Aonex

Hi folks, was about to start ordering parts for a SS cross build I was planning, but figured I should let the experts take a look before I proceed. I'm going for a budget build, so if anyone has any suggestions on more affordable parts, please let me know. Here is the build:

Frame/Fork - Surly Cross Check 54cm - $400
Wheelset - Sun CR18 130mm Spacing - $125
Tires - Continental Cyclocross 700x35 - $45
Crank - Dimension Cross 170mm - $35
Chainring - Sinz 44T - $20
Bottom Bracket - Tange 68x113 - $20
Chain - SRAM 3/32 - Own
Freewheel - ACS Crossfire 18T - $20
Headset - Cane Creek 10 - $30
Stem - Dimension 26.0 80mm - $20
Handlebars - Dimension Road 26.0 40cm Double Groove - $20
Tape - Origin 8 Black - Own
Brakes - Tektro Oryx Cantilever - Own
Brake Levers - Tektro RL340 - $20
Brake Cables - Jagwire Hyper Brake Kit - $20
Seatpost - Dimension 27.2 350mm - $20
Saddle - Avenir 200 - Own

I think that's everything. Thanks in advance for taking a look.

thenomad

pretty narrow bars for a 54? Narrow shoulders? May want to go wider for downhill handling.
I use a 54 frame with 46cm bars and like the feel. I have broad shoulders but whatever

Andy_K 

You might want to consider going used for a few parts, particularly the crankset. You can usually find something like Shimano 600 (predecessor of Ultegra) on eBay for around the cost of that Dimension. If you're lucky the 42T ring will be in good shape and you just need short bolts. Worst case, you need a new ring, but he crank itself is still very high quality.

If you've got a coop in your area you can probably get some really cheap handlebars. I've got a pair or two I'd give you just for the asking if you were in my area. Ask around, you might just find that this is common among cyclists.

I wasn't clear what kind of hubs you're getting. I've got my Cross Check setup with an old geared wheel set using a single cog and spacers. It makes the chain line issue very easy to solve.

Aonex

Hi, thanks for the suggestions so far... I believe my shoulders are 44 cm, so should I get bars with the same width? I'm now scouring ebay for deals on cranksets. Should I look at mtb cranksets as well, and just take off the rings I don't need?

Aonex

Could I use an mtb triple crankset, such as this FSA Dynadrive, then just take off the smaller rings?

https://www.treefortbikes.com/home#na...222347655___93

Andy_K 

You can use MTB cranks if they take a square taper bottom bracket, but check the spindle length to make sure you can take care of chain line issues. I've got a Deore LX crank, for instance that was designed for a 110 mm bottom bracket. That puts the outer ring at around a 46.5 mm chainline even with a 103 mm bottom bracket. Sheldon Brown's site has a handy bottom bracket size database for many older cranks.

Check reviews on anything new. Some low end MTB cranks have very flex rings and some don't have remove able rings.

Aonex

Thanks, will look for removable chainrings. For a little more than my price range, I'm seeing cranksets with integrated bb's, such as this one: https://www.jensonusa.com/Cranksets/S...-M582-Crankset. I'm not familiar with these. Do you need a special tool to install? Is the spindle width adjustable? I read that once you set the chainline, you can no longer adjust.

bluenote157

Didn't see it on your list, but you might need brake cable hangers unless your oryx already comes with them?? What pedals are you using? Third eye/bash guard?

Get some kool stop salmon mtn pads, you'll be pleased with their stopping power. Or you can get the salmon cartridges for v-type...i think they fit the oryx pad holders.

If you are looking at doing this cheaper.. you can buy brake cable for $3 each at REI. I'm sure you can find someone on craigslist that has some extra housing laying around.
Also on craigs, you might be able to find a seat post for $10.

GeoKrpan

Good choice on the Cross Check. You can gear it at some other point in time.

I recently built a monstercross and used a SRAM trekking crank with 48/38/28 steel chainrings. It has the same bolt circle diameter, bcd, as an MTB crank.
I already had a crank but new chainrings would have cost more than a whole new crank.
The crank was $42 and the Powerspline BB it uses was $12. BTW, the Powerspline BB uses the same crank puller as for square taper BBs, not the ISIS style crank puller.

geeter

Just finished my Cross Check build today. Built it as a single speed. Bought my frame and fork used with donor parts (all high quality Chris King, Campy, Velocity), and finished it up today with new brakes, levers, and a few other parts. Did the entire build for under $700. Pretty happy with it so far.

As for cables I bought a jagwire set for about 18 bucks and it did the trick.

RubeRad

Hey anybody that did a Surly CC build, I know this post is old, but I'm just about to embark on a frame-up build of my own. The Surly website lists for their complete bike a 107mm BB (Shimano UN54); I have on hand a 111 and a 113, and I see OP spec'd a 113, how did that work out?

FYI I have two options for crankset at this point, I'd prefer to go with a Shimano 600 double (52/39), but I also have a Bontrager triple (approx 52/42/32?) I can use if the 600 doesn't work out. I realize double vs triple drives all sorts of other drivetrain issues, but I just wanna get this thing on the road first, and I"ll figure out shifting later.

bluenote157

Your 107 with your double should work fine. Generally a long cage rear derailleur will work with a double with no problems. It is when you go the other way (short derailleur and triple) where you might start getting problems cuz the derailleur can't make up the slack.