinking of picking this up as my first Cyclocross bike, but would appreciate a little guidance from those of you with the bike as far as the fit. Based on the ETT I'm in between sizes when compared to my road bike. My road bike's ETT is 585mm and the 58cm comes in at 575mm and the 60cm at 590mm. Based on your experience would you go up in ETT or down with this particular bike?

    In either size the bottom bracket will be 2mm higher than my road bike - It's difficult to envision how that would affect standover when compared to my road bike as my road bike has a sloping top tube. Any help would be appreciated.

  10. #60
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    The 58cm bike has a standover of 82cm. I just ordered a 60cm bike myself. My height is 6'2" PBH 34.75" I expect the 60cm to fit well. Will let the thread know when I have it assembled and have taken it out for riding.

    Quote Originally Posted by ean10775 View Post
    I'm thinking of picking this up as my first Cyclocross bike, but would appreciate a little guidance from those of you with the bike as far as the fit. Based on the ETT I'm in between sizes when compared to my road bike. My road bike's ETT is 585mm and the 58cm comes in at 575mm and the 60cm at 590mm. Based on your experience would you go up in ETT or down with this particular bike?

    In either size the bottom bracket will be 2mm higher than my road bike - It's difficult to envision how that would affect standover when compared to my road bike as my road bike has a sloping top tube. Any help would be appreciated.

  11. #61
    Team Water Andy_K's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by ean10775 View Post
    I'm thinking of picking this up as my first Cyclocross bike, but would appreciate a little guidance from those of you with the bike as far as the fit. Based on the ETT I'm in between sizes when compared to my road bike. My road bike's ETT is 585mm and the 58cm comes in at 575mm and the 60cm at 590mm. Based on your experience would you go up in ETT or down with this particular bike?
    Compare the seat tube angles. If you road bike has a steeper seat tube angle (which it probably does), then you'd need to have the saddle further forward on the CX bike to get the same pedaling position, effectively shortening the top tube of the CX bike. I think I read 10mm per degree of seat tube angle difference as a rule of thumb. So that would point to the larger size. On the other hand, the preferred riding position for CX tends to be different than for road -- more upright, less stretched out -- so that would point to the smaller size. In general, it's easier to make a slightly small bike fit bigger than it is the make a slightly large bike fit smaller. So, I'd probably go with the smaller size.

  12. #62
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    Quote Originally Posted by gdiebel View Post
    The 58cm bike has a standover of 82cm. I just ordered a 60cm bike myself. My height is 6'2" PBH 34.75" I expect the 60cm to fit well. Will let the thread know when I have it assembled and have taken it out for riding.
    Thanks. I did see that someone had mentioned the standover on the 58cm is 82cm so I had assumed the 60cm would be 84cm. I'm a little taller than you (6'3" and PBH of 35.24") but I do ride my road bike a little long and low which is why I'm hesitant to just go with the longer ETT on the 60cm. Of course I realize this can easily be adjusted with a shorter stem and will be partially mitigated by the fact that my road bike has a slightly steeper STA, but I suppose I've been influenced by all the talk of buying a cyclocross bike slightly smaller than your road bike.

  13. #63
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    Quote Originally Posted by Andy_K View Post
    Compare the seat tube angles. If you road bike has a steeper seat tube angle (which it probably does), then you'd need to have the saddle further forward on the CX bike to get the same pedaling position, effectively shortening the top tube of the CX bike. I think I read 10mm per degree of seat tube angle difference as a rule of thumb. So that would point to the larger size. On the other hand, the preferred riding position for CX tends to be different than for road -- more upright, less stretched out -- so that would point to the smaller size. In general, it's easier to make a slightly small bike fit bigger than it is the make a slightly large bike fit smaller. So, I'd probably go with the smaller size.
    Agreed. The formula for figuring that out is the cosine of the STA multiplied by saddle height if I remember correctly. The STA difference between the bikes is only .5 degree which effectively equalizes the TT. Coupled with the fact that the 60cm appears to ship with a 10mm shorter stem than I run on my road bike means reach should be ok with the larger frame. I guess I'm just used to hearing that a CX bike should fit smaller and I definitely don't want something that fits larger than my road bike.

  14. #64
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    If possible I'd love a reply from Gypsy King. (I attempted to post this as a private message, but apparently I haven't made enough posts and rather than just throw up a dozen posts for no reason I figured I'd post in this thread since it pertains to this bike)

    Gypsy King, I was hoping you might help me in making a decision in purchasing one of either the Fuji Cross Comp or Nashbar Steel CX, since from this thread it appears you have both. The two bikes seem equally spec'd (5700 105, FSA Gossamer Cranks, Oryx brakes, low-end wheelset, 30mm tires) and are available for nearly the same price give or take a few dollars (about $775 shipped). I'd be looking at either bike primarily for cross racing and maybe some light touring (I already have two road bikes). What I'm most interested in, besides you general opinion as to which you prefer, is:

    1. which has better clearance for larger tires? (I'd like to run 35s with room to spare for mud clearance)

    2. which to you feel handles better? (since the frames have similar but different geometries)

    3. how does each one fit in comparison with the other? (the Nashbar seems to have a much taller headtube for a given frame size - does it fit larger? more upright?)

    Thank you in advance for your reply


    (If this post is inappropriate here, moderators please feel free to delete it.)

  15. #65
    Senior Member foofighter29er's Avatar
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    I have kind of a funky question regarding this frame. I'm using it a LOT on the road and let's face it the canti brakes are severely lacking in the stopping department. I like the geo on this and would like to just see if i can convert this over to traditional road brakes in lieu of the canti?

    I was curious, if i replaced the front fork with more of a road fork; that way i can install road type brakes on the bike. Question is can i still install the rear brakes where the hole is drilled out for the fender? Just curious

    2010 Pinarello Dogma
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  16. #66
    Senior Member himespau's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by foofighter29er View Post
    I have kind of a funky question regarding this frame. I'm using it a LOT on the road and let's face it the canti brakes are severely lacking in the stopping department. I like the geo on this and would like to just see if i can convert this over to traditional road brakes in lieu of the canti?

    I was curious, if i replaced the front fork with more of a road fork; that way i can install road type brakes on the bike. Question is can i still install the rear brakes where the hole is drilled out for the fender? Just curious
    Might be easier (or not) just to swap in a V-brake and a travel agent. Some people will say that'll give you better stopping power while using your current bosses. I don't have a problem with the stopping power in my canti brakes, but they can be a pain to adjust just so and I may not be going anywhere near as fast as you. Swapping out for better pads might help too.
    Punctuation is important. It's the difference between "I helped my uncle, Jack, off a horse" and "I helped my uncle Jack off a horse"


  17. #67
    Senior Member foofighter29er's Avatar
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    I may try the cheaper route and go with we pads...or shorty ultimates

    Found, long reach road calipers that might just do the job
    Last edited by foofighter29er; 10-23-11 at 08:03 PM.
    2010 Pinarello Dogma
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  18. #68
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    Sorry this took a while to respond, ean.

    1. Tire clearance is exactly the same or within fractions of a mm according to my tape measure. I've got the stock 32s on each, and that leaves about 7/8 of an inch clearance.

    2. The Fuji might handle slightly better imho if you're going to race it; that may also be because I've put about 10x more miles on it and I'm more used to its handling characteristics...and its lighter weight. I don't race, so this isn't a huge deal for me. I think you adapt to the bike you ride the most, so it's kind of a tossup here. But if you ARE going to race, I've read that going a size lower is always your best move. And less weight certainly doesn't hurt.

    3. I got them both in 58. I have a 32.5" inseam, 34" waist, 42" chest, and am 6'1", 180. Feels like I'm a little more upright on the NB and I don't get the bit of post-ride neck pain (alleviated with stretching) that I get on my Fooj. This could likely be fixed with a couple of spacers on the Fooj, though. But yeah, I'd say the Nashbar fits a little larger. The topbar is closer to my crotch in standover on the NB. The headset is a little larger, too. Which is nice because it's more room to move my hands around making for less fatigue at the end of a long ride.

    With the sale, I got my Nashbar for $653 shipped IIRC. And I see it's on sale right NOW for about the same price, cool. Either ride is a great buy and will serve you well if you ask me. After about 150 miles on it, my preference goes to the Nashbar. My rides are ~ 98% paved surface (in various states of disrepair), and I found the steel does even out the nasty stuff. The weight doesn't bother me much as whatever heaviness I complain about, I can stand to lose myself. I will probably sell my Fooj. Good luck whatever you decide. And enjoy!

    I will add that I bought the Nashbar TFX seat (about $30, cheaper on sale) and it's a keeper for me. No more pressure on the guys or the all-important blood vessels down there. And bad bumps don't reverb with that delayed "Ohhh...my nuts!" pain anymore.

    Quote Originally Posted by ean10775 View Post
    If possible I'd love a reply from Gypsy King. (I attempted to post this as a private message, but apparently I haven't made enough posts and rather than just throw up a dozen posts for no reason I figured I'd post in this thread since it pertains to this bike)

    Gypsy King, I was hoping you might help me in making a decision in purchasing one of either the Fuji Cross Comp or Nashbar Steel CX, since from this thread it appears you have both. The two bikes seem equally spec'd (5700 105, FSA Gossamer Cranks, Oryx brakes, low-end wheelset, 30mm tires) and are available for nearly the same price give or take a few dollars (about $775 shipped). I'd be looking at either bike primarily for cross racing and maybe some light touring (I already have two road bikes). What I'm most interested in, besides you general opinion as to which you prefer, is:

    1. which has better clearance for larger tires? (I'd like to run 35s with room to spare for mud clearance)

    2. which to you feel handles better? (since the frames have similar but different geometries)

    3. how does each one fit in comparison with the other? (the Nashbar seems to have a much taller headtube for a given frame size - does it fit larger? more upright?)

    Thank you in advance for your reply


    (If this post is inappropriate here, moderators please feel free to delete it.)

  19. #69
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    Quote Originally Posted by GipsyKing View Post
    Sorry this took a while to respond, ean.
    No worries. I appreciate the reply.

  20. #70
    Old. Slow. Happy. MileHighMark's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by foofighter29er View Post
    I may try the cheaper route and go with we pads...or shorty ultimates

    Found, long reach road calipers that might just do the job
    Keep the stock fork and get some mini v-brakes and good pads.
    GRAVELBIKE.COM - ride everything

  21. #71
    cs1
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    Quote Originally Posted by foofighter29er View Post
    Just came back from doing a 33 mile mainly road ride, wow it's amazing how you take for granted your low rolling resistance slick tires and going to cross type tires. The climbs were painfully slow vs my road bike and I really need to upgrade brake pads. The stock ones do not it, my carbon wheels brake better lol. All in all I tea Loy find the bike comfortable to ride, still need to tweak here and there.
    I always thought that good wheels and tires make a bigger difference than the group. I'll bet if you swap out the wheels on your Pinarello the Nashbar would roll surprisingly well.
    1999 Waterford RSE-11, 1995 Waterford 1200, 1989 Specialized Rockhopper Comp
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  22. #72
    Bicycle Repair Man !!! Sixty Fiver's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by MileHighMark View Post
    Keep the stock fork and get some mini v-brakes and good pads.
    Or... find someone who knows how to set up cantis properly.

  23. #73
    Old. Slow. Happy. MileHighMark's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Sixty Fiver View Post
    Or... find someone who knows how to set up cantis properly.
    Well, yeah, there's that, too.
    GRAVELBIKE.COM - ride everything

  24. #74
    cs1
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    Quote Originally Posted by foofighter29er View Post
    I have kind of a funky question regarding this frame. I'm using it a LOT on the road and let's face it the canti brakes are severely lacking in the stopping department. I like the geo on this and would like to just see if i can convert this over to traditional road brakes in lieu of the canti?
    I'm with himespau and V-brakes. Not to be condescending but set up on cantilevers is critical. IMO proper set up and good brake pads will transform your bike. Good luck
    1999 Waterford RSE-11, 1995 Waterford 1200, 1989 Specialized Rockhopper Comp
    1989 Raleigh Technium, 1989 Schwinn Traveler, 1986 Specialized Rockhopper
    1984 Specialized Stumpjumper, 1986 Specialized Stumpjumper and just way too many projects to list.

  25. #75
    Bicycle Hoarder Holden McNeil's Avatar
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    What a fantastic deal! Would make a great all around backroad/crap weather/errand bike. Almost too nice!

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