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  1. #1
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    Looking for Cyclocross under $2000.00

    I have never posted in this section for the bike forums so forgive me if this has been asked before.

    I am ready to move up from my Trek Navigator, have lost quite a bit of weight and want to do a lot more road riding with some bike batch and dirt roads once in a while.
    I am still a little over 300# so want a beefy bike, and I figure the cyclocross is a good choice.

    I was ready to order a Trek CrossRip Elite but some great members here suggested I try and find something with better components.

    I am not sure how important disk brakes are for a guy not racing and if not that important the Specialized Crux Elite may be a great bike. If disk brakes are important than the Specialized Crux Elite Disk Apex may be the way to go. I know the Kona Rove is an option, but the nearest dealer is a couple hours away.

    Looking for some advice before I start making some trips to LBS, living in rural Pa makes re search a real necessity, not like you can drive around town to several LBS, its a major trip unless its Trek or Specialized.
    2013 Trek Ion CX Pro & 2013 Specialized Carve Comp
    2010 Trek Navigator 3.0

  2. #2
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    I like Fuji for a bang for the buck bike...maybe the cross 2.0 for <$1000 or cross 1.0 for < $2000 (2012 models). You might also want to consider Bikes Direct, I was very tempted but I have about 10 LBS within 15 miles. http://www.bikesdirect.com/

  3. #3
    coprolite fietsbob's Avatar
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    Felt?, Redline?.. not racing? an LHT disc should work. too..

    yea BD is a supporting advertiser on this site.. already a decent mechanic?
    those require it.

    how many shops have you visited?


    Trek put the money into the frame & fork, &to make the Price attractive they chose
    lesser cost component.. want More expensive components fitted , that can be done.

    just going to cost extra..
    Last edited by fietsbob; 04-10-13 at 02:34 PM.

  4. #4
    Big Ol' Varmint nice_marmot's Avatar
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    I have been riding a Redline Conquest Pro as my main commuter after minor disaster befell my hybrid. It's so zippy and fun to ride around my hilly city that I haven't really bothered to get my usual grocery/rain bike running again (but I'm working on it!). Most of the Conquest line runs under $2k new.

    There are a few things to keep in mind about what makes a CX bike. For one, you're going to be bent forward (although not as much as you would on a road bike), which takes some getting used to. Rider positions vary a lot on cyclocross bikes based on headsets and geometry, so you might find some let you get up enough to feel comfortable riding the hoods. Also, the bike is going to feel VERY twitchy compared to your hybrid; they're designed to make quick maneuvering and acceleration as easy as possible.

    fietsbob's suggestion of a Surly Long Haul Trucker is a great one. I've tested them and felt really comfy riding; they're touring bikes, which provide a different riding experience than a cyclocross machine. If there's a place near you that sells Surly bikes, you might try comparing the feel of the LHT versus the Cross-Check.

    EDIT: Kona just came out this year with a cyclocross-informed commuter called the Rove. It looks like a great all-arounder, it doesn't have some of the more expensive racing trappings, and it comes in around $1700 new. http://www.konaworld.com/bike.cfm?content=rove#1
    Last edited by nice_marmot; 04-07-13 at 12:38 PM.
    "Every time I see an adult on a bicycle, I no longer despair for the future of the human race." - H.G. Wells

    2007 Redline Conquest Pro (Space Monkey)
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  5. #5
    Senior Member eddiepliers's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by nice_marmot View Post
    I have been riding a Redline Conquest Pro as my main commuter after minor disaster befell my hybrid. It's so zippy and fun to ride around my hilly city that I haven't really bothered to get my usual grocery/rain bike running again (but I'm working on it!). Most of the Conquest line runs under $2k new.

    There are a few things to keep in mind about what makes a CX bike. For one, you're going to be bent forward (although not as much as you would on a road bike), which takes some getting used to. Rider positions vary a lot on cyclocross bikes based on headsets and geometry, so you might find some let you get up enough to feel comfortable riding the hoods. Also, the bike is going to feel VERY twitchy compared to your hybrid; they're designed to make quick maneuvering and acceleration as easy as possible.

    fietsbob's suggestion of a Surly Long Haul Trucker is a great one. I've tested them and felt really comfy riding; they're touring bikes, which provide a different riding experience than a cyclocross machine. If there's a place near you that sells Surly bikes, you might try comparing the feel of the LHT versus the Cross-Check.

    EDIT: Kona just came out this year with a cyclocross-informed commuter called the Rove. It looks like a great all-arounder, it doesn't have some of the more expensive racing trappings, and it comes in around $1700 new. http://www.konaworld.com/bike.cfm?content=rove#1
    Dkyser, where in PA do you live? I know a shop in Pitt that I always go to (It's an 1.5-2 hours away form me) and I love going there. They have the Redline Conquest with Apex for about $1800. I decided to build my own Conquest Pro up with leftover Campy components I had lying around. I could go for a newer bike and that Rove looks pretty enticing.

  6. #6
    Senior Member IcySmooth52's Avatar
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    I don't think disc brakes are at all necessary for racing or just riding. They are nice, but you can have the stopping power needed if you have the canti brakes set up right with good pads.

    I'd say check out the Fuji Cross 1.1 and Felt F65X for disc brakes with your price-range. Both are great aluminum frames, worthy of upgrading components. Kona Jake the Snake would get my rim-brake purchase in a moment (if I didn't work at a shop). Un-beatable components for other bikes at it's price.
    '12 Fuji Altamira 2.0 "Raven" - '13 Marin Palisades Trail SE 29er "Matilda" - '11 Trek T1 "Voskhod"

  7. #7
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    Very happy with my Kona Jake the Snake, well below the $2K mark. Unless disc brakes are a must have, the JTS will deliver.

  8. #8
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    Quote Originally Posted by eddiepliers View Post
    Dkyser, where in PA do you live? I know a shop in Pitt that I always go to (It's an 1.5-2 hours away form me) and I love going there. They have the Redline Conquest with Apex for about $1800. I decided to build my own Conquest Pro up with leftover Campy components I had lying around. I could go for a newer bike and that Rove looks pretty enticing.
    I am about 3 hours North of Pitt, near Jamestown, Ny. I am looking at the Rove but like mentioned before, do not have to have disk.
    2013 Trek Ion CX Pro & 2013 Specialized Carve Comp
    2010 Trek Navigator 3.0

  9. #9
    Dirt junkie. SnowJob's Avatar
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    You are a big guy, so you need a tough, bad ass bike. I recommend the all city Macho Man. Steel cyclocross awesomeness. They even have a disc version now, if that floats yer boat.
    Traitor Ruben :: Redline Monocog :: Surly Pugsley

  10. #10
    Senior Member GeneO's Avatar
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    I have the 2012 Felt F55X and am pretty happy with it for fun and commuting partly on trails. It has good components: Ultegra shifters and derailleurs and Tiagra chain and cassette. It has canti brakes. It's MSRP is $2K, but you can get it for less than that. The F65X is the same frame I believe but with lesser components but disk brakes. The manual says the weight limit is 300 lbs rider + 30 lbs cargo - partly due to the tapered top tube which anchors a larger down tube.

    I would check the weight limits of any bike you are considering. For instance the specialized Crux has a maximum structural frame limit of 275 lbs.

    http://service.specialized.com/colla...l-Appendix.pdf
    Last edited by GeneO; 04-07-13 at 10:41 PM.
    2012 Felt F55X

  11. #11
    Senior Member eddiepliers's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by dkyser View Post
    I am about 3 hours North of Pitt, near Jamestown, Ny. I am looking at the Rove but like mentioned before, do not have to have disk.
    There are a couple decent shops in Erie, PA. I also know of a Ridley dealer in western NY. Ridley is know for making good CX bikes, but I don't know their prices. What about getting a bike from Competitive Cyclist? Take a look at this..
    http://www.competitivecyclist.com/fr...012-15126.html

  12. #12
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    Ridley wins!!!

  13. #13
    The Left Coast, USA FrenchFit's Avatar
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    I guess the Crux has knocked the TriCross into the Specialized "freeride" category, the Crux being the serious cross racer now. I own a TriCross, great bike that I built up from the frame, Ultegra, DA and some 105. I used to have Fuji CrossComp and like the TriCross frame much better.

    So, for my dollars I'd look at the new TriCross, and upgrade where I felt necessary. The TriCross now comes in both a steel and AL frame, 4 of the 6 models with discs. pretty tempting. I have two wheelsets for mine, one 36h with 28 Gatorskins for loaded touring, one 24/20h with 25 GP4000s - it's a do everything package.

    Frankly, if you not cx racing, why would you want a serious racer?
    Last edited by FrenchFit; 04-08-13 at 08:35 AM.

  14. #14
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    Quote Originally Posted by FrenchFit View Post
    Frankly, if you not cx racing, why would you want a serious racer?
    I just felt that if the bike was built for racing it would be built tough.
    I know I am still a heavy rider but also know I will not be doing any jumps, or doing much more than road riding.

    I do have some old railroad grades, and some dirt roads around that I may venture onto as my conditioning improves.
    2013 Trek Ion CX Pro & 2013 Specialized Carve Comp
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  15. #15
    Watching and waiting. jethro56's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by FrenchFit View Post

    Frankly, if you not cx racing, why would you want a serious racer?
    I think what he's talking about is the seat to handlebar drop. The more drop the more racing orientated the bike is. The Surly Long Haul Trucker I think is kinda going overboard if I understand what you want. The issue with it is the extra long chain stay. That's great if you have big panniers and are carrying a lot of weight back there. The trouble is that with a long chain stay that moves the weight of the rider farther forward. That weight moves to the front tire and makes steering feel heavy and sluggish.

    Cyclocross bikes tend to have chainstay lengths between a roadbike and a touring bike. You have a little more weight on the front to help steering in looser surfaces. Another difference is the bottom bracket height. Cyclocross bikes tend to have higher bottom brackets to clear obstacles. So when you raise that part, the seat has to go up and that adds to the seat to handlebar drop.

    Touring bikes go the other way. The bottom bracket is lower for stability when carrying heavy loads. This lowers the seat and raises the handlebars.

    I use my Surly Cross Check as I think you're wanting to do. What I did was cut the fork tube as little as possible and put spacers in to fill up the gap. Right now I have 60 mm of spacers under the stem and 25 mm above the stem. With my leg length that gives me 60mm of handlebar drop. In a couple of minutes I can change the height of the handlebars by moving spacers. I'd recomend whatever you buy get it with an uncut fork tube. Have the LBS cut it just enough to get the spacers in. As you get used to a dropbar you can slowly lower the handlebars by moving spacers above the stem. When you decide that the height is correct then you can have the excess cut off.

  16. #16
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    Quote Originally Posted by FrenchFit View Post
    I guess the Crux has knocked the TriCross into the Specialized "freeride" category, the Crux being the serious cross racer now. I own a TriCross, great bike that I built up from the frame, Ultegra, DA and some 105. I used to have Fuji CrossComp and like the TriCross frame much better.

    So, for my dollars I'd look at the new TriCross, and upgrade where I felt necessary. The TriCross now comes in both a steel and AL frame, 4 of the 6 models with discs. pretty tempting. I have two wheelsets for mine, one 36h with 28 Gatorskins for loaded touring, one 24/20h with 25 GP4000s - it's a do everything package.

    Frankly, if you not cx racing, why would you want a serious racer?
    I really like the looks of this bike at first glance, going to do some research on it.
    http://www.specialized.com/us/en/bik...sctriple#specs
    2013 Trek Ion CX Pro & 2013 Specialized Carve Comp
    2010 Trek Navigator 3.0

  17. #17
    Senior Member GeneO's Avatar
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    The maximum recommended weight (structural weight) for the Tricross Elite steel is 275 lbs. I don't think you will find many specialized bikes, except for their mountian bikes, that have a 300+ limit. I would look elsewhere.
    2012 Felt F55X

  18. #18
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    Quote Originally Posted by GeneO View Post
    The maximum recommended weight (structural weight) for the Tricross Elite steel is 275 lbs. I don't think you will find many specialized bikes, except for their mountian bikes, that have a 300+ limit. I would look elsewhere.
    I have thought about this, but I can't help but wonder if a 275 lb rider can use this bike to jump from a curb, than would a 300 lb rider do any damage to it just riding it on roads?

    I know the bikes have to be rated conservatively, and for their intended usage.
    2013 Trek Ion CX Pro & 2013 Specialized Carve Comp
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  19. #19
    Senior Member Breathegood's Avatar
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    The Raleigh Roper would be a good choice in your price range. I would think the steel frame would be up to the task of supporting a 300 pounder. Slightly more relaxed than a more race oriented bike with accomodations for rack and fenders. Disc brakes may not be necessary, but if you can find a bike in your price range that is spec'd with them, that would be my choice. If there isn't a shop that carries Raleigh in your neighborhood, REI is a Raleigh dealer. You can order on line or check it out in one of their stores.

    http://www.raleighusa.com/bikes/stee...ross/roper-13/
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  20. #20
    Senior Member GeneO's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by dkyser View Post
    I have thought about this, but I can't help but wonder if a 275 lb rider can use this bike to jump from a curb, than would a 300 lb rider do any damage to it just riding it on roads?

    I know the bikes have to be rated conservatively, and for their intended usage.
    Yes I am sure there is some margin in there of course - and I am sure that margin varies across brands. But I wouldn't risk my safety being 25lbs over (not including equipment and baggage). I would shop around a little more. Anyhow, good luck!
    Last edited by GeneO; 04-08-13 at 04:24 PM.
    2012 Felt F55X

  21. #21
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    Quote Originally Posted by Breathegood View Post
    The Raleigh Roper would be a good choice in your price range. I would think the steel frame would be up to the task of supporting a 300 pounder. Slightly more relaxed than a more race oriented bike with accomodations for rack and fenders. Disc brakes may not be necessary, but if you can find a bike in your price range that is spec'd with them, that would be my choice. If there isn't a shop that carries Raleigh in your neighborhood, REI is a Raleigh dealer. You can order on line or check it out in one of their stores.

    http://www.raleighusa.com/bikes/stee...ross/roper-13/
    There actually is a local dealer that carries Raleigh, is that a good brand? I know this will not be my last bike I buy, but I need something that I can ride on the road better than my navigator. I am finally in good enough shape to start putting some miles on.
    2013 Trek Ion CX Pro & 2013 Specialized Carve Comp
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  22. #22
    Senior Member Breathegood's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by dkyser View Post
    There actually is a local dealer that carries Raleigh, is that a good brand? I know this will not be my last bike I buy, but I need something that I can ride on the road better than my navigator. I am finally in good enough shape to start putting some miles on.
    I'm pretty happy with both of my Raleigh bikes. My Twin Six is the best bike I've ever owned, and the Team bike is not far behind. Raleigh is an English brand that has been in the bike building business for a long time. They have had their good years and bad like any brand, but the stuff they've been putting out the last few years is pretty top notch. IMO, you get the same (or better) quality as some of the more popular brands without paying quite as much of a premium for the brand name.

    My only critcism I have of the Roper/Furley is that it is a heavy frame. It's bomb proof and affordable, but you'll burn a few extra calories over a lighter bike.
    1991 Trek 8700 - SS conversion - 'round towner
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  23. #23
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    I have actually decided to go with the Trek Ion CX, not sure if will be the CX or CX Pro, the local dealer has given me a great price.

    I know I can get a similar bike for less, but the dealers are well over an hour away, and this one is 15 minutes away.
    2013 Trek Ion CX Pro & 2013 Specialized Carve Comp
    2010 Trek Navigator 3.0

  24. #24
    Senior Member Breathegood's Avatar
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    If you aren't into doing your own maintainence and adjustments, you definately made the right choice. Not that I think the Trek is necessarily the a better bike, but establishing a relationship with the local dealer is definately a good thing. You will get support when you need it.
    1991 Trek 8700 - SS conversion - 'round towner
    2009 Gary Fisher "Kaitai" - heavy commuter
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    2012 Raleigh Twin Six - Belt drive, IGH, CX
    1993 Scott Santa Fe - dedicated basement trainer

  25. #25
    Senior Member GeneO's Avatar
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    Looks good. Unless you are going to race, you won't get anything useful from the extra cost of the Pro.
    2012 Felt F55X

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