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  1. #1
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    Cantilever clearance issue

    I recently purchased a '90s Torelli cyclocross bike. It had Deore LX V-brakes on it when I got it, but I want to switch it over to cantilever. I bought some Forte cantilever brakes that seem to work fine in the rear, but have some clearance issues in the front. They do work with some very worn v-break pads (silver in the pic) that I had laying around, but I'm not sure that they would even work if the pads were new.

    Any suggestions would be awesome. Is there a different cantilever brake that might work? Different pads?
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  2. #2
    Have bike, will travel Barrettscv's Avatar
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    When I ride my bike I feel free and happy and strong. I'm liberated from the usual nonsense of day to day life. Solid, dependable, silent, my bike is my horse, my fighter jet, my island, my friend. Together we will conquer that hill and thereafter the world.

  3. #3
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    The thinlines may work. How wide are your rims?

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    The rims are Mavic Open Pro 15-622. Would there by any benefit it getting the thinlines vs just getting new inserts for my v-brake pads and trying those?

  5. #5
    Have bike, will travel Barrettscv's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by espinoza700 View Post
    The rims are Mavic Open Pro 15-622. Would there by any benefit it getting the thinlines vs just getting new inserts for my v-brake pads and trying those?
    It's strange that your having problems with the Open Pro, it's a 19mm wide rim.

    I'm able to use any pad on my Tektro CR720, even with a 24mm wide Velocity Dyad rim.
    When I ride my bike I feel free and happy and strong. I'm liberated from the usual nonsense of day to day life. Solid, dependable, silent, my bike is my horse, my fighter jet, my island, my friend. Together we will conquer that hill and thereafter the world.

  6. #6
    Team Beer Cynikal's Avatar
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    I've had this issue on several bikes. Your canti posts need to be over 7cm apart for modern brakes to work. I'm betting that yours are too narrow. This was common with bikes of that era. You may have to go back to the older MTB brakes.
    I'm not one for fawning over bicycles, but I do believe that our bikes communicate with us, and what this bike is saying is, "You're an idiot." BikeSnobNYC

  7. #7
    coprolite fietsbob's Avatar
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    Shorter brake shoes will not put the long tail of the pad,
    between the fork blade and the rim.
    maybe these? :
    http://www.cyclocrossworld.com/jagwi...ite-brake-pads


    And Older Mafac Cantilevers adapt better than the latest designs.

    My Modolo Cross Cantilevers on my Pinarello CX gave way
    to Spooky brand, recently , (a close out, Belgian company folded)

    all 3 fit OK.. the concave inner face let the brake shoe rotate downward,
    which must happen when the post spacing is closer together..

    these may work for you..

    http://www.cyclocrossworld.com/4za-c...locross-brakes

    better pad holders for plain post style, Toe-in adjustable..
    http://www.cyclocrossworld.com/trp-i...ble-brake-pads.

    Kool stop triple compound inserts will fit the holders..
    shaped like DA road pads..
    Last edited by fietsbob; 08-21-12 at 10:16 AM.

  8. #8
    Team Water Andy_K's Avatar
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    If switching to thin pads isn't enough, another option to fix this problem is the Shimano CX50 cantilever.


    It comes with three different size spacers for mounting the brake pads and a chart to help you figure out which one to use based on your rim width and stud separation. Notice that the pads actually attach to the brake arms behind the cantilever stud, so using the smallest spacer you can get the pad right up against the fork if you need to. For twice the price, the CX70 offers the same functionality and a nicer appearance, plus cartridge pads.

  9. #9
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    Thanks for all the help. I ended up finding a good deal on some CX70s ($70 for all four). They seem to work great.

  10. #10
    Team Water Andy_K's Avatar
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    That's a great deal.

    I'm running CX70's in my cross bike. At first, I thought they were just OK and they squealed like mad. This season I was determined to get better (and quieter) braking, so I ditched the interrupter levers, switched to Kool Stop salmon pads and installed Jagwire Ripcord housing. I don't know which change made the biggest difference, but with this combination the braking power is outstanding. Even with these changes it took a lot of fine tuning of the toe-in to get rid of the squeal, but that's gone too now.

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