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Old 05-23-13, 03:27 PM   #1
TheManSuit
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Rehashing: NASHBAR X Cross Frame

Seen quit a bit of buzz about this frame over the forums, and it's a relief (if you can call that) to see I'm not the only one shocked by minimal clearance with the chainstays - I took my build up to the LBS three months ago when I bought the frame and the mechanic was pretty amazed by it all, which was refreshing seeing as I was driving myself crazy over it.

Currently using a Shimano 5700 bb (I believe it's 108mm - says BC1.37x24 on the side, anyone help a brother out?) with 172.5 Shimano 105 Hollowtech II cranks (48/38) and A LOT (four) of shims on both (yes, both...two per-) sides of the BB cups. It was the only way I could manage to get the crank arms to clear the chainstays. I don't see anything wrong with doing so, but I've heard a lot of "no-no's" about putting shims on the non-DS.

So, anyway, to make a long story short, the fixing bolt on the Hollowtech cranks must have not been tight enough and the crank arm fell off (non-DS, of course). I got a new fixing bolt and reattached the arm, with success, though now there is an unsettling "clickclick" every time I bear down on the crank.

I feel that this is a result from the abundance of shims, as well as tension being placed on splines that may have been damaged when the crank arm fell off. Due to this, I feel unsafe taking my bike anywhere except for the 3 mile flatland trip to work and back.

So, after reading thru these forums regarding the chainstay issue on this Nashbar X Cross frames, I went ahead and bought a Nashbar ISIS bb @ 113mm and a Nashbar CR2 compact crank @ 170mm. With four 1mm shims on either side, that makes my bb length at about 112mm, so the 113mm seems to be a good choice, and I'm bound to have good clearance with a 170mm crank as opposed to the complications experienced w/ the 172.5mm that people had been having minor success with here on the forums.

I just want to get some second opinions about whether or not this is a terrible idea and if anyone else has tried something similar with success/failure?

Thanks y'all.



PS - Want to remind ya that this is simply my beater/commuter set up. I have no intention of racing or engaging in any super-strenuous riding. What is most important to me is whether or not IT WORKS, as opposed to "proper fit," which I feel is relative in most circumstances. Thanks again!
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Old 05-23-13, 07:24 PM   #2
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Rather than blind guesses , take it in, have the LBS give it a Look.
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Old 05-23-13, 10:03 PM   #3
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It was the LBS mechanic who referred me to the original set up that I have now. He sold me the Hollowtech Cranks as well as the BB spacers. And as far as guessing goes, I'd say it's at least an educated guess on my behalf.
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Old 05-24-13, 05:39 AM   #4
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I'd post this to the mechanics forum, which gets a lot more traffic. For myself, I stay away from cranks and BBs because of all the different standards, special tools, etc.
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Old 05-24-13, 12:04 PM   #5
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I'd post this to the mechanics forum, which gets a lot more traffic. For myself, I stay away from cranks and BBs because of all the different standards, special tools, etc.

That sounds like solid advice. Thanks, flargle.
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Old 06-14-13, 09:21 AM   #6
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I have this frame.

Fits an HT2 road triple perfectly.

A double required a 2mm shim on one side.

This is with the (somewhat standard) Shimano outboard bearing systems.
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Old 06-14-13, 09:40 AM   #7
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I wouldn't add shims to a Hollowtech Crankset. Find yourself a new bike shop.
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Old 06-14-13, 10:01 AM   #8
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I wouldn't add shims to a Hollowtech Crankset. Find yourself a new bike shop.
Up to one 2mm shim won't hurt anything on a road BB.

Their MTB BBs use a series of shims to space, depending on bike setup.

On my Nashbar frame, the triple fits fine without, and the double needed just one so that the right crankarm didn't clip the chainstay whilst pedaling.
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Old 06-14-13, 10:07 AM   #9
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Up to one 2mm shim won't hurt anything on a road BB.

Their MTB BBs use a series of shims to space, depending on bike setup.

On my Nashbar frame, the triple fits fine without, and the double needed just one so that the right crankarm didn't clip the chainstay whilst pedaling.
If adding shims is not an issue, then why did the OPs crankset arm fall off?

Consider that a standing cyclist might go down hard when a crank arm fails, (and crankarms often fail while standing on the pedals) I don't know why anyone would recommend anything but the factory build recommendations.
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Old 06-14-13, 10:12 AM   #10
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If adding shims is not an issue, then why did the OPs crankset arm fall off?

Consider that a standing cyclist might go down hard when a crank arm fails, (and crankarms often fail while standing on the pedals) I don't know why anyone would recommend anything but the factory build recommendations.
Probably because he was running - according to him - two shims per side.

I would never recommend that. I was chiming in to say that on my Nashbar X frame (older 135mm spaced no less!) that a road triple clears perfectly with NO shims, and a road double with a single shim. I run the triple now; not because I'm averse to the shim, but because this bike is my primary hauler as well, to include my 5 yr old daughter in her trailer. Yeah, that "granny-gear" gets a workout.
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Old 06-14-13, 10:32 AM   #11
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Probably because he was running - according to him - two shims per side.

I would never recommend that. I was chiming in to say that on my Nashbar X frame (older 135mm spaced no less!) that a road triple clears perfectly with NO shims, and a road double with a single shim. I run the triple now; not because I'm averse to the shim, but because this bike is my primary hauler as well, to include my 5 yr old daughter in her trailer. Yeah, that "granny-gear" gets a workout.
Yes, I could see a skilled installer putting a single shim on his own bike with good results. However, a bike shop should not vary from the Factory recommendations with a customer's bike.
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Old 06-15-13, 04:30 AM   #12
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If this frame was originally made for a MTB triple, as many suggested, why not use a triple BB?
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