Help with Front Derailleur Pulley.
My frame has a braze-on for a front derailleur pulley.
A water bottle screw is the right size for this braze-on.
Problem Solvers sells a pulley for exactly this purpose.
Has anyone actually bought one AND is the screw that comes with it a water bottle sized screw?
I don't want to buy the whole clamp/pulley assembly which Problem Solvers also sells if I can help it. Besides, 31.8 versions seem to be sold out.
I would rather use the Dura Ace der. that I already have than a clunky MTB der. I see that Shimano now makes a top pull der. for cyclocross.
Mud, Gore & Guts
I'm not sure if the bolt that is supplied is a 5mm or not, but it's worth it to contact them if yoon u have questions. I'd suspect that the bolt is similar since they do sell "braze-on" version.
If you're looking to upgrade, a top pull derailleur made for CX would be advantageous since you would have one less piece or hardware (the pulley) to get fouled. If you can't find info on the pulley, purchasing both the braze-on and clamp-would be an advantage that also gives you a choice even if you have a problem with your braze-on mount.
Thanks for the reply. I found out that the screw provided with the pulley is the same as a water bottle screw.
Originally Posted by eddubal
One of those new Shimano CX derailleurs would be sweet but I've already got a sweet Dura Ace der.
Someone mentioned a Speen Umlenker which is a doodad that converts a bottom pull der. to a top pull.
It costs 16.5 euros including shipping, about $22. It ships from Europe.
I'm gonna' go with the pulley because I rarely shift the front anyway. The der. is there more to keep the chain on.
Someone else said a pulley for a sliding door works if you use a longer screw. I'm gonna' try it.
Mud, Gore & Guts
I was almost afraind to Google Speen Umlenker It's an interesting solution to a gummy pulley. People should check out the Tech Sheet.
Originally Posted by GeoKrpan
Don't think that the FD will hold your chain on. A least fab up a chainkeeper from a reflector bracket clamp. I learned this the hard way. It dropped me back at least 10 positions once.
Good luck and let us know how the sliding door pulley trick works.
If it turns out to be true I'll try something else.
Originally Posted by eddubal
I don't have that problem with my rigid 29er.
I only ride the big ring so there is more chain tension and more teeth involved.
I will let you know about the sliding door pulley trick.
Well, I stopped by the hardware store and got a pully, longer stainless screw, and 2 stainless washers.
There were steel pulleys and nylon pulleys. The steel ones looked great but, of course, were much heavier, I got a nylon one.
I figured if the bushing gets mucked up that the cable will still slide on the nylon.
The pully has a bushing that it rotates around so tightening the screw does not affect things.
The hole in the pulley is larger than the screw but when I tightened it, it seems to be snug.
I used a washer on the outside but decided not to use one on the inside.
The pulley was $3.60, screw $1.10, and the washer $0.37. The Problem Solvers pulley costs $10.
The pulley is wider than the Problem Solvers and that might be a problem with the cable coming off.
I won't be done with the build for another couple of weeks so I can't tell you if it works at this point but my gut says that it will work perfectly.
I'm building a Gravity Zilla monstercross. So far, it's lookin' good.
Yea, any grooved pulley should re direct the cable coming from the top
to pull a bottom pull FD
some made for Cross, have a cover to keep big muck spray off the thing.
The sliding door pulley works.
The Gravity Zilla is done and I took it on it's maiden voyage yesterday.
I decided to use an Ultegra Triple FD rather than the Dura Ace. The inside of the cage is wider like a MTB der.
and I think that could be the reason the chain does not come off my rigid MTB.
The Dura Ace STI levers are not for triple cranks yet it shifts the Ultegra triple FD perfectly.
I'm using an compact MTB crank with 48 and 38 "trekking" chainrings and no inner chainring.
I fabricated a CX turning pulley out of a used Shimano sealed rear derailleur pulley. I used a hand drill, flat file, bench vise and hacksaw blade (cut the cable groove). It has been coated with mud and dried clay Iíve had to chisel off. I have had it on for three years with zero maintenance and it still shifts like butter. Cost zero, about 20 minutes to fab.CXPulley.jpg